mad082

import vs local: which is better for- carry 5 adults : local boot space: local insurance cost: local fuel costs: local repairs costs: local cost to buy new: local performance: import so people are always going to buy local made cars for the simple fact that ordinary families are better suited to having a local made car. sure they have bugs, but there are a lot more of them sold than a lot of other cars.

pass everything on the road but a fuel station. and i bet it doesn't corner that well.

i view MS as someone that won because he had more money to spend on developement than most others. sure its easy to win when you have the bigest bank balance. and if something didn't go ferrari's way they would bitch and winge to the officials till someone got penalised for it. (a bit like skaife) and he was a dirty driver at times.

who did the install? did you get the rotors machined? did you bed the new pads in properly? it could be possible that you have a siezed piston, and it is only working sometimes. also check that a pad hasn't fallen out.

it would probably be cheaper to turbo it, as there are plenty of cheap parts out there to do it.

race car, not street car so it doesn't count. and what tyres were you on?

good to see that there are still some smart people on the road.

first see if there is any oil above the manifold.

as above, does it still have the centre muffler? and a turbo car is quieter than a n/a car. you may have to get the centre muffler changed to a different type to quieten it down if you think its too loud.

all of mine broke off in the head, so it was a much harder job. if they break off with some of the stud poking out there is a tool that you put on the end of a socket to grip onto them to get them out. no drilling required.

well for starters, if anyone has ever read the warranty info from holden, if you have something replaced under warranty, you then get 2 years warranty on that part. so if you get a diff replaced under warranty a week before the warranty runs out, you still have 2 years warranty on the diff. the second point is that most commodores do more k's in the first 2 years than most imports have done in their life.

just noticed your intake temp was 54 degrees. that may have something to do with it. also i'd say your tune isn't the best. the graph is a bit crappy, but that could also be due to the fact you are losing quite a bit of boost. and if it was run in 4th gear, they are backing off at about 6000rpm.

will take pics when i do it. the oil breather hose is simple. there are 2 hoses that come out of the top of the rocker covers. 1 of them was split. the pcv valve comes out of the drivers side rocker cover and goes into the plenum. its near the radiator bleed valve. but i will post pics.

well if anyone wants to go for a drive i will more than happily sit in front of the sony for a while and do some quick laps.

and tom walkinshaw racing has a fair bit to do with hrt. a few years back they were in the news with hrt and kmart racing due to holden owning part of it or something like that. thats when skaifey bought hrt, and greg murphy started kicking skaife's arse.

they had the same problem with the vr. you'd think they'd learn from previous mistakes. i saw a gunmetal grey commodore last night on my way home. they look absolutely horrid in executive form. they look ok with the ss body kit, but not in plain factory trim.

well i think i may have found the source of my problems..... #crosses fingers# i have a cracked oil breather hose on the head (the one from the intake pipe to the passengers side rocker cover). this would've been broken when i got my manifold studs replace a few weeks back. so i've replaced that, and then i also found that my pcv valve grommet was split. so basically i had 2 vaccum leaks. getting a new grommet today, so hopefully that will be the end of my issues.

anyone that thinks it will be an easy job should just go and try to take the heat sheild off the manifold and see how long that takes.

took pretty much a full day to get mine done. but i didn't have to pay anything cause i know the guy that owns the shop. i had 2 broken studs, and they broke 2 more getting the old ones out. they have to take the turbo off and oll the other crap thats in the way.

there is nothing wrong with the x-force cat. and there is nothing wrong with mild steel.

sounds like it has a remapped ecu, so that means that there will be no r&r. probably either the plugs need to be gapped down, or are the wrong heat range, or the coils need to be taped up. get a set of new plugs just to be on the safe side. the ones you want are NGK BKR6ES or BCPR6ES. the first ones are just the v groove option. they should be gapped at 0.8mm, and will set you back about $4 each.

i forgot what sort of car it was that i was going to try, so i just used the gtr again. ran a 51.3xx, then a 51.081 then a 51.063. so close to the 50's i could cry. then i was pissed off when i put slicks on and only went 2 seconds faster. i kept braking way too early, and going slow round corners.

going to check the voltage to the temp sensor over the weekend. going to give the aac valve another clean tonight. it hasn't been done for a few thousand k's. nath: how hot is it where you are? if it isn't that hot then i doubt it is heat soak.

my problem isn't just when the car is hot though. it did it after driving for about 1km on my way to work. and it wasn't hot here this morning.

i'm getting my self all mixed up. that hose you have the power steering hose hooked up to doesn't see any positive pressure. hook it up to the same hose as you have the boost solenoid hooked up to.