mad082

i'm looking at putting an electrical water temp gauge in and i'm wondering where to put the sender. do i remove the stock sender and put it in there? or do i have to make something up to mount it in and put that in the hose? if i disconnect the stock one does that stuff up the ecu (make it lose cold start or not control the fan properly)? thanks

i did a bodge up job on my line. cut some rust out and bogged up a scratch/dent and just painted it with paint i got mixed at autobarn. can't even tell it was done. just a day or 2 after it is painted get a buffing pad for the drill, some cut and polish and it will look fine.

your graph doesn't look that bad for a stock ecu. i'd say that is pretty close to what it should make. when i had a SSS pulsar (natro sr20) i put it on the dyno and got a similar readout. graph was a little bit more stagered than that. and got about 2kw less. then my last car before my skyline had a dead smooth curve. no rough spots. the dyno guy said it was one of the smoothest curves he had ever seen. it was a '00 magna with a stock ecu and full exhaust.

should be the same. you may also hear the rattle when putting the windows up and down mine used to do it when i first got the car. after about 2 days of owning the car i did this.

IMHO 20w60 is way to thick. stock oil is 7.5w30. i use 10w40, but am going to be changing to 5w50. my pressure goes to about 7 when cold then drops to just under 4 when hot.

mine used to do both wheels ALL the time. it is getting a bit tired now and only does 1 wheel a bit. i'm going to change the fluid to see if that helps at all.

turbosmart boost controllers are crap. i had a dual stage one for a while then i ditched it for my old turbotoech controller. have you set the second stage up properly for 15psi? it could also be that the solenoid is blocked or not switching over in it. mine did that. i'd flick the switch and you could hear it switch but the solenoid was blocked so it wouldn't change boost.

i'm with trident on this one. will also depend on whether you break any studs in the process.

but yeah, i'm talking stock turbo only. on an aftermarket turbo where there isn't as much chance of the exhaust wheel ending up in the cat it isn't so much of an issue.

i care more about how much the turbo is pushing out so i get a longer life from it. i'd rather know that my turbo is running at 12psi for sure than thinking my turbo was running at 12 psi when it is actually getting up as high as 14psi. then having it blow and wonder why it blew if i'm only running 12psi.

boost pressure, NOS pressure, coolness meter (permanantly set to max!)

if that is the case then why to hks and other turbo makes put a nipple on the compressor housing of the turbo? if the intercooler causes a restriction of 5psi at 15psi manifold pressure (example only) then the plenum is reading 15psi, but the turbo is actually running 20psi. thats why it is best to have both wastegate and gauge read before the cooler.

the ideal place to have your boost gauge is on the line to the wastegate, just before the controller. however then you never see vacuum. most people like to see vacuum so they hook the gauge up from the manifold.

i vote for the guy that wrote that for prime minister!!

another problem when it hasn't rained for ages is that there is a lot of oil built up on the road. and the first rain after a dry spell is usually the worst.

my 33 doesn't have 1, but my mates does. i think my car has been in a front end bingle before i got it, so it may not have been replaced, but i am looking at putting 1 on to help in summer.

have you checked the injector plugs? and they run off a dizzy, not off a crank angle sensor.

don't take this advice. it can cause spiking. and you want your wastegate line as short as possible. thats why a lot of turbos have the wastegate line come straight off the compressor housing. it is also best to have the wastegate line before the intercooler so that your turbo only ever works at a certain max boost. if it is after the cooler, and the cooler ads a fair bit of restriction at higher boost, the engine may be only getting 12psi, but the turbo may be producing more. which means more pressure, more heat, less life.

this is going to sound like a dumb question (and it may have been answered in the middle few pages. i read the first 2 then skipped the rest), but what does it hit full boost by on the rb20, and what does the stock rb20 turbo hit full boost by?

i want the gtr, cause it was driven by zee beautiful womens!

yes. to a small extent. but if i say how my tuner will russian belly dancer me. (kuts nutsoff)

there should be a vacuum hose coming off the back of the plenum. just hook it into that.

don't run 2 different size tyres on the rear. the diff won't like it much. and you'll get uneven grip off the line.

very, very cool.

why don't we get it? 2 reasons. 1. the same reason why the detuned the ls1 before the put it in the aussie monaros, but not the british and american ones. cause they think we are a bunch of hobo's that don't get cars serviced (and they might not be too far off the money on that one. not everyone, but a lot of people leave their servicing well past the recommended time) 2. it isn't holden selling them in the uk. it is vauxhall. so holden has no control over the situation. it is similar to how corsa got the monaro then took it from 300kw to about 330kw.