mad082

after i had my remapped ecu on i borrowed a mates wideband o2 sensor and tested out my afr's. at around 3000rpm it goes up to 12.5 for about 500rpm then drops to 12 till about 5000rpm where it slowly drops down to 11.4 at redline. that was at 11psi as the boost controller was playing up and wouldn't let me go higher. cruise is about 14.5-14.7 when i get a chance i am going to test it at 14psi and see what the afrs are like.

the price of fuel where i am hasn't really changed in a while. 118.9 cents a litre for bp ultimate.

they probably don't actually make the plate until final payment.

yep as everyone said, has to be secured. my mate got pulled over by the hoon squad. the booked him for a few things (like bov and cutting the front bar), and after they had gone over the car he asked them what exactly the law was on pods in qld. the cop said as long as it is secure its fine. on a side note, i used to be on the magna forum, and some guys on there were putting chicken wire under the motor to catch the pod if it fell off. now i've run a pod on a few of the cars i've owned, and i've never even had one come loose, let alone all the way off.

i run 14psi on the stock turbo. when i go back to 10 it feels so slow. and yes i know the turbo won't last long.

^^^ what he said

the first skyline i ever drove had really blue bulbs as the high beam (i mean really blue). they were a pain to drive with on and low beam was as bright and much easier on the eyes. the blue were really hard to see with. it was like looking through blue glasses at dusk.

what was the smell of the smoke like? if the headgasket is gone it can leak water into the head. pull all the spark plugs out and look for signs of water in the cylinder and on the spark plugs.

the other thing is if it has a code in a chip inside that tag that can be read by a special scanner, like what they put in pets.

i'm not sure about skylines, but i know people with 180sx's that don't use them.

i'd try another repco store. i live in a small town and they had the part numbers for my r33 gtst on the computer.

i have a remapped ecu in my 33 and a non remapped ecu that was in the car when i got it. not many people remap the r33 ecu as it uses different chips to the r32. there are a few places doing it, but i'm not sure who. i think there is a place in brisbane who do it, as my mate apparently had his r33 ecu done down there.

the hks ssqv also make the high pitch noise at full noise, and flutter at low throttle. or if you just get any good after market bov and tighten the tension spring as tight as it can go you will get some flutter.

i'd be finding out how the boost was raised if a controller wasn't used. they may have used a restrictor in the line and this may have moved so it is letting more air past.

i'm pretty sure the turbos off a rb26 are smaller than the turbo the rb25. unless it is an aftermarket turbo. the stock rb25 is a t3 flange. not sure on the rb26. t28 flange?

they use your standard wiring harness. they have the same plug as the stock unit, so you just unplug the stock unit, and plug in the pfc.

if your plugs are in good condition you shouldn't have much of an issue with it stalling at lights. you will still have a drop in revs, but it shouldn't stall.

does the catch can plumbing still have the pipe that goes to just after the afm? i have seen this pipe removed when people have installed catch cans so the motor is getting unmetered air. if the new setup has a filter on the side that is sucking atmo air, not air from after the afm, then i'd say that is the problem.

i agree with you about the fact that this problem may be completely different to someone elses, but i don't think it is a waste of time guessing. if you can sort the problem out without spending money then you are ahead. if all else fails then take it to a professional.

adding a bigger fuel pump shouldn't affect the AFR's unless the stock pump was dying. the fuel pressure reg makes it so no more fuel enters the system. having the tune a bit richer up top is good. it cools the exhaust gas temperature, which is good for people running the stock turbo as it prevents the turbo dying so soon. sure you may not have the top end power of someone with a leaner tune up top, but you are running a safer tune, and the turbo will last a touch longer.

i'd say your themostat is dead (not closing properly so it is still letting coolant flow). you should have it sit at half way at normal operating temp.

its not exactly cheap. can easily set you back $600 in labour. i'd say that is the worse case cenario for the reason it is hard to start.

could possibly be that the turbo has started to let go, but that would generally make a rattle as well. it could be that however they raised the boost has let go and you have a big boost leak.

the aac is at the back of the intake plenum. its at the top. that doesn't control the cold start function though. the iac is under the plenum below the aac. much harder to get to. also i would recommend not using iridium plugs. they don't seem to last any longer or perform any better. they just cost more. i pulled a set of iridiums out of 180sx the other day that were dead after about 7000ks. the coppers i've had in my car are still running fine after 5000ks. i'm going to replace them at the next oil change in a few weeks time, but you can buy a full set of coppers for about the price of 1 iridium plug, and they last nearly as long.

the only accurate way to compare timeslips from the track is to have the same person drive both cars. in a way they are like dyno readouts. 1 person may be a crap driver, but have more power and better tyres, suspension, etc, but still run a slower time at a slower speed than someone who can driver really well.