mad082

is there any other way?

it could be the iac valve. the aac valve is what always gets cleaned. the iac is down under the intake plenum. (i think thats why not many people clean it) from what i know of it, it controls the idle air for cold start.

yeah its the hks ssqv. they do have an adjustable spring. any good bov should. as for the plumback, you can always bodge up a plumback adapter. a mate of mine had one and just wedged the plumback hose in there and got out the ole' ductape.

AFM = air flow meter as for the tyre width, you'd be suprised how much extra drag wide tyres ad. if you think that the stock tyre size is about 205, so thats a total width across all 4 tyres of 820mm. (i know tread patterns vary) if you run 235s on the fron and 265s on the rear your total width is 1000mm. thats nearly an extra tyre that you are pushing. if you want to see how much difference rolling resistance makes, get 2 push bikes. 1 road bike, and a mountain bike and roll down a hill. the speed at the bottom of the hill will be much faster on the road bike due to the skinnier tyres. or get a small 4 cylinder car like an echo, and go for a run adn see what speed you can get up to. then put big tyres on and see how much it drops. a girl i know with an echo has 17's on it. then she busted a wheel and put the stockers back on for a few weeks. she gained about 50k's a tank with the old wheels (195's vs 165's).

i just took mine in for a power run and saw that the speed of the dyno said 180 when the limiter hit and the speedo said higher.

definately shouldn't take more than a day. i did a clutch in a 180sx last night. started it at just after 5, and was finished by 8. but i had use of a hoist.

once you have all the rubber boots and crap off, just get the circlip pliers onto it. to make it a bit easier as you squeeze it in wedge a flat screwdriver under it to pop it up.

i work in a bike shop so i have pumps with attatchments about the same size.

yeah, you can replace it, but you don't have to. have a look at it to make sure it isn't cracked at all (look around the base of the ball). i know that you can get ones from uniqueautosports.com for about $55. if you do replace it don't over tighten it or it will snap at the base. in my case i had to take the box out to replace it cause it was broken (from being over tightened). i just got mine fixed. a bought a high tensile bolt, cut the head off it, drilled a hole in the base of the bolt where the old one had been and tapped a thread and screwed it in.

also, you don't need to drop the oil out, but it will most probably spill some out the back of the gearbox when pulling it out if you don't. so you can just drain the oil, and put the same oil back in if you don't want to change it.

you don't need any other parts than what you have said. as for the process, here is a rough guide. remove shifter. remove exhaust. remove tailshaft. remove clutch slave cylinder. undo the starter motor and all the bell housing bolts. the hardest one to get to is directly behind the rocker cover. there are also 2 plugs on the gearbox that have to be unplugged. put a jack under the box and have it take the weight. then udo the support bracket. then slowly lower the jack while pulling back on the gearbox. you may also have to twist it. remove the old clutch. should be 6 12mm bolts holding it to the flywheel. it will also be sitting on dowels so you will just need to pry it off with a screw driver. you may not need to machine the flywheel. it may just need a quick sand. go and clean your hands before handling the new clutch. you don't want any oil on it. put the clutch and pressure plate on and put the bolts in a turn or 2. now position the clutch plate in the centre and tighten the bolts. to get the fully tight put 1 of the bell housing bolts in and wedge a screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel to stop it from turning. now reverse the removal process to install the box.

i used a similar method. i used a bike pump. but you have to be steady in how hard you push down. then you just fine tune it on the car.

the ecu may not have been modified. your speedo may just be out. on the dyno my speedo said about 195 when it hit the 180kmh limiter. the popping my either be coils or spark plugs. as for the tail of the car moving, i'd get a wheel alighment done and get all the suspension checked. there may be something broken or worn, or there may be a problem with the hicas system.

the needle shouldn't site at -7 at idle. it should be at about -5. if you are boosting and it doesn't go above 0 then there could be a major leak, or the turbo is stuffed, like its missing the exhaust wheel.

but you should still take them to the dentist once a year for a flouride treatment. i use mequires scratch x.

i can see how that would happen. they did load it by the jack points by the looks of it, but the lotus is a rear engined car, and they obviously unloaded enough weight off the front to let it flip. the weight distribution of an elise is about 60% rear 40% front. and since they only weigh 840kg, once you take the front wheels off you have removed a fair bit of the front weight. and also since they have a short wheel base (over 30cm shorter than an r32, and over 40cm shorter than an r33) that cmakes them easier to flip in that sort of situation too.

most states they are illegal, and the fine can be big. deffinately check legallity in your state first.

keep the stereo, but to compensate, remove the steering wheel and just use a shifter on the nut, remove drivers seat and sit on a milk crate, remove the doors and just put some fly screen in, cut holes in the floor, flintstones stlye, remove the top half of the bonnet leaving the frame, then strecth a bed sheet across the frame (no-one will know the difference) rub the car back to bare metal, that will save a few kg.

where do you get the boost pressure reading from for the wastegate now that you put the front mount on? if it from the plenum (like from the bov hose) then that is the cause of the spiking. get the old cooler pipe you removed and cut the nipple off. then take you stock cooler pipe off that runs from the turbo to the cooler and get the nipple welded in there. that should sort out the spiking problem. it did for me. i was spiking up to 14psi (from 11) before i moved the pressure source.

the monster tacho you could just mount on the steering colum in front of the factory one. other gauges can be mounted under the cd player where the tray is.

you should need some form of ecu since the afm reads differently. it would probably run ok but it would screw your mixtures up. a safc has a preset for it, as does a power fc.

did this on the weekend. my reverse light was half full of water. i still have moisture in there cause i was too lazy to stand there with the hairdryer till it was all gone. but atleast now my boot doesn't leak.

to see if it is alloy, just hold a magnet to it. alloy isn't magnetic like steel. alloy won't weld to steel. and heat shouldn't be a problem since the bov is on the cold pipe.

it is caused by the lights not being sealed properly, or they are still sealed, but water has gotten in somehow and can't get out.

yup. and leaving the restrictor in means that the lowest pressure you can run is higher.