mad082

firstly, yay i have the first topic!!!!! just looking for designs of sideskirts for my 33. could people post up pics of their sideskirts, and what brand they are.

the guys name is nigel. sounds like a nerd.

would come if i lived in brissy. live 2 hours north. i'd put on a smoke show for everyone.

get some strippers to walk around in bikini's. then invite me.

he ran up the back of you. he will get booked for tail-gating (not following at a safe distance or something politcally correct like that). but there are more and more commodore drivers getting import cars now, so its easier to say 'dead shit driver' rather than commodore wanker.

or just cut a coil or 2 out of the spring. this will allow you to screw the bolt in a few mm more, without altering the tension of it very much.

having the restrictor in means that there is less pressure after it/before the controller. this means that the screw has to be looser to keep the boost pressure at the required level. having the restrictor out means that the controller is getting the full pressure, so the screw has to be further in to stop it being forced open.

if it is a mechanical diff you should be able to get it shimmed to tighten it up. otherwise if it uses clutches inside you may need to get them replaced. it isn't the universal jiont on the tailshaft making the noise?

i'd say possible causes are really bad launch, holding gears too long and granny shifting.

i just did some calculations, and going off your speed vs rpm you be getting about the right sort of speeds out of each gear. max speed in- 1st = 59kmh 2nd = 106kmh 3rd = 157kmh 4th = 201kmh

the only ones i know off the top of my head are at 100kmh i'm doing a bit over 2500rpm, at full noise in 2nd is about 100kmh. and in 4th i'm hitting the 180kmh limiter (done during dyno run) at about 6250.

i used the illumination wire for the stereo. i was putting a new cd player in at the same time i was doing my gauge. but i'd also say the ciggy lighter.

i think it having it in would mean that there is even less pressure on the spring.

it is if you are comparing 2 different cars with 2 different setups, with 2 different drivers. there are too many factors. tyres, suspension, tyre pressure, clutch, rpm launched at, compression of the motor, etc. here's an example. 2 cars run at the drags. 1 runs a 10.46 @ 131.3mph with a 60ft of 1.66 another car runs a 11.36 @ 119.3mph with a 60ft time of 1.648. does this mean that the second car is more powerful because it got a better 60ft time? no it just means it got a better launch.

i don't have a restrictor in mine. i put a new bit of hose on there. didn't seem to affect it at all. fugi- yes cubes instructions still apply. when he is talking about a bleed valve he is talking about a boost controller. doesn't matter what type.

think of the extra power (and reliability) that could be acheived by spending that much on a rb25

what mods do you have? i was getting bleed off about the same as you when i had my stock cat and dump pipe.

well the problem is that you have forgotten the fact that once the throttle is fully open and you are at full boost the stock cooler usually flows less than most front mounts. this means that the turbo has to work harder to flow the same amount of air. also to compare a car with a front mount with to a completely different car with a front mount at the drags is pointless. to compare times you would have to have the same driver in the same car and do multiple runs with the stock cooler vs the front mount and work off average times. i'm yet to hear of anyone go to the drags with the stock cooler then go with a fmic and run slower, then put the stock cooler back on and run faster again. i'm sure there are people getting into the 12's with the stock cooler, but there are also people doing it with a front mount. all the size of a cooler changes is response.

on what sort of tyres? because i have gotten well under 50 seonds on slicks.

pretty sure nismo heat range of 8 is a hot plug. if it is cold though, it is very cold and would nearly foul just sitting in traffic driving to work.

i'd say that they are series 2 and have the ignitor built in as R33S2 said. if they are series 2 plugs then don't use them. you would have to change the loom and get rid of the ignitor. it would be easier to just sell them and get a set of series 1.

i'm 23 and pay $1050 through just cars for my 33, valued at $14,000. it would've been $970, but i put the missus on there and she's only a rating 2. but i don't live in the city. i live in a small town so that would knock it down a bit.

for the money it would cost you to buy the motor and put it in you could get your rb25 going faster than a stock rb26.

in the latest supercheap catalogue they have half pod covers picture in it.

and how old are the plugs? and what sort are they?