mad082

thats going to work out much more expensive than the full x-force kit, and not give much of a power difference.

the min amount of boost you can run is what the wastegate was, unless someone comes up with a EBC with a compressor built in to pressurise the air between it and the wastegate to higher than what is in the intake.

what sort of f**k wit came up with hook turns? i'm a northerner and i only know the basics of them. i think you southern people need to get some more warm weather. the cold is affecting your brains, LOL. that is a typical union point of view. so what if the guy has had 50 million accidents. the union wouldn't care if the guy raped little girls, as long as he paid his union fee's they'd stand up for him. the unions are ruining small business. i run a small business, and workers have more rights than i do. if i have a part time employee, after 6 months the law said i had to put them onto full time, whether i could afford to or not.

and most systems are going to be louder than what is legal.

x-force don't do split dump pipes. 3" is fine, 3.5" is also fine. you won't notice much difference. i have the 3.5". i ordered the 3" and they sent a 3.5", so i put that on. hits on the body a bit more than a 3" would.

i agree with kinks. if you want better bite out of the diff get the oil changed, and much sure decent stuff is put in.

i think lanky71 is right. r34gts-t (r34 gt sedan-t)

another thing is if you brake really hard from a decent speed, and stop and sit there for a few mins then the heat from the pads and rotors being so close and hot will warp that spot. i had a similar problem on my old magna. i put new rotors on, after a while they got a bit warped. i got them machined, then after a month or 2 (not much heavy braking) it reapeared. ended up getting new rotors again and that solved it. it seemed to do 1 side more than the other. i think i may have also had a sticky piston that wasn't helping the problem.

the leaner the AFR's the more power it has, to an extent, so yes that would be a major cause of it.

if you look at how much it is leaning out, i could say that thats about right. i got 204kw out of the same mods but with 11psi. straight after i went on my mate went on with his 33. same mods, same dyno operator and he got 175kw. some cars just make more than others.

found the problem. 2 broken manifold studs, and a few others were loose. getting them all replaced tomorrow.

check you turbo and manifold bolts. sounds like it could be a lose turbo.

should also be noted that if you are going to use old pads with new rotors, the pads should be faced so that they wear evenly on the rotor. it is best to put new pads and rotors on at the same time. and they would probably need bedding in.

they came with 184kw (manual gearbox). that is at the flywheel, not the wheels. any power figure quoted by a manufacturer is at the flywheel. and yes they come standard with lsd, but there is 2 types of lsd. most have the standard viscous lsd. some have the active lsd.

my mum bought one of the ones that had the soapy shit all through it. biggest pain in the arse out. i have used a new synthetic one and its not as good as my old one. my old one dries the car completely. it is actually a synthetic one, not leather as i stated in my first post.

what you also have to take into account is that you have a gts 4, which is heavier than a gts-t, and you are running your power through a 4wd system. this takes more power to turn than a 2wd system, so you would have to use slightly higher amounts of throttle to do the same speed as a 2wd.

it could just be sticky. my controller stuffed up one day and i couldn't go above 11psi. i took it apart, gave it a spray with degreaser, put it back together and it works fine now.

this is due to it being squashed to far and it can't release enough boost to stop it going back into the compressor and slowing it down.

yeah the leathers that go hard when left out of the container are the way to go. i use one thats about 15 years old. its alot better than some of the ones these days.

firstly have you checked the fuses? secondly have you checked the rear of the switch to make sure the plugs are in correctly thirdly have you checked where the wires plug into the unit on the back window?

radiator cap and o2 sensor are probably both available from repco/autobarn. the o2 sensor may possibly be the same as the r33, but i don't know for sure. if you know someone with a 33 have a look and compare them. i know the r33 are available from autobarn (i bought 1). it was about $120 for a NGK one. the radiator cap should be a pretty universal item, it would just be getting the one with the right pressure rating so you don't end up blowing your radiator or hoses to bits.

the shift kits just make them change gears quicker. they don't give you more power. as for mods, get a set of extractors, and a full exhaust. that should give you noticable gains, but your car will be noisey. probably louder than a turbo, depending on how many mufflers are in the system. but it will sound sweet. then just something like a safc2 to control the fuel.

yes. 'hard as' 205/55/16's trying to put down over 200kw + 1st gear @ WOT = sideways instead of fowards

yeah there are a few paintless dent removers. they are usually good for getting