mad082

nissan recommends 10,000k's i'm pretty sure. but i do it at 5,000. and i have with every car i've owned except for my old commodore, which was 12 months old and i did it at the recommended intervals since it was under warranty.

1. apexi haven't made the SITC for ages. just search on ebay. 2. coil packs won't make much of a difference unless your old ones are dead. 3. depends on what boost you are planning on running. it does get a bit hot in brissy in summer, so prbably don't go past about 9-10psi on the stock cooler.

that because it will be out by.. lets say 10%. so at 50kmh it will be out by 5kmh, but at 150kmh it will be out by 15kmh. speedo's are usually out by percantage, not by a fixed kmh. jazza, i'd say that your rsm is accurate. your tacho needle probably just bounces up to that sort of rpm, but the motor isn't actually going that high.

ahhh, that says it all.

city or highway? i get about 250k's to about 50L of spirited city driving. and how many l's are you reffering to as a tank?

my 33 has the mitsubishi bov on it. so did the wrx i did a fmic install on. i just chuckle any time i see Atreyu's name, cause it is the name of the kid in the first 'the never ending story' movie and he's a real sissy.

you won't be breaking any qld laws, but i'm not sure about vic laws. i know one of the southern states has a law that limits you to 1 intake mod. that means either cooler or filter. as for a car being slower with a big front mount, that is a lie. i put a hybrid front mount cooler on my car and it goes noticably better. if you were just cruising along and punched it it picked up much better. sure it has to fill up more space with air, but a good cooler has less restriction, so once it has that space filled it will flow more air through.

it also depends on how worn the head is. i know that with motocross bikes, after a few rebuilds you have to start changing piston sizes to keep the compression up, as the bore wears over time. but i don't know how much that applies to cars. never had to do a rebuild.

have been in 1. would much rather my manual one, unless i had big power, then i'd go auto (save frying clutches).

fugi: find where your wastegate line is, and just put the controller in that line. don't go running it from different locations than the stock setup.

have you ever tested this, or are just saying it because everyone else does? i have the stock r33 turbo running at 14psi, and it is noticably better than 12psi, which i used to run it at. i'm putting it on a dyno in a few weeks time so i'll be able to do before and after runs.

you are going to get heaps of people telling you that your turbo is going to blow any second now running at that boost. as well as things like 'happy dyno'. but well done. looks about right for your mods.

you obviously haven't seen any of anj0o's threads.

the number refers to how much bigger than standard they are. and to put the bigger pistons in, the cylinder needs to be matched to the size of the piston. as for the difference due to sizes, you are slightly changing the capacity of the motor, so you will get fractionaly more power, as you can get more air and fuel into the chamber.

it isn't just commo drivers. i seen people in skylines do things just as stupid. but yes, this guy is a stooge.

ok, well cranked up the old '00 r34 gtr last night. got a 52.936 but can definately go faster. it was about 1am this morning and i was tired as anything. the handling could use some serious tuning though. i reakon just setup how it is i could manage a mid 52. a few laps after i did that best one i was 0.3xx faster at the second split over that 52.936, but i lost it on the last corner. going to try some more cars tonight, such as the amuse carbon r, an n1 gtr, and a rx7. going to try to get to the low 52's, or even a high 51 would be nice.

how quick is the ticking? another thing to check is the belts. make sure they aren't starting to fray.

well for starters the ecu won't let you go above 180. secondly, no it won't break. it will just keep winding around.

the safc2 will set you back about $300-$400 plus a tune. and you would get approx 15-20kw gain from it.

3.5" is half an inch bigger. its a touch noisier, and has more chance on hitting on the body. i run the 3.5". i like the sound. its not overly noisey, and has a good note. and its not droney in the car.

or go to a sticker place or signwriter and get them to make some for you.

listen to this advice. and just jap have the full turbo back x-force kit for about $800.

i'm using the bcpr6es and i'm running 14psi with stock coils. they pop and fart on the very odd occasion, but they are about 7000km old. i'm going to go to the 7 heat range on the new plugs, just to get the heat down.

i just used a 8" neon when i did my 180sx.

where you have the gauge hooked up from won't cause the spiking. the best place to have it running from is actually the wastegate hose. that way you actually see what boost the turbo is running, not just what is going into the motor. things like the intercooler add restriction, so the plenum may see 10psi, but the turbo may be boosting up to 12psi.