mad082

i also agree that the picture of the manual wrxhoon posted up shows it pointing to the windscreen not the mirror. it may however also work the heaters in the mirrors as well as the windscreen. now wrxhoon you can go and get all cranky and post up what i posted as possible uses for the button, but i don't much care. if you do then it just shows that you need to follow choppers advice and "harden the fcuk up!"

i thought the non neo motors were easier to get power out of since they didn't have as much pollution crap done to them. also thought the neo had a head that didn't flow as well (not sure if it was to do with cams, valves or general design), and smaller injectors. but i may be wrong.

and i think there is also a good possibility that jmac is right too.

looks like either a rear wiper switch or a rear demister switch, but i don't know much about 34 interiors either.

you'd be better off trying to do a 12 second pass in june. it is much colder so you will have more power.

there should be a tension screw. tighten it. or buy some pigeons.

i just discovered that you were on this forum as well as bc.

then kick him to the curb. then you won't have to waste money buying presents that he doesn't need. as for turbo timers, if you thrash the car then just pull up, you make think that you are doing good by leaving the timer on, but there is little air going through the radiator, the brakes are sitting in the 1 spot, putting all their heat into the 1 spot. you are best off doing a lap around the block driving normally so that cool air goes through the radiator, and the brakes can cool down.

it might be torquier if you compare it to say... a push bike. if it is going into a s13 then i'd say the rb25. less fabrication will be required, but the motor probably will cost more.

i'd check that the wastegate isn't slightly grabbing on the dump pipe which is making it sticky and open later. also i'd borrow someone elses gauge to make sure that your gauge isn't faulty. and also get a nipple put into the cooler piping.

i wish mine kept traction in first. anything over about 70% throttle in in first is useless, but i need new rear tyres.

it all comes down to tyre quality. i've had tyres that you could fry but snapping 3rd (in a magna) and then put better tyres on that would only just chirp second.

just wind the controller all the way in. these work differently to the $22 controller. on these all the way in is minimal boost, all the way out is max boost.

only have dial up at home, so i'll post the pics at work on monday.... if i remember the laptop.

my hybrid kit has a bracket to the cam cover and i had to trim the blades. i'd rather trim the blades and know that there is no chance of it hitting than not trim the blades and have a small chance of it hitting.

i have gotten my hands on some alloy (picked it up last night) and am going to start making the box today. will let you know how i go.

the bottom hose (cold one) is where the water goes into the motor. the top (hot) hose is where the water comes out of the head. so the top hose should be hotter than the bottom one. that is why that is where to temp sensor is. so that it reads the hottest temp the water gets to. do you have a fmic? if you do then that won't be helping as it slows a lot of air going through the radiator.

yeah as sewid said, get legal advice. but moral of the story is go shopping for insurance before you buy the car. i had the insurance policy activated from lunchtime of the day i was going to look at the car (didn't go look till after lunch) since the insurance company wasn't open that day. and if i didn't end up buying it i only had to ring up and say i didn't get it.

he may just have been an idiot and just plain didn't see the ute. but i have no sympathy for drink drivers (or drug drivers). my cousin was killed when a drink driver swerved onto the wrong side of the road and hit the ute my cousin was in. i really think they need to get an accurate way to test drivers for drug use. that will stop a fair few accidents i think.

whenever you pressurise anything the temp raises. so when you depressurise something (like letting the air out of a tyre) it cools. that is how a fridge works. a fuel cooler is used in high performance engines because the fuel is running at higher pressures (so its hotter) and they don't want vapourisation.

i have seen it in a manual, but not in an auto.

but since you generally have to run some form of either piggyback or full ecu to run a z32, i don't think that leaning out would be an issue since you have to get it tuned for the afm either way. personally i'd just get an ecu that uses a map sensor.

if you disconnect the o2 sensor it should run richer. mine did. it was leaning out at idle due to a vacuum leak. as soon as i unplugged the o2 sensor it ran richer and idled fine.

waldo did you adjust the pedal under the dash to give you a higher disengage point? otherwise it may be that your clutch fork is bent.

i'd say the gts-t is probably a stronger box, but also much more expensive. my mate was quoted up to $1200 for a box. first i do the oil. something like the redline lightweight shockproof has good reports. others use motul. anything that is fully synthetic is good.