mad082

and for that axtra $400-500 + tune you won't get much more power. i know people that made the same power with a pfc as they did with a safc, but gained a touch more mid range. for people with autos they are a good idea as most full ecu replacements cause crappy gear changes. if i had an auto i'd be looking at a greddy emanage ultimate as they can control timing, fuel, and can even have a map sensor added so you can keep mapping even when the afm maxes out. similar price to a pfc, but you retain all the drivability of a stock ecu (cold start, etc)

you just explained you poor fuel economy with the line about the bigger turbo. that adds more air, so the computer adds more fuel to keep the afr's right. if everything is the same and you lean the afrs out from 10- to 12-1 you will get better fuel economy. at X amount of airflow you have taken the ratio from have 10 parts air/1 part fuel to 12 parts air/1 part fuel. now that doesn't mean that 2 parts air have been added, but 0.17 parts of fuel has been removed. now if that was done throughout the rev range (all ratios went from 10-1 to 12-1) that would mean you would get 17% better in fuel economy. now what you said about the engine working overtime is only correct under the right circumstances. that is when you are accelerating up to as fast as you can in a given distance, then slowing down and doing it again (like racing). but then the leaner mixtures and the higher revs would probably work out to be about the same consumption as the richer mixtures and lower revs. in situations where you are just accelerating up to a set speed then the leaner mixtures will get you there quicker, using less fuel, and then you spend more time at lower throttle, so the fuel consumption is less. the richer mixtures still revs up to the same speed, but uses more fuel each times it is firing, and because it has less power and is accelerating slower, it will have to fire more times before it ca cruise.

you are best off going to autobarn/repco and getting some gasket sealant. it doesn't matter so much for the rear section, but where it goes onto the cat is a good idea.

no, but i'm going to when i relocate it in the next few weeks.

yes it does. if you accelerate at half throttle, but still at full boost the throttle body is only half open, so less air is going into the motor than at full throttle. when more air goes in, more fuel is dumped in to keep the AFRs right. if i drive round town accelerating hard all the time i use much more fuel than just driving casually round. the harder you accelerate, the more fuel goes into the motor. you sound like you think that whether at 25% throttle or 100% throttle the same amount of fuel goes into the motor. that isn't true. sure you may have got up to speed in a shorter time by accelerating hard, but you have put more load on the motor, so more fuel goes in. and generally light load mapping is leaner than heavy load, so not only is there less air going into the motor, but the air/fuel ratio is leaner. so should you get to a point where the amount of air going into the motor is the same, the light load mapping will be putting in less fual that the heavy load mapping.

sounds like it may be similar to the early AFC, which controls the signal from the afm to the ecu, so you can adjust the AFRs. but it does it across the whole rev range, so you either lean out or richen up the whole rev range. the new ones let you adjust it at different rpms.

i think they flow a little bit more than the r32 units, so it should be fine. couldn't be any worse.

coke will make it go sticky. so will hair spray.

my first car was a stock ea falcon and i got done by what looked like a set of needle nose pliers. there where 2 small dents and scratches about 1.5 inches apart like someone had tried to stab the bonnet with them. luckily they hadn't dragged them along. i just got some touchup paint and put it on to stop it rusting.

you could use some dry lube. comes in a stick about 4 inches long. it is supposed to be good for stopping belts screeching, but i have never used it.

apparently the r31, or aussie delivered silvias have the same windsreen as 33's so the rubbers should be the same. not sure how it will apply to a 32 though.

i would have to agree, on the simple fact that you are driving across a desert in a car that you aren't familiar with. you don't know if the thermostat or clutch fan is working properly. so you run the risk of cooking it on the way. at 100kmh there would be plenty of air going through the radiator, but it could still get rather hot. and if something breaks you could be stuck in the middle of nowhere.

i agree that it is easy to close by blowing into it, but i have no real concept of how much pressure 1 psi is when blowing my mouth.

at about 120kmh my car sits at about -10 (vacuum) and if i speed up to 130, once i'm there and holding the speed it isn't much different.

the load/pressure required to close the pcv is minimal. it is just a ball and when there is vacuum it is sucked to one end. when there is pressure it is pushed to the other end. i'd say by 1 psi its closed. i can't remember if there is a spring in there, but i'm pretty sure there wasn't.

i have friends that have the turbosmart ones, and i have used the turbosmart dual stage and they bleed off much more boost than these do. and no you won't still have your factory dual stage.

what happened when i had mine setup like that, when i grabbed 4th gear accelerating hard at highway speed, it would jump up to about 14psi for just a second. then i put the nipple off the stock piping into the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and that solved the problem.

would it only do it with the clutch either in or out. it may be that the clutch is noisey (either the springs on the clutch plate or one of the bearings).

firstly you need to check if the sau logo is copyrighted. if it isn't then it is fine to do. otherwise you need to make it visibly different to the sau logo. if you change bits around and change the colour that may be enough to get away with it. i looked into this a bit a while ago when a shop in town opened up selling fake west coast chopper clothing (and i am the authorised dealer in town for it). i went and asked them if it was genuine and they said it was made by someone with a licence to make it. when i rang my supplier they said that the only company with the licence to make them was the company they got them off, as it was part of their contract that they only bought them off the head company. but i did some research into how different things must be to not be causght for counterfiet. it must be easily distinguishable between the fake and the original. and it must be easy to tell which is the fake (like by spelling the name completely different). but you are best off contacting one of the moderators of the forum.

just because you can buy them cheaper doesn't mean that they are shittier. if they are a genuine item and you can get it for half the price of somewhere else then that is just smart buying. if 2 shops are selling the identical item (same brand, model, everything, from the same supplier) and 1 charges $200 and the other $400, is the $400 a better item because it cost more? if it is a non genuine item then that is a different story.

HOLY SMOKES!!!! you have to wonder how much is materials, and how much is paying for that guys next holiday around the world!

there are benefits of leaving that hole unblocked. 1 is that when at WOT there is a small amount of air being released through it back into the intake. this negates a vacuum effect happening which would suck the bov open at higher boost pressure.

where are you located?

any question you ask is stupid justin, hehehe. the handbrake mechanism is in behind the rear rotors. you pull the rotors off to expose them.

i run my stock turbo at 14psi, but i am just wanting to see how long it lasts, and i don't drive it hard very often. its mainly just cruising to work so i don't get past about 3500rpm. i had spiking just after i did my fmic install. i had it running off the hose from the bov. then i put a nipple on the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and it runs fine now.