mad082

just did a lap with medium race tyres on for the hell of it. god damn that thing is quick. did a 48.294 and it was a pretty messy lap.

i think we have a winner!!!! 52.098!!!!!!!!!!!! on sports tyres!!!!! in a rear wheel drive car!!!!! the gillet vertigo race car '04. mod it full up, leave all the setting stock except for the gear ratios at about 11, traction control at 3, and no NOS and i'd can say for sure that 51's are possible with this car. i have been faster to the second corner than the ghost of that time, but f**k up the entry and run too wide, or cut to sharp and hit the ripple strip.

not sure for the gtr, but heat range of 5 sounds too hot. they might be ok if the car is dead stock, but if you have wound the boost up at all i'd go to a 6.

depending on the car, will depend on how much of a difference it makes. if your avatar is right, you have a rb20e powered car. you probably would notice the power drop. on my missus SSS pulsar (natro sr) you can notice it, and it feels duller. i'd say yours probably isn't much different.

the switch where you turn them on. they have a habit of doing this. they only turn 1 light on at a time. left then right. get a new switch and all should be fine, unless the new switch is dead too.

i saw a few skylines on the sunny coast yesterday. there was a silver 33 parked up on the hill past the skate park at alex heads. then there was a red 32 down near the skate park that had tyres on the back that were too skinny for the rims. i was with my mate, his missus, my missus and my mates little boy in a ford maverick. going to take my line down in a few weeks time and do some cruising.

they are a pain to get to. they are accessed from the inner guards, right next to the headlights. if you have big hands you may have trouble getting to them. if you are replacing them with coloured LEDs be prepared to be pulled over and booked.

exactly. letting it sit on the spot idling creates heat soak, which can raise the temp. if i fan it around close to home i usually just idle around the block to let it cool down.

firstly you have to take off the coil pack cover. then you have to unblot each coilpack. then just unscrew each plug. you may have to remove the intake pipe to get to the middle 2 plugs.

the flutter si due to the vl's not having a BOV. so remove your bov (and just put a plate over the hole) and you will have the same flutter. then welcome yourself to the world of lag on gear changes.

if you go the trust or blitz setup, don't set it up like benigno. you want the pipe that goes under the cooler to be the hot pipe, and the short pipe to be the cold pipe. you want the cold air to have the shortest possible path so it doesn't have time to heat up again. also since cold air is denser, if the cold pipe is longer it will have more lag, since it takes more air to fill up the extra length of pipe.

the first ebay exhaust has no centre muffler so it will be louder than most others. the second ebay exhaust you posted is an x-force, and it is turbo back. it is a good price too. it won't be legal (but then most skyline exhausts aren't) noise wise, but will sound good. i have the 3.5" version and it sounds cool. as for the muffler, there are a few choices in oval mufflers. lukey make a 3" 'megaflow' which is a centre-off centre muffler so it flows well as well as taking noise out, as well as a few others. also x-force do some oval mufflers as well. otherwise try to get a jasma muffler. the best of the jasma mufflers split into 2 inside the muffler then join back up just before the tip. the sound very nice, and are very quiet. i've been in 2 r33's with them and they are extremely quiet, but growl nicely. they are quieter than the jasma muffler that is just a straight through oval.

that one of the dumbest things i have ever heard. i changed the cat back on my old magna and it made it a complete different car to drive. much more response, and much more top end. and did full engine back exhaust and it resulted in about a 20% gain in power. on the stock exhaust it would choke at about 5500rpm, now it revs nicely up to the 7500rpm.

my mate has an r31 with a worked rb30 in it (still only a 3.0L) and it put down 212hp (158kw) out of 1 motor, then another motor put down 185hp (138kw), and another motor was in the 190hp range. he's run a 14.0x in street form, and a high 13 with the exhaust taken off at the cat.

or it could be the fact that in other contries those roads are all trvelling the same direction, not head on. and they are usually toll roads, so not everyone uses them, and they have slower lanes and faster lanes. and the roads like that in NT has little traffic. it isn't like removing the spped limit off the harbour bridge or anything like that.

theoretically the boost pressure shouldn't rise with an exhaust size increase. why? if you start flowing more air out of the exhaust, the turbo will spin faster, and compress more air into the intake. the wastegate should see this and open sooner, but still at the same pressure, slowing the turbo back down. the only way that the pressure could increase is if the wastegate can't flow enough air due to a higher restriction.

if you are after a quieter exhaust, get an oval muffler not a cannon. or if you must have a nice ricey cannon get one with a big body, and small hole. this maximises the amount of noise that can be reduced, but also reduces air flow.

if you are only going to run 10psi i wouldn't bother with a EBC. that is a lot of money to spend to gain a very small amount. i'd get one of the $22 boost controllers. that will bring the boost on earlier.

need to start a challenge using just the 1 car, and no modicications. so we are all using the exact same car, and see who is the best driver.

yes

i think you are right there. i'd say its probably the fuel pressure regulator.

give me a manual boost controller any day. save a few hundred buying it, and a lot easier to setup.

the problem is that the no speed limit areas are there. and you are supposed to do a safe speed for your car, but you'd get any tom, dick and harry in some clapped out piece of crap that should safely go at about 110kmh max, and they try and wind it up to 200kmh.

no you wouldn't notice the difference between a split dump and a bell mouth dump. the dump pipe is the pipe off the turbo. the front pipe goes from the dump pipe to the turbo. the x-force pipe is a 1 piece pipe. it has both in the front pipe. the jjr dump pipe also requires a front pipe.

a safc should get you close to 200kw if you aren't nearly there already.