mad082

firstly, how much fuel are you talking about when you say a full tank? there is no point saying 'full tank' since when some peoples gauge shows empty it has used 45L, others 55L. convert it into L/100k's. e.g. if you get 217k's to 50L you are getting 23L/100k's. if you only used 20L/100k, and if you only used 40L thats 18L/100k's. also, what mods does the car have? that could be the key to answering your problems. otherwise it may be either your AFM or o2 sensors.

you probably could ,but it won't be accurate at all. the stock sensor is only shortband, so it basically says either rich or lean.

there is someone in brissy doing r33's. my mate fried his 33 ecu (talking hole in the chip) and sent it to them and they sorted it out. they had tuned the ecu in the first place, and did another chip for him. rev limit at 7600, no speed cut, no r&r, etc.

theoretically yes.

the exit mould might eat the green scum without needing to remove the wing.

because if you read the first post yo would see he has the rb25 turbo on a rb20. rb20's don't spool as early as 25's. and yes they are really ball bearing. it is slide's highflowed ones that aren't. the only difference is the spool up time. once they are up and going they perform just like a ball bearing.

just get it machined.

that will make it grind slightly, but generally 1st and 2nd grind on a skyline due to they abbuse they get. and 1st and 2nd are the most used gears, so the synchros wear the fastest.

how big pipng do you want? you only need 2.5" piping. and thats what they put on falcons/commodores so they should have plenty of that.

no. i have seen a cooler with similar dimensions to this in a 33. you have to make it sit higher at the top, not lower at the bottom.

it takes power to turn the gearbox, diff, etc. on a stock car a very rough conversion is flywheel kw = rear wheel horsepower. your average drivetrain takes out about 30-40kw.

actually, is it only just after you have let the brakes off? it may be that the piston is a bit sticky and not releasing straight away. the missus' pulsar does that. also check your brake pads to see how worn they are. they have an indicator tab on them that rubs when they are low to let you know that they are low. it may just be that at low revs you can hear it, and other times there is too much outside noise that you can't hear it.

possibly wheel bearing?

the part with the nissan would PROBABLY be ok (not 100% on that) but as for the next 1mm, that may not be ok.

HP/L doesn't mean squat. power to weight on the other hand..... v8's usually pull well up top because of the bucket loads of torque.

the only way they can get out of paying due to mods is if the mods contributed to the accident. so for example if you had a bov, they can't say that the woman hit you because of the bov.

saw this done to a s1 on the weekend. all they had changed was the front bar.

should be 2 bolts each side (accessed from the boot) and the it is probably stuck down with a foam pad that has glue both sides. have you tried just spraying on exit mold? don't think it should affect the paint, but not sure.

the people like that aren't much different to people that think their reasonably stock turbo 6 will beat any random v8 (not dirrected at anyone, just making a point). if it is a 'stang, it may have some mumbo, depending on what mods it has. a lot of the older v8's go better than the new ones. they don't have an ecu telling the motor to stop making power, or to control emissions. its as simple as to go faster, put your foot down further. just think of cars like the XY GTHO phase 3 came out of the factory running low 14 second passes, and 0-100 in 5.5 seconds. now that may be common figures now, but this is a car built over 30 years ago. get a healthy one of these, throw some cams in it, different carby, bigger exhaust and a few other little things and you have a car that runs 12's, and will fry the tyres if you sneeze on the accelerator.

only way to do it safely is with a wideband o2 sensor. also if he increased the fuel pressure, then he the 3% of the safc should be reducing the signal to the ecu, not increasing it.

pretty sure the fan on my rb25 is a rb20 one.

love the way people call r33's 'boats'. since they only weigh 30kg more than a 32. anywho, i'd also be looking at the afm being damaged. borrow someone elses and see if that helps.

is it just the fan you are after, or the motor and all? if it is just the fan, it is only 4 bolts. and i'm pretty sure the rb20 and 25 use the same fan, but not 100%sure on that.

nearly anything can be adapted to fit something different. yes it can be adapted, but may be a pain of a job due to the angle that the top pipe is coming out at. it would just depend on the dimansions of the cooler.

having the cat caved in shouldn't affect it much unless it has caved in and is blocking the air. normally when they cave in they just blow out the exhaust. it could well be a slipping clutch. remember that the strip is a lot stickier than the road, so there is more chance of it slipping. many people have fried clutches at the strip that were fine driving on the road. your gear ratios are a touch taller than most. i checked mine yesterday and i do 3750rpm at 80kmh in 3rd (like the others) but that shouldn't make that much difference. what rpm were you changing at? was it chirping gears on the changes, or would it rev up for a split second? how many runs did you get done? was there anyone there with similar mods that got much better times? and most importantly, did you have your windows up or down, and was the aircon off? if you had the windows down, then that is your answer right there. that makes a huge difference at 100mph.