mad082

also the other regulation is that it must be a road car, not race car. and it must be japanese.

seen a few on cars. seem to be pretty good for the money.

well i know it isn't the ecu because i have tried another ecu in it, and it still did it. i took notice of what the o2 sensor was doing last night. it was pretty much just staying at the 1 voltage and not moving much. it would slowly lean out slightly (not quite into the lean section of the gauge) then when the hunt would start it would bounce from where it was to rich. the problem is that it will run fine 90% of the time, then ocassionally do this. so that leads me to rule out vacuum leak, etc, since that would make it do it all the time.

i doubt it is the fuel pump. i had a wideband o2 sensor on it a few weeks back and the afr's are 12.0 through the middle of the range, then fattened up to 11.5 at top end. that was at 11psi. and the fact that when i disconnected the o2 sensor it ran fine. it doesn't ping up top. vacuum is at about -21 on the aftermarket gauge, so i don't think there is a vacuum leak. i'm going to check the tps tonight and see if that is out of whack. and check the IAC valve (although i don't really want to since it is hard to get to). might also get a new fuel filter. maybe i got a bad batch of fuel and clogged the filter up. as for the coils, i only taped them up to be on the safe side. there were no cracks in them when i taped them. and since i fixed the problem by disconnecting the o2 sensor, that means they aren't the cause. and it isn't under heavy load that it misses. its at idle, or at extremely light throttle.

i'm pretty sure the drivers side is dual stage so it has the auto system in it. it is a pain that they didn't atleast give you auto down for the passengers side. or if the passengers control had auto up and down in it.

well i disconnected the o2 sensor and it seems to be fine. the o2 sensor is only a few months old, so i might put the old 1 in and see what it does then.

i'm also taking a bike pump home tonight to try and pump air into the manifold to see if i can find a leak. its a bit easier to hear a leak when the motor isn't running.

i was thinking too lean or 2 rich, but more towards too rich. i can't remember what the gause was doing last night. all i do remember is that as the o2 sensor warmed up it was heading towards rich. and i know that a quick blip of the throttle would send it to rich.

the commodore ones have an ignitor pack underneath the coils. if you get it as a big block it will have the ignitor with it. but i'd stick with the rb20 ignitor.

should be ball bearing.

i have had this issue for a while and it has just gotten worse. it used to be that at idle it had a slight pop. now it is at idle, or cruising at very low throttle. odesn't really matter what rpm it is. i can make it do it at 4000rpm if i go along at a steady speed and just keep the throttle in the 1 spot. you will feel it be a bit sluggish, then it will clear, then it will do it again a few seconds later. if you floor it it will sometimes have an ever so slight hesitation, then it will rev out, and you can go up through the gears without any problems. it only seems to be if you go from cruise to WOT quickly. i thought it may have been the afm, so i cleaned it last night. didn't help. the spark plugs aren't that old (about 4000k's, and the missfire has been happening for about 2000k's), but going to replace them anyway (they are currently BCPR6ES gapped at 0.8mm). coils are taped up. its an r33 rb25det manual. i'm running stock bov, turbo back exhaust, $22 boost controller, pod, fmic, remapped ecu (but i stuck the stock ecu in and it still does it). it doesn't seem to do it until the o2 sensor comes up to temp and the signal starts to bounce (i have a air/fuel gauge - i like flashy lights). the o2 sensor is only a few months old as well, but might try my old sensor again. any other ideas as to what it may be. can't find any vacuum leaks, but going to have another look tonight. might have to clean the aac valve again (it was also only done a few months ago).

just bolt a rb25 in. give you much more power all over the rev range.

it shouldn't affect it too much. although it will be letting more air through the motor at 10psi so it may use a bit more. also you shouldn't be running 10spi through the stock exhaust. it isn't good for the turbo. you are adding more heat into the system as it is working harder to get to 10psi.

what sk is talking about is basically a pressure valve. it is kind of like the pressure valve in a hot water system, or pressure cooker. when the pressure gets to a certain point the extra air will go from inside the plenum, out the valve, and into the engine bay. could it possibly also be your plugs? what gap, how old, etc are they. if the extra air is getting into the motor it could be blowing your spark out.

unfortuneately that doesn't count in this battle since it is only for street tyres, no racing slicks.

they'd have to buy the license off EA games. they bought it years ago for the porche challenge games, and have kept it exclusive ever since.

where you live also plays a bit of a part in it. where i live is rather hilly, so there is a lot of taking off up hills, etc. even though you drive down the hills as well, so you use more fuel at times, and less at others.

ookami: you said you got 560k's out of the tank on the highway. you always get better economy on the highway. 15-16L/100k isn't that bad. i used to get that out of my magna. if i took it easy i'd get 14.

i've had my skyline for about 6 months now and have washed it 3 times. its white so it doesn't show the dirt much.

no. maybe i should. as for the traction control, i found that with it off i was getting too much sideways sliding accelerating out of corners. will have another go without it tonight if the missus doesn't get up me.

here's a simple trick. wash the brush out before you use it. just get the high pressure spray and give the brush a quick spray before you use it. and if you do get any tiny scratches, a cut and polish will get rid of most of them. and gympie (home of qld's proposed mega dam) FTW. our dam is at 82%. we had water restrictions a few years ago (while noosa kept using our water without restrictions)

you should be able to get a new light from nissan. as for the fuel smell, has your fuel economy gotten worse?

have you spoken to your insurance company to see if this will affect your premium? i'd stick with a factory colour (even if it isn't nissan). that way if you are ever in a crash it is much easier to get the paint matched.

well it would be retarding the timing, not advancing it. what sort of power are you after?

i'd say that your ecu has been remapped. but if it was then r&r should've been removed too.