mad082

180's are a lighter car than a skyline, and it also comes down to who gets a better launch, etc.

fuel pump won't increase power output at all.

your engine might be getting rather tired, or the dyno you went on under read to some extent (170kw is pretty low for those mods) and his over read to some extent. for those mods i'd say about 190kw would be pretty accurate. remember that he does have a gutted cat.

this is a very out there thought, but it may be a dribbly injector that is letting a tiny amount of fuel into the cylinder when the car is off. another out there possibility is that it may be that you have a head gasket on its way out and water is getting into the cylinders.

i think the thermo stat is about 82 degrees.

i was fiddling round with mine last night and discovered that, as west said, it isn't controlled by the aircon. there is a temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator that controls the fan. however i couldn't get it to come on. the other night i started the car, had it running for about 2 mins, tested the plug and it had power, then the power went off, then it came back on. last night i got the car hot, i took it for a drive, i sat there reving it, but could not get the switch to work. i had the clutch fan roaring its arse off, but couldn't get the switch to change. its really giving me the shits. does anyone know what temp the switch should activate at? i think my switch is either dead, or caked in crap and not getting a reading.

i'd say he couldn't use his computer properly. all they have to do is open a recent ngk catalogue and it has the part listed. i have seen it with my own 2 eyes.

i have seen one of the coolers up close. not that good, and they don't flow that well. they are a bit restrictive once you start to raise the boost. also the bovs are absolute crap. i know a few guys that have them fitted to their cars (not by them) and they are very slow releasing.

just had a look at my filter. its a z200.

you want tight to stop it stalling at idle, and loose at high rpm to release the air quicker. so you need to have someone sit under the bonnet with a spanner while you drive around.

the harness is $200. i'm looking at getting one when the bank balance allows it. i'm going to get the ultimate (since it comes with the tuning software, and allows you to remove the afm by adding the map sensor from a profec b)

the emanage is a bit more, but you can get a straight plug and play harness (costs $200 though). i'm yet to find out for sure but i think the plug and play harness allows you to do both fuel and timing. and it saves you stuffing round with splicing wires. i'm looking at getting an emange ultimate when the bank balance lets me. i have a manual and want to be different, and aren't much of a fan of the pfc, (for no real reason). the emanage ultimate allows you to remove the air flow meter, and basically does the same job as the pfc, but retains the drivability of a stock ecu, and is good for auto's.

either bcpr6es or bkr6es (not 100% sure about the s on the last one, but i have a set sitting on the back seat of the car) they are the copper plugs, should be gapped standard at 0.8mm, heat range of 6. the bkr ones are the V groove version of the bcpr's.

i thought 1 16" fan pumped more air than 2 12's. the advantage of thermos is that they run faster at idle than a clutch fan, but the clutch fan gets faster with revs. i'm just waiting for my 12" thermo to turn up to run as an aircon fan (since it currently doesn't have one). this will be used with the stock clutch fan.

running no bov is only good if you are changing quickly. if you are boosting up a fair bit but don't change quickly you will find a bit more lag than a stock bov as the air has had time to slow the compressor down. on my old 180 i went for the stock bov to a gfb basic bov, and it made a huge difference on gearchanges. there was a lot less lag on changes. skylines runa much better bov standard. if you block off the recirulation hole in the stock bov, and your bov isn't that healthy, you may find your boost bleeds off a bit more at high rpm. mine would bleed off about 1 psi more with the hole blocked. i put this down to the spring tension not being enough, and the vacuum created in the plumback pipe was sucking the bov open.

check base the timing, clean the idle air control (thats the hard to get to one), get the battery tested, and possibly check the water temp sensor voltages, and possibly try someone elses crank angle sensor.

you wouldn't think so but it does. some of the k&n filters make no sucking noise, but you can still hear the bov. my mate had a k&n filter that is bigger at the top than where it goes onto the afm and it made no induction noise. then he changed to a different filter and it did. i had the same filter on my old 180sx and it didn't make any induction noise either.

if you run a pod filter the stock 1 will make a fair bit of noise.

the blue vision bulbs that i had in the missus pulsar (before the bulbs i have in there now) still work, and i had them in the pulsar for about 18 months, and in my commodore before that for about 18months.

where did you buy it from? my ryco one cost me about $7

13Lt/100k's is pretty good, unless you are only doing highway driving. but if it is driving to work, an you sit in traffic a little bit, then that is pretty good. as for the sensor, they are the same as a n15 SSS pulsar. about $110 for a direct fit NGK one from autobarn or repco.

actually, they should be able to look in the back of the book and compare other brand models to see what they are in ryco. tell them its a valvoline vf6, or v06. the filter on the car when i got it was 1 of those. more likely the vf6, but i can't remember for sure.

i think it was the z201 that i got.

i must've been flagged a few times to the ato. i've sold a few cars and had people pay in cash each time. and i usually pay cash for my cars since i usually go to look at them and buy them on weekends. on a side note, my mate's old man died a year ago, and my mate got a fair bit of inheritence money (his father was a fireman, so had a pretty good superanuation fund) and he went into the bank one day, and some young teller started accusing him of being a drug dealer, and asking how come he had over $100,000 in the bank at the age of 21. if the teller had actually had a look at the transfer details he would've seen that the transfer had come from a solicitors account. so my mate got him to call the bank manager and got the teller into all sorts of shit. and i'm not aware of too many drug dealers that keep their money in bank accounts. it leaves a paper trail. there was a drug bust in town where they confiscated a car. packed under the dash was $150,000 in $50 notes.

they aren't legal. the phillips blue vision are the whitest/bluest legal bulbs they make. the diamond and crystal vision don't meet adr specifications, so if you have a crash at night your insurance company can blame it on that and try to get out of paying. i use blue vision in my r33, and gt150's in the missus pulsar. the yellower the bulb, the more light you get. the more blue, the less light they put out. just have a look in the phillips catalogue. it tells you how they compare to a standard bulb for light emitted. i'm not 100% sure on this, but the think the bluest legal colour for a bulb (non HID) is 4000k. and i don't think the mtec ones have been adr tested so they probably aren't legen even if they are in the legal colour spectrum.