mad082

the only real place it can go is there. but

could be the cams, since they are still stock. and if it is an r33 then the cams change at about 4500rpm.

i bought some of the nulon powersteering fluid with a addative to stop leaks. stoped the fluid from dropping too low, but it still gets the look as though its been leaking. must've been a factory option, and everyone seems to have ticked the "leaking power steering res." box.

generally once you do exhaust you get a boost rise. munkyboy- how do they figure that it can control the boost through the stock ecu? i wasn't aware that the stock ecu could control boost other than the 2psi jump.

the best thing fixing little scratches is an airbrush. as for marks on the front bar, mine hasn't been been polsihed since it was painted, so i just got the paint out and sprayed over the top.

for the fibreglass bar, you would reinforce it from the rear, then bog up the front, then sand the rest of it back and paint the whole thing. it isn't 100% required to paint the whole thing, but the size of it you may as well. i bogged up a deep scratch/small dent on my passenger door. it took me about 2 hours a day after work, for 5 days to get it done. that was sanding/preping it to be bogged, bogging it up, sanding it smooth, undercoating, sanding, painting, sanding, buffing.

last night i did a 52.754. couldn't be bothered doing it anymore..... until someone goes faster. now i'm going to see what the fastest lap i can do is. my current best in the skyline is a 47 second lap. that was the second lap i did on qualifying slicks. only did 2 laps to get that, and it was with all the settings i used on the sports tyres. then i cracked out the polyphony and did a 44 second lap. then had a look at the records and my best is a low 42. going to try to get into the 41's... then the 40's, then the 39's.

i had a bit of a shake in my old car. got new tyres and they took most of the balancing weights off. the old tyres were majorly out of balance. that solved my problem.

i think its 225/50/16. i have them on my other stock rims and they squash out a bit at the side, but still ok. i know on the 300zx wheels you can fit 245's, but they are a wider rim.

the bit that would throw you off is the heat sheilding around the front pipe. that makes it look bigger.

they are for the seatbelt pre-tensioners. in a crash they fire and stop the seatbelt from moving. they lock it in place so you don't go flying fowards and just loosen the belt.

there is no bleed valve on a 32. just take that hose off and get a longer piece and put it on with the controller in the middle of it. munkyboy, is there any sort of solenoid being run off the piggyback? does it have a vacuum hose running to it?

285's? don't be such a sissy. 365's!

or replace them.

depends on if it is for street or strip? strip you want a wider tyre on the rear, but not a low profile. street you want a lowish profile tyre. if you go too low profile you get a rougher ride and they tyre won't soak up the bumps. so on rough roads it will skip around a bit more. wider tyres only help with traction. once you get to a point where you aren't losing traction a wider tyre just adds ressitance.

thats just stupid. if it was going to cost me that much to insure a car i wouldn't bother buying it. get a shitter and drive it for a few years then get it and save yourself a lot of money in the meantime.

should've found a way to run it at high voltage for a while. then you could've enjoyed the bright headlights.

there is a good road from the bp servo at forest glen up to buderim. its got some bends. also just west of gympie there is some good roads. very winding, but also very unforgiving. 2 lanes but very little shoulder. steep drop 1 side, step bank on the other. otherwise take a drive out to borumba damn. the road out is pretty fun.

i got another 52 second lap last night, but it was slower than my best. the pressure gets to me and i lose it on the last corner. after i did that lap the next lap i was 0.3 up at the 2nd split, but screwed up the last corner. after doing the amount that i have, i think the best i could do is about a 52.7, but i would have to do a perfect lap, so i doubt its going to happen.

well untill you provide actual proof of a cooler making a car slower, there is no point. here i quote the simpsons. lisa: i could claim this rock keeps tigers away. homer: how can a rock do that? lisa: well do you see any tigers around? homer: i would like to buy that rock from you you have found some drag times that suit your story and just used them. if there were no other variables then it would work, but there are more variables that could make a bigger difference to the times than just an intercooler. the only constant is the driver and the basic car.

front bar yes. rear bar no. i only got the front bar because i thought it was what is refered to as a type m front bar (well a fibreglass copy of 1 anyway). i bought it over the phone and i didn't see it till the courier dropped it off. i only had the crappy series 1 front bar. and i was doing my FMIC install that weekend and this was going to look better with a cooler in it. that and i only paid $110 for it. it was damaged, thats why i got it cheap. turned out to be a copy of a bomex front bar. i was supposed to be getting a set of skirts and pods made by a guy i know thats a fibreglasser by trade (was going to take a mold off another skyline and just make a copy for me), but that hasn't happened (been waiting a few months). and yes the car does look kinda gumby having on the front bar on. but it does look better than the old front bar, and isn't much lower than a stock bar. i only have stock wheels on it too, since all of my money has been going into making it go faster before i make it look bling. but i want some skirts to make it look a little bit nicer.

ok, well if you read the fine print, he went slower because of more axle tramp, and he had a lighter flywheel. so you could blame the slower times on the flywheel, as he didn't adjust his driving style to take into account the performance difference. a lighter flywheel is more enclined to make the car bog down off the line as it has less inertia, and has less chance of the clutch slipping. so if you try to launch at the same rpm as you did before it is going to act differently. so even though he had an extra 35 or so kw at the top end, the bigger cooler magically made the dyno readout lie? so on the dyno he had more power, but on the road it just magically dissapeared? on the 3rd visit he had much more power and was suffering from wheelspin. is due to the fmic being too big and making the car have less power so that instead of having more power and more traction it has less power and less traction? i think not. and look, they were all done on different days. so the later days may have been hotter, or the track might not have been as sticky, there may have been an oil down, or there may have been a headwind, and he used different tyres for some of the runs, and on the last lot he had different suspension. the list of holes in your theory of it being caused by the intercooler goes on. find me some 1/4 runs done back to back on the same day with no other mods other than the cooler and i'll believe them.

or follow me round a bit. not so much crazy driving, but quite a bit of left foot on brake/right foot on gas action.

just get the chicks wasted first. then bring out the strippers . might get some girl on girl action

could be the o2 sensor. also, how 'spirited' is your driving? my missus has a SSS pulsar (natro sr20, and if i drive normally i get about 11.5L/100k. if i fang it everywhere i get about 13L/100k