mad082

1) go the apexi 2) get one of the cheap turbotech controllers. there is a thread on here called about the $22 boost controller. i use one on my 33 and they work really well. just ask yourself "do i want to spend a few hundred dollars more for something that you couldn't notice the difference on the road with?" there are people on here with big power that still use manual boost controllers. 3) do you want to spend about $400 for a speedo that you shouldn't use? 4) waste of money. do you plan on doing over 180kmh often? 5) yes it is an upgrade. or get a hybrid front mount kit. 6) depends on what you want. 7) good upgrade, but only useful if the stock ones aren't up to the job. 8) go turbo back. x-force do a full 3" kit for about $800 9) waste of money. 10) depending on the wing it could be illegal. and will attract the cops more than the standard one. 11) get NGK BCPR6ES. they are copper plugs and about $3-4 each. heat range 7 is too cold unless you are planning on running over 15psi boost. 7's will foul up with normal driving faster than 6's. since your car is an auto you are best of getting a safc2 and a sitc rather than a new ecu (depending on howmuch power you are after). aftermarket ecu's don't change gears as smoothly as the factory one with piggybacks. the safc2 controls the fuel and the sitc control timing.

holy crap!! $170? i think i will do it myself for that much. i did it to my old 180 and it cost me about $15.

there should also be a tension screw at the top of the bov that should adjust the stiffness of the spring.

if i only fang it up through the gears at high rpm it feels great. i think the problem is that so many people hear that it is bad to run them at high boost that they never do, then just tell everyone that they don't go any better without ever trying it themselves.

it is to do with the heater tap. i'd say it is blocked or faulty.

yeah, they got the smell of a new car, then the smell of someones arse and mixed it up in a big barrel, then sell it off to carwash's.

the hicas in a 32 uses powersteering fluid from the same system as the front, so when you disconnect it, it stops the pump working properly. didn't really explain it well, but its along those lines.

i've tried the 'new car' fragrence at the carwash. smells like new car crossed with arse.

i saw you when racq was there, and when your mate in the xr6 ute pulled up. my and the missus were crossing the road to the servo near where you were. we also followed you along the river going towards sunny plaza. we were in a red ford maverick (patrol)

slightly off topic, i've been running my 33 at 14psi on the stock turbo for a few months now. haven't had any issues. people say they lose power after 12psi due to the turbo being out of its efficiency range, but 14psi feels faster than 12. i put it down to about 11psi for a few weeks, and it just felt dead.

my car had an air freshener in it but i did like the smell of the car. i still smell it after having the car for 6 months. my mates 33 smells similar.

the knock may just be the sensors picking up the ignition noise.

could be an oil seal in the turbo. when it is cold the oil backs up and while the car is still warming it burns the oil out.

i would've put it before the intercooler. that way it isn't affected by cold weather. i had spiking when i had mine off the bov hose. put it before the cooler and it stopped spiking.

price?

get underneath the car to get the bottom 3 bolts off. i just used spanners. if they are too tight to move hit the spanner with a rubber mallet. if you do try that make sure your spanners are good quality or they will snap.

where is the wastegate getting its pressure reading from? when you did the FMIC did you just hook it up off the bov hose?

they are a good option to lean out the stock ecu without spending shitloads. you only want to take it to about 12.0, not 12.5 though.

good chance the flames are due to you 'less restrictive and HIGHLY illegal' lack of a cat.

this is due to the turbo not being spooled up enough to create positive pressure. then once the turbo starts to spool up it goes into positive boost and thats when the power really starts to get made.

drivers airbag was optional on pre 95 model r33s. as were sideskirts. the r32's had differences between the type m and the standard gts-t such as leather gear boot and handrake cover, leather steering wheel and bigger brakes. all of these features are standard on all of the r33 gtst's. the only other reason for the different front bars i have found was that there was an optional front bar for gtst's. for a list of models go here http://imports.motortraders.net/imports/se...p;model=Skyline

i'd be putting it down to the cams changing over, and more air coming out of the motor at high rpm and the wastegate can't handle the extra air.

yeah i think thats the way it goes.

i'd like to know what the AFR's were. i'd say they'd be rather lean.

well it took years for the v8's to grow to the size it is. there is no way that HPI stuff could get to be that big overnight, it would take years.