mad082

when you say the smaller bit of pipe and the bigger bit of pipe, where are you talking about? if it is on the pipe between the afm and the turbo, and there is 2 little bits of pipe coming off the side, 1 is for the plumback and 1 is for the rocker cover ventilation.

do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? the "boost cut" isn't a boost cut. it isn't determined by boost pressure but by airflow. if it got to 14psi then it could be that it has a 14psi wastegate on the new turbo. if it is still the stock wastegate and you have an aftermarket gauge then i'd say there is something blocking it slightly. but it is more than likely aftermarket ecu time. BTW, if you don't have an aftermarket gauge, but have a bigger turbo you are an idiot.

good theory. 1 problem. strut braces are illegal in some states too. so if you are worried about the controller and have a strut brace, i'd pull the brace off too.

should be legal if it is plumback.

how much of the stock plumback pipe was removed? the whole think or just the rubber hose?

it is to do with the controller. i had the same problem. it isn't releasing the air between the controller and the wastegate, so the wastegate is staying stuck open. solution, change to a turbotech $22 boost controller.

i have a stock bov running 14psi.

i think it would work well too. think of all the air that goes through the radiator. you have a fan drawing plenty of air through, even at low speed.

i'm not sure of the inside diameter. maybe about 3mm? but anyway, no more typing, start stretching that hose over your foot, LOL.

does it have a turbo on it?

if you remove the drivers side door panel there should be the key number in there, or so i was told by a locksmith, but i haven't got around to looking.

if there is something that could possibly be putting pressure on the boot, i'd go for a quick lap around the block doing some hard stopping and swerving to see if that helps.

it doesn't need to be a high flowing unit as it is only supplying a pressure reading, not letting huge amounts of air out of the system. and i want to see pics of the vacuum hose on your foot!

try new plugs in. when i first got my 33 it was stock (except for the front pipe). when i backed off after a quick squirt it would bog down, and if i did it then put the clutch in and idled to a stop it would stall. i put new plugs in and it solved the problem.

yeah that should do. as long as you can get it onto the bleeder.

dyno tune won't change a thing as the stock can't be altered without a remap. the problem could be that you either have a bad boost leak (check intercooler piping), the afm is stuffed, or the turbo is stuffed.

i doesn't need to be replaced with stuff with thread in it. vacuum line will do.

hehehe. can probably do that up here too. i know plenty of people up here that have been pulled over with them, had the cops go all over the car, book them for things like cut front bars, steering wheel too small, etc, but not boost controllers.

i have one and it works fine. it is an upgrade on the stock one. it all depends on whether you already have an upgraded front pipe or not. if you do then get one of them. if you still only have a stock front pipe then get a full dump/front pipe. my car already had a 80mm front pipe when i got it. and i didn't really want to spend hundreds of dollars replacing something that worked fine. the other option you have is to cut the wastegate part of the pipe where it goes back into the dump pipe, cover the hole, then add some pipe on to the end of the wastegate pipe, drill a hole in the front pipe and have it plumb back into it.

if you still have the stock airbox then make a little bracket that holds it under that. also depends on what state you are in as to whether you need to bother doing this or not.

i'm not sure of there being 3 screws. i know my series 1 has 2. 1 for the headlights and 1 for the high beam.

as 2gu up said, tail shaft runs front to back, drive shafts run sideways. this is both on front wheel drive and rear wheel drive. but on rear wheel drive it is usually only on cars that have irs. cars with a normal diff just have axles inside the diff.

i had to help solve a problem like this in a 180sx on saturday. we tried pulling the switch out and it was working ok. we were getting power to the bulb but it would work. then we made a new earth for it and it worked. the standard earth was crappy and wasn't letting enough power out to let the light turn on.

could just be a blown bulb. i had a 180sx that only had half of the lights in the buttons work. i'd just make a trip to a wreckers and get some more. if they are the ones in the little holder then don't go to nissan. they want about $30 each. i got 8 bulbs and a gear knob from the wreckers for $5.

there is no way the clutch can affect the throttle cable. i'd say that the cable is either squashed from the install of the clutch, starting to fray inside the casing, or just got some gunk making it sticky. and you shouldn't have to give it more gas to accelerate. you may have to give it more gas to launch the car as the heavier clutch won't slip as much, resulting in bogging it down, but once you are going there is no difference. and a heavier clutch doesn't really weigh any more than a stock clutch. it just has stiffer springs. it will weigh a fraction more due to the extra material needed to get the stiffer springs, but it is a tiny amount. when they talk about the weights of clutches they mean the clamp weight. how hard the pressure plate pushes the clutch plate against the flywheel.