mad082

LOWNDES WINS!!

i think it is just the fact that the safety cars periods were so long. it took ages to get the rat out of his car, and the drivers were just not staying in the groove. and the track condition is changing while they are under the safety car, so they have to get the car up to temp again while learning the condition of the track. some people just seem to be able to do it much better than others, and the people who can't try to hard.

thats really unsafe! you jump on the brakes and you are essentially only using the front brakes. if i brake hard on rough roads i usually pinch a front brake for a split second. if i had that sort of bias i would be locking the fronts all the time and take longer to stop. the only good thing that sort of bias is good for is power skids. if you are going to upgrade the brakes, do both ends.

no nothing bad will happen. due to the angle of the wires, mine had been half cut through, so the sensor would sometimes come on as soon as i turned the key in the morning. i got sick of the light flashing on every time i hit a bump so i disconnected it.

i have a fibreglass front bar, and my car is lowered. i bought the bar from a wreckers cheap cause it was stuffed. we just patched it up and put it on, but we also reinforced the base of it cause we knew it was going to scrub out. it hasn't cracked yet <touches wood>.

yes you do have to trim the reo and front bar, which you can be booked for.

just so you know, all turbo r33's are type m, except for some of the auto's. i had what is refered to as a non type m bar on my car, but according to FAST my car is a type m. i think it depends on whether the car has ever been in a crash. the non type m bar is actually the sedan front bar.

i'm going to crank it up after bathurst too. i might give some of the rwd cars a go. need to get some more money to spend on cars first. spend most of my money doing up cars the other day.

don't know about the windows. i have a mate who does window tinting. will ask him what he uses.

i'm going to come out after work and have a look. i live up in old G-town.

laughed my arse off when skaife got put in the wall. laughed my arse off again when lowndes said he was watching the big screen while they were showing underneath his car.

i used scratch-x and it works really good too. it lasted a few months before it started to get slightly dirty looking. i put it on a wool buffing pad for the drill. it takes about 20 seconds a light, and saves you a sore arm.

i'd say that the air con isn't working at all. on cold nights what you think is the aircon is just the cold air from outside coming in, and during the day the warm air is just outside air. i'd say the unit is faulty.

i use one of these controllers. the only time i've had spike was just after i put the front mount on and had the controller receiving its reading from the bov hose. took the nipple off the old cooler piping and put it onto the pipe from the turbo to the cooler and the spiking went away. i have an rb25 and i'm running 14psi on the stock turbo (yes i know you shouldn't run them above 12, but it goes much better, and when it goes i have an excuse to get a bigger turbo). i don't get any spiking, but i do have bleed off at high rpm at WOT, but i have put this down to the turbo maxing out rather than the controller. and i'm about to take the controller off to go to an even cheaper setup that should be more reliable again, as it won't be leaking air out of the system at all. i can't see the point in spending hundreds off dollars on a boost controller that most people won't notice any more power from. as for how a controller can make boost build earlier, as the boost builds the wastegate starts to creep open and is fully open by the pressure it is set to. when you put a controller like the turbotech in, its design stops prssure getting to the wastegate until a higher level, so the boost has already started builing when the wastegate starts to open.

how is the response when you step on the gas when you grab the next gear on quick changes when at full throttle? and what boost are you running?

all rb25 turbos are ceramic exhaust wheel. they are good for a max of about 210-220kw. but on a rb30 i don't know what it would be as they would max out earlier due to the extra air coming out. you'd be better with a r34 turbo. or a highflowed r33 turbo.

if you have a stock ecu there is nothing they can tune anyway. i know people that have been quoted $200 for it.

that sounds ok to me. but i have seen the system cheaper. i have seen the full system for about $800 for the 3" mild steel from just jap. but that wasn't fitted and didn't include freight.

and spark plugs and coils. but you probably have to pay just as much for some stuff, and you only get 4 instead of 6.

the way skyline parts are going, it isn't really a cheaper option. sr into r32, definate yes. sr into r33, definate no, unless the sr had serious work done to it.

how is it on gear chages?

could be a dodgy o2 sensor. it could be causing it to run a bit rich.

i much prefer getting a kick out of wasting blinged out cars in my mates beat up sigma that runs 12's.

so are you using the stock rb20, or rb25 turbo? if its the rb20 i think you would be better off with the 25 turbo, as it isn't going to be as close to maxing out... unless you don't plan reving over 5000rpm.

more than likely the AFM. if you know someone with the same car as you, borrow their AFM and see what happens.