mad082

Try tightening it a bit more and see if it stops squealing. Also try spinning the alternator and water pump by hand to make sure one of them isn't siezed

Generally not. The highest setting will still usually be lower than stock. And a car with a bodykit but massive gaps between the wheels and guards generally look a bit silly.

It should sit about half way, but every gauge will vary slightly. If the car comes up to temp within about 5 mins of driving then everything is most likely ok. The gauge should also remain stable when warm. If the gauge goes higher when sitting in traffic then you have an issue (most likely need a new thermostat)

Should be fine.

if it just has cut springs, then get a set of standard springs put in. but if the kit is much lower than the stock bumpers then it will probably still scrape as you may not raise the car enough

firstly, there is no such thing as a HR33 gtst, they are ECR33. HR33 is a gts running the rb20E, so if yours has HR33 in the VIN then it isn't actually a gtst, so it won't have some of the better gear that the gtst got (better brakes, etc) unless they have been fitted by a previous owner. but enough of me being picky. the stock injectors are 370cc. you should look at getting at least 550cc injectors. if you want to d oit cheap, you could get some second hand s15 injectors. they will fit in and are bigger than the stock injectors at 444cc or 480cc (can't remember which). this will obviously require a retune of sorts. sometimes you can simply alter the injector size in the settings (depends on the ecu), but it's always worth getting a proper tune done just to be on the safe side. what ecu is the car running?

there is something you can adjust inside the door that alters the positioning of the window

if you have one of those air fuel gauges that works off the stock o2 sensor, then at light throttle the lights should flicker between rich and lean. when you floor it it should go full rich, and when you lift off and decellerate it should go full lean (possibly even off the scale). when the o2 sensor stops working it should sit in the rich side of the scale regardless of what amount of throttle you are using. if you are driving along and it is suddenly altering the output then it may be an issue with the loom, or possibly another issue. it might be worth checking the fault codes

when they showed the car in the pre-race coverage, the drivers seat is pretty far back compared to the fords/holdens, but while the steering wheel does come back a long way, race cars do have the wheel very close to the seat, which isn't too far behind the B pillar. not to mention the seats being more inboard than on a road car, which also helps a bit. but my guess is that they will use some sort of flipping or removable wheel, like some teams already use, if that is in fact the final drivers position

as has been said, it's all about fitting the work into their schedule. if it was actually going to take 10 days to do the work, it would be costing you thousands of dollars in labour alone.

the tune should be fine

maybe he bought a dodgem car business.....

If you are talking about the vaccum hose, then silicone and try a spring type clamp. If you are talking about the exhaust gas side if things, then this is going to get real funny, real fast.

Turbo timers are illegal because it is illegal to leave a car running whilst not in it. This makes sense as it isn't safe having a locked car running, because if it was to somehow get knocked into gear it would just drive off. It is also safer to have a car parked both in gear and with the handbrake on. Turbo timers being illegal was never about spoiling import owners fun.

Also be worth buying a boost gauge

Was it only after the engine transplant? does the brake booster have a vaccum line going to it? A hard pedal sounds a bit like a booster problem. If you pump the pedal when the car is not running and it feels the same as when it's running then it's definitely a booster issue. to get an idea of what sort if change you should feel, try it in someone elses car. When you pump the brakes with the car off, the should go hard after the second pump or so.

Every few months i give my bike an overhaul. I pull it to bits, lube everything up and put it back together. Fresh grease in the bearings, etc. new bearings if any feel a bit dodgy. Things like chains, grips, tyres, etc, i just do as needed.

it could've been going brown from the build up that was already in the cooling system

BA

Having tyres that delaminate is safer than having higher speeds. One is only a drama at the end of the tyres life, the other means that if something goes wrong at a higher speed, there is more chance of injury or death.

Every country gets double taxed on stuff. Our tax rate is relatively low overall. Our prices of goods are low when put into perspective. The reason why or prices are higher compared to other countries is because our minimum wage is so much higher. We will never be able to truly compete with other countries unless the whole Australian population takes a pay cut, but that won't get us anywhere as it would still require the same amount of hours worked to pay for stuff. The high wages in Australia are the only reason why stuff from overseas is cheap compared to local prices. But that is also the reason why companies are either moving overseas or sourcing labour from overseas. Australian workers are pricing themselves out if the market. But when the same workers buy products from overseas, they are reducing profits of local business and taxes paid, which will eventually lead to a rise in unemployment, but the government will have less money to pay unemployment benefits. So it's only fair that the government get a share of the money it's missing out on. Also, plenty of the people who complain about this sort of thing will also be ones who complain about companies closing or moving operations overseas, yet they are part of the cause.

Do a bit if searching on the forum, it's been talked about plenty if times. And as for temp issues, no there is no temp issues running just water. As said by someone else, the increased pressure in the system raises the boiling point. Generally cars run about 1 bar of pressue in the system, meaning the boiling point if water is over 120 degrees. . The majority of coolants are only corrosion inhibitiors, and sometimes anti-freeze. You can still boil the coolant at about 100 degrees if you have a faulty cap.

Could be a few things. Could be an injector issue or a spark issue or an afm issue. Start by geting an old spark plug (if you have one kicking around) and unplugging one of the coils, plug in the spare plug, make sure it's earthing in the motor and have someone try and start the car. If you can see the spark plug sparking, then it's most likely not a spark issue.. also listen for the sound of the injectors ticking. You could do this before checking for spark. No injector tick and no spark would both lean towards a dodgy crank sngle sensor.

Just because cops pulled you over and didn't book you doesn't mean that it's legal. for example, i once got pulled over with bald tyres and didn't get booked.

if you give it the beans on a regular basis, go the 7's, if you do a lot of driving around town, sitting in traffic and don't give it the beans very often, go with 6's. the 7's are a colder plug than the 6's, so they are a bit more prone to fouling.