mad082

what about getting a piggyback like that microtech? you can set them up to map above the max of the afm, or remove the afm completely as they have a map sensor. has anyone used this sort of setup on an auto? i have seen it used on manuals, but not auto's (i don't even know anyone with an auto).

would this diy just make it a home made z32 afm?

for similar money you could probably get a second hand safc and get just as good, if not better gains.

do you mean he is going to put a bigger turbo on your car? and everything else kept stock? if that is the case 310hp yes (if the ecu is also changed), 310kw no.

RICER!!!! hehehe i just had a thought (i know, i'm scared too). i think i might use clips to hold the lid on. the same sort of clips as what are used on bonnets. that way it is easier to get to the box.

there is about 5 other threads in here covering this.

or do as is instructed in the hybrid intercooler instructions. trim the back corners off the fan blades. you just have to make sure you use a template so that you take the same amount off each blade.

the template is easy to make. just get some thick carboard, a pen and either scissors or a knife and just keep trimming untill you get the desired shape. take about 5 mins. i think the template is just a touch bigger than an A4 bit of paper, otherwise i would scan it so people could print it.

95 r33 gts-t. 4 broken head studs (replaced all of them) broken pivot bolt in clutch (6 hours lying on the floor under the car, and cost me 90 cents) noisey front wheel bearing noisey throw out bearing had a fan belt starting to come apart few cracked vacuum hoses and for some reason the back tyres don't last anywhere near as long as the front.......... don't know why that could be.......

jrocket, thats about as dirty as i have gotten mine, but mine was on a concrete skid pan, but it went for an accidental excursion off the skidpan through a big (about 8 inches deep) puddle of mud. it cracked my front bar, and i wasn't driving.

you'd be best off doing the dump/front pipe as well. then you would have to run it at stock boost as it would flow more air than the stock one, so if you went higher you may hit rich and retard. other than that it would be fine.

my box will look very similar to the one wogsrus posted, accept a little bit different at the back, and my afm is going to bolt to the box, and just have the adapter bolted on the inside of the box. i think having the afm mounted to the box is a good idea since it is hard mounted in stock form, and so it doesn't rattle around and get damaged.

it couldn't be 15mm. that is way to small (about the size of the average mans thumb nail). but 15cm does sound a bit big.... for an indicator anyway....

when my cooler pipe came off i was still able to drive for another few hundred meters until i could find a place to pull over. but the symptoms are there for a cooler pipe. "it started by then it would just turn off.... and it keep doing it.... it also is blowing out black smoke..."

area of a 2.5" pipe = 31.6cm2 area of a 3" pipe = 45.5cm2 the bigger pipe will flow more air, but since the sensor only reads what goes though the little hole it sits in, then calculates how much air that is for the designated size of the pipe, when you put it into a bigger pipe it throws the calculations out and you end up with leaner mixtures.

the ratio of air going past the sensor to the air going into the turbo will be different.

and i did extensive testing with all sorts of pubic hairs that i found in public toilets.

i'd say alloy is probably better, but i don't have any lying around.

it could be that the pivot bolt in the clutch is broken. a guy i know had the head of the bolt brake off and it was getting harder and harder to shift and that was the cause.

as above, you would need some sort of piggyback or full ecu to adjust the afrs.

and has a hole through the centre. is there any other markings on the system anywhere?

i'm just making one up myself. i'm basing it off the UAS design. going to cost about $20 (actually it won't cost me a thing as i have all the stuff i need sitting around the house). i just got some cardboard, cut a template, then cut the shape needed out of some sheet metal, bend to shape, make some brackets and a lid and get some old firewall heatproofing from the wreckers. sure it will have gaps and not seal 100% but the amount of air coming through the gaps won't make a pubic hair's difference (since the pod sits directly over the hot intercooler pipe anyway). and the heatshielding will stop a lot of the air coming through those gaps, and stop some of the heat coming off the cooler pipe and from the heatshield getting hot from the engine bay. then i just have to expand the hole where the stock cold intercooler pipe came through to about 3" and put a duct from the front bar.

this may sound stupid, but what sort of immobiliser does he have? it may be that it is playing up and isn't letting the car supply fuel or spark.

atmospheric pressure at sea level is 1 bar. all boost gauges read pressure and vacuum above and below that pressure.

i put a wideband o2 sensor on my stock ecu and it ran 11.x-1 on full load, and about 13.x-1 on light load (normal driving). why would you sit longer in the higher gear? if you mean that you are at full throttle but not fully on boost, you are still running richer than you would at less throttle %. if i am driving along and accelerate from 30kmh to 60kmh, then just cruise in 2nd gear, then lean out the mixtures and do the same thing again, the second time i am going to accelerate faster due to having more power, use less fuel due to leaner mixtures, and spend less time at 100% throttle and more time at light throttle. light load at higher rpm uses a lot less fuel than full load at a lower rpm. if you are running 5psi and if you can sit at 5% throttle at 6000rpm (off boost), you are probably going to use less fuel than 3000rpm at 100% throttle (and full boost), as the amount of air going into the motor on each stroke is probably about 10% of what it is at full boost, so about 10% of the fuel is needed to have the same afr. now those figures of 10% may not be accurate, but it would be in the ball park.