mad082

the stock temp gauge is designed to sit in the middle of the gauge from about 75 degrees up to about 100 degrees, and then it will skyrocket above that temp. this is to stop people panicking when the temp gauge moves to a bit hotter when going up a bit of a hill, etc. as for bleeding the cooling system, remove the radiator cap, cut the base of a coke bottle and jam it in the radiator filler with some water/coolant in it (so it acts like a funnel) and turn the heater on and start the car. just in front of the intake plenum is a little round metal object with 2 thin hoses and a 10mm bolt on the top, as well as a warning about not opening when hot. this is the bleed screw. so remove this bolt. you should start to get some water coming out of this hole. when it is a solid stream then bolt the bolt back in and you're done. but there is a good chance that the radiator is your issue if it's overheating on the highway.

facepalm...... you cannot just put some random amount of fuel in, drive around and then put some other random amount of fuel in and then work out your economy from that. you might as well have just had a 4 year old kid also do the calculations for you in their head. the number they would give you would be about as accurate as your numbers. the whole point of filling the tank to the top before starting off is so that you can fill it up to the exact amount of fuel you have used. that is why i also said in a previous post about trying to use the same servo, and ultimately the same pump at that servo and then only filling until the first click both times you fill up. this way you can garantee that there will be a minimal difference between before and after volumes. had your figures been accurate in anyway, your fuel economy would've been around 11L/100kms, which is retty good.

that is for most NA engines. to put this into perspective, the stock ecu on the missus SSS pulsar (natro sr20) runs around the high 11:1 mark in the mid section of the rev range and drops to about 11:1 at high rpm. NA's can run a fraction leaner at WOT than turbos can, but not that much. just like turbos, natro cars still run between 14:1 and 15:1 at cruise via the o2 sensor

As mbs206 said, you don't want to go as lean as 14.7:1. However, at 13:1 it should still be making good power, but if it is tuned to be at 11.5 then it is probably pinging and the ecu backing the timing off

if you have the seat out then you will certainly hear the fuel pump louder than with the seat in.

From memory they are the same as the waterbottle cage bolts on bicycles, just a bit shorter, lol.

you should be making more power at 13:1 than 11.5:1 unless it is pinging it's head off and the ecu is backing the timing off

The ziex i had were 235 and they were shit, as were the 195s on the missus car, and that was the standard size. Every other tyre I've had on the missus car has been fine

Silver 33 gtst with gold wheels driving down venture drive in Noosa at about 5:20pm this arvo. I was in the carpark of the bike shop

try vice grips

could be the wheels spinning and the traction control kicking in (if it has it)

wasn't neccessarily calling you specifically an idiot, more just saying the people who don't pay attention to how much fuel they put in when trying to calculate fuel economy are very much missing the point of the excercise. and given that there have been hundreds of fuel economy threads over the years, and the majority have people using "a tank" as the unit of measure, it does get quite annoying. and yes, the skyline tank is 65L. that is 65L when bone dry, in other words, once the car has stalled and won't restart. even then it probably has a small amount of fuel in the bottom of the tank which the pump hasn't picked up. this just makes up for the amount of fuel that the filler neck holds. but if you are worried about fuel economy, a skyline is not for you. they are not economical at the best of times. yep, extra idle time just wastes fuel and increases engine wear. yes, fuel light generally means 10 to 15L of fuel left. and yeah, generally speaking, WOT is considered flogging it. you don't have to drive until empty. just drive a few hundred kms and then fill up. the other thing to note is that it is best to fill up at the same servo, using the same pump is possible. and only fill up until the first click, or if you go an extra click or 2, do that again the next time you fill up. this way you are getting an even sample. i know that between 2 servos that i regularly get fuel from, they vary by a few litres from when they click off. i know this because from one servo i get 1.5 trips to and from work to the first 1/4 of a tank, but from the other i get 2 trips to and from work (it's a 125km round trip to work and back). and this is reflected in the fuel economy when i change between the 2 servos for the first fill up. one gives better than average, the other gives worse.

