mad082

my understanding of putting a resistor in: the problem with putting a resistor in is that the afm will still hit 5.1v, but the ecu will think it is lower. the voltage won't actually go any higher. the only real way to do it is to make it so the hot wire doesn't have as much air pass by it, e.g. have a tube that lets air bypass the afm. to do this you would need to have an aftermarket ecu and to tune it on the dyno, and hope that the amount of air bypassing the afm is always the same as what you tuned it to be.

what noise do you get when you lift off the throttle on acceleration? even if you have no bov you should still get noise.

should be in front of the drivers side front wheel. if you have the stock airbox you may not hear them.

no it isn't any good to run it on a r33. i think you should swap it with me for my stock r33 turbo. just kidding! it will run fine, but you may hit r&r a bit earlier with it.

it tails off a little bit at up top. i just put it down to a mix off the boost controller ($22) and the turbo running out of puff. it only drops of 1, maybe 2 psi. i don't really take much notice. usually keeping my eyes on the road. i do know that when i had my turbosmart dual stage controller on it would bleed off about to about 11.5psi, but i know that my cheap one doesn't bleed off anywhere near as much.

all manual turbo gts-ts are type m. most of the auto's are, but some are type g (auto sedan only). my s1 is a type m but doesn't have side skirts, rear pods, or the beefy front bar. where people with series 2 go wrong calling them mspecs is because there was 2 options. type m spec 1, and typme m spec 2. they just leave the "type" off the front. the only way to check if it is a type m is with the nissan fast program.

and if the turbo is running at 90 degree (using it as an example) then the air would get heated up to 90 degrees whether it enters the turbo at 30 degrees or 20 degrees.

i would like to see someone with a temp sensor in the cold intercooler pipe to test this theory. having a sensor on the airfilter doesn't mean much. i'd like see the difference after the intercooler.

it was me.

that could be moisture in the coilpacks.

but anyone that say they lose power after 12psi needs a better flowing exhaust, and a better intercooler.

when it goes BOOM (kinda like justin's) i got an excuse to get a new one.

my economy is definately affect by driving style.

14psi is very fun. 12psi is just boring to me now.

a heavier flywheel also helps on launches. if you launch at high rpm a lighter flywheel can make it bog down easier. so if you like doing burnouts, keep a heavy flywheel.

what are the possible causes to make a car run lean at idle? vacuum leak is always the most obvious, but what others? and they would have to be something that isn't always there. a vacuum leak should make it do it all the time.

i only get that sort of economy on the highway. round town i get around 250kms to about 45L. but i have some issues that i think are being caused by the o2 sensor. that and my tune is rather fat.

well i have had the remap in there for about 4 months now. haven't had any problems. a remap is basically an aftermarket ecu. it has all the same properties. it is tuned to your specific car. how good it is all comes down to the tuner. i know people who have gotten aftermarket ecu's and have found them crap, because of a poor tune.

having a bigger exhaust should give you better economy at cruise, because it has more power (due to less restriction). so you should be able to use less throttle % for a given speed. at WOT it lets a bit more air into the motor, so the ecu has to add in more fuel to keep the afr's right. so both of munky's answers are right.

i just don't see the point in spending over $1000 just to do a gearbox conversion so that you can get a new ecu.

the problem with this is that you can get a little turbo motor (like a et pulsar) and turn it into a bloody fast car. my mate drove one at jamboree that ran low 12's. any turbo car has potential to go much faster (even a smart).

i'm going to stick my old o2 sensor back in tonight, since unplugging it last night helped the problem. the only reason i got a new o2 sensor to start with was that i was chasing better fuel economy. and it made no difference. the economy still sucks. and if the problem is still there i'm going to borrow a mates afm on the weekend and see if that does anything.

well if it is an auto r32, i would be looking at every option before converting to manual and putting a pfc in. there is a huge difference in price. especially if it is a r32. the cost difference between a r32 remap, and getting a pfc and manual conversion is a well over $1000. i run a remapped ecu in my 33. haven't had any issues with the ecu.

its not always about knowledge of parts, etc. sometimes they know its a crap job and don't really want to do because it is just such a pain. so they quote you extra. my best mate is a mechanic, so i know how much crap goes on.

the very top photo looks like a aston crossed with a mini.