mad082

i looked it up in the ryco book at my local autobarn. they had it listed in there. but they had 2 different ones listed. i can't remember the number of it though. i think it was the bigger of the 2, and i may have had a 90 degree bend in 1 of the hoses. you want the straight through one.

when did it start doing this? was it when you were bleadding the system? if not, then it may be a broken pivot bolt, or clutch fork, or the bracket in the cabin.

i'm pretty sure s13 silvias are a 3.9-1

how old are your spark plugs? if they are getting old (or fouled) it will be slightly harder to start.

R&R can happen anywhere from 10psi up to 13psi. on warmer days i could run 13psi on mine, but then if it was a cold morning i would hit it.

ok. i started mine from cold (not completely cold, but had been sitting for a few hours) and it was a few mins before mine came on. i had my test light wedged into the clip, and earthed, and i had time to check the water temp sender resistance, and fiddle with a few other things before it came on.

another mate of mine had one of the k&n's on his 33. then he changed to a different 1 and it started making the sound.

how long did you wait?

if i did mine every 3000k's that would be after only putting through 500L. seems kind of a waste. if you used a handfull of gravel as octane boost then i could understand changing it as often as your oil. to see how little fuel that is, a common fridge is about about 450L. so if you had a tank the size of your fridge you would be changing it after only putting through that small amount of fuel.

you should be able to get a barrel to fit the same key, but that would probably mean ordering a new barrel from nissan, or having a locksmith alter the barrel you have sourced. it may end up cheaper to buy the new barrel. find a locksmith and ask them, or ring nissan. you will probably need your key number from in behind the drivers door trim.

i'd say the fog lights were wired in a bit dodgey. probably a loose connection on the relay (if one was used).

i had a k&n pod filter that was like that. it was the one that is the opposite shape to most pods. you could still hear the stock bov on gear changes, but no induction noise.

any big brand stuff is usually ok. i used the nulon stuff in my last flush.

rb25 actuator is 5psi.

the small tee is still available. Note: it is white not black.

sold, pending payment

remove pfc, install stock ecu, drive to place that is going to tune pfc, reinstall pfc, get it tuned, drive home happy.

it could be the cable. where does the sound come from? passenger side of the dash, centre, or drivers side?

i was checking my plug last night (as i am getting a fan since the fan was never replaced by a previous owner who had crashed the car). i had the aircon on, and it took a while for the plug to get power, then if i turned the aircon off it would keep power for a few seconds before turning off. then when you turned the aircon back on it wouldn't come straight back on. it took a little bit to come on. it isn't just controlled by the aircon, but the temp sensor as well.

i am going to have a look in the missus owners manual for her SSS pulsar tonight. then we can find out what nissan recommends on their cars.

so the light saying that it is on comes on when the button hasn't been pushed, but not when it has been? i'd say faulty switch, or short in the wiring.

sounds like something is making the gears sticky, or blocking it, or the gears are slightly stripped. the clicking would be as it tries to change and it is just skipping the gears as it can't move them.

i was looking round the engine bay and saw the split hose. just lucky.

can you please re-write that in english, or sober up then re-write.

pics please.