i had ziex on 2 cars (at about the same time, since i was able to get them cheap). one were 235/45/17's on a magna, and the other were 195/50/15's on the missus SSS (stock suspension, wheels, etc). both where dead set slippery in the wet. weren't too bad in the dry, but the wet was pretty shocking. currently got toyo teo plus on the pulsar and they are much better. got some cheap nasty chinese crap on my commodore at the moment. they have more grip than the ziex did.

given that 1.1mm is factory spec gap, new coils should run it just fine unless you are running higher boost with other mods

this is exactly why people using "a tank" as a unit of measurement shouldn't be allowed to start fuel economy threads. every second idiot who starts one pays no attention to how much fuel they are putting in, only how many kms they are doing before they fill up, so they have no idea what sort of economy they are actually getting. in this case, what do you call "not flogging it"? are you regularly hitting boost even if not completely flooring it? if yes, then lay off the throttle a bit. how long does the car take to come up to temp? the temp needle should get to the middle of the gauge after a matter of minutes of driving. if it takes longer, or never gets to the middle of the gauge, you need a new thermostat. and if you are one of those people who let the car idle for a few mins to warm up before you drive it anywhere, well that won't be helping your fuel economy. maybe also check your tyre pressures. if you want better economy, go easy on the throttle. fuel economy isn't about how low in the rev range you change gears, but how light you are on the throttle. try driving around and stay off boost as much as possible. it's not hard to do. you should easily be able to drive around without hitting positive boost. also, if you are coming up to a set of lights that are red, lift off and coast from a long way back. basically, if you have to use your brakes approaching an intersection, you're wasting fuel, if you get what i'm saying. also, if there are a few sets of lights one after another, not too far apart and only the first one turns green, there is no need to rush up to 60kmh only to have to get hard on the brakes again. you will use much less fuel if you drive like a truckie. coast up to intersections with the aim of not coming to a complete stop. coming to a complete stop means you have to use extra fuel to get the car moving again.

we have a similar waiver that we get people to sign at work when they take a demo bike for a test ride

The car will probably turn both wheels, with or without a lsd. But if you put the car in neutral, hand brake off and turn one of the wheels by hand. If they both turn the same way, you have a lsd

The tool will ram someone off the road, massa v hamo style, in his frustration while trying to get through the field, so won't finish the race. Webber has had some decent starts lately, so might go ok. Gear ratios will play a big part (possibly why rbr is working on the tools car, since he will gain massively from having a taller top gear in the drs zones). Hamo will either dissapear into the distance or have a dummy spit and forget he is in a fragile open wheeler.

Maybe try posting in the wtb section.....

Possibly trying to get the post count up so they can pm people, or post in the for sale section, or whatever has a minimum post count requirement. Or they have delusions of trying to get a skyline to sound like a v8, lol

At the end of the day, if you are willing to buy a car that is nice to drive but will usually have pretty average fuel economy (and run in premium unleaded), is at the age where the reliability if some parts (like coils, etc) is starting to come into question, you pay higher insurance and get more police attention, then go for it. They are nice cars, they are nice to drive, etc, but there are plenty of better options if the car is to be used as a daily drive and running costs are a concern to you. In my current situation i wouldn't even consider a skyline. My choice is a high km commodore. I do 125kms a day, so an auto lounge chair that gets better fuel economy than a skyline, can run on whatever cheap fuel i see and is as reliable as they come is the perfect choice for me.

because of wasteland, lol

This When people start talking about back pressure, it's always good for a laugh

well given that the commodore gets cut in half and widened by 10cm or so to make it meet current regulations, yeah.

If you are getting new coils then run the stock gap of 1.1mm. As for plugs, you can either pay a heap for iridiums, or get coppers which are much cheaper. The part number for the coppers is bcpr6eres-11