mad082

the problem is we pretty much have to replace the whole engine, bit by bit until we solve it.

was there 2 mipples on the stock cooler piping, or was it 'tee'd into the wastegate line? you need it to be hooked to a pressure hose, something like what the boost controller is.

i have a thread going where i have similar problems, except mine is only every now and then, not all the time. my car won't idle at times (it hunts) and even on light throttle you can feel it missing hunt. i disconnected my o2 sensor and the problem goes away. hooked it back up last night and went for a drice and it was all good, but on the way to work it played up again. i'm going to put my old o2 sensor back in and see what happens.

where did the hose connect to in the first place? was it hooked to the cooler pipe?

some cars look cool white. the bA xr8 look spretty hot in white, as does the mazda 6, but the ve commodore looks like complete arse.

i saw a white commodore yesterday. absolutely horrid. some of the other colours look at, but not the white.

i'm not using gas. might have to have a go at the ZZII tonight (shows how much of a life i have - playing the sony on a friday night). my big problem is that i usually cross the finish line with 2 wheels on the grass.

is there any way to check the temp sensor?

it looks to be a pressure hose for the power steering. where di you hook the wastegate up to?

i don't think it is the throttle cable. the reason is that i can sit there and it won't do it. then it might do it for a second then it will go away. or it will hunt so bad it stalls the car. i'm giong to clean the AAc valve again. last time i had this sort of issue it was the cause, but it had slightly different symptoms. it would hunt, but the idle would sometimes sit at 600, other times 1500.

but that has more to do with the intercooler getting nice cold air than the intake. we need someone with an intake temp sensor to do some testing. plenty of people have done it on the pod, but that only proves that it is going into the turbo colder, it doesn't show what happens once it has been compressed.

yeah changed the oil a few times. i usually do it as soon as i buy a seconda hand car, or if the car is new i do a few laps of a track, then change it for the easy power upgrade.

well there you go, you have more power than me. i only have 852hp. i'm just in a normal r34 gtr that has been fully modded, and its done a fair few k's.

you can do it, depending on what boost you are planning on running. i'm not too sure if the r32's have a rich and retard in them. if not then boost away. it is a common upgrade. have a flick through the rb20 dyno results and see if anyone has posted results of a rb25 turbo on a rb20 with stock ecu.

please explain

yes.......... yes. thats ok........ blue

if 30 degree air is heated to 110 degrees in the process of being compressed, i don't think the 70 degree isn't going to be heated to to 150 degrees, just because it started off 40 degrees hotter. also cold air is denser, so when it is compressed it will expand more. this would mean a higher pressue in the intercooler pipe. the wastegate then sees this higher pressure and opens the wastegate further, slowing down the turbo, so it pumps less air. which means pressure on the air coming out of the wastegate.

been there, done that, got the tee shirt. thanks anyway.

how would the cat affect it? update: i got home this arvo (been driving with the o2 sensor unplugged) and plugged the o2 sensor back in. seemed to run fine. then the aircon switched off, and it ran slightly crappy. turned aircon back on and ran fine. watching the gauge it runs leaner with the aircon on, and richer with the aircon off. so i'm thinking it may be fouled plugs, or possible the idle control, but i'm open to other suggestions.

nissan had a similar problem with the 2003 350z (had 2 recalls) the 200sx had 2 recalls in 95, 1 in 96, 97 and 98. and the list of other models goes on, such as the v35 skyline.

you will have to post up you suspension settings, and other mods.

you can't have white pointing back unless it is the number plate light. otherwise cars may think it is a headlight. i had a nice officer explain this to me one night. i didn't have any lights on my car, but i was just asking him because he had pulled me over because he was bored.

there are plenty of people on here with remapped r32 ecu's. sure an aftermarket ecu will give you better gains that a remap, but for cars with only a few mods, there would be very minimal difference, since the remaps adjust both afrs and timing. how is that different to a fully programable ecu? it is all about $ per kw. if you can spend a thrid of the money and come out with a tune that is within a few kw across the whole rev range then it is money well spent. for a relatively stock car a remap will be more than adequate, provide very similar gains, and be a fraction of the price. i know that i wouldn't pay $1500 if i could spend $500 and come out with pretty much the same result. i would put the other $1000 into doing something else.

air is a gas.

i know that the act of compressing the gas is what heats up the air, but the question is, does a gas compressed at 1 temp go to the same temp as a colder gas. the reason why it could go either way is that boiling water freezes quicker than warm water. its called the Mpemba effect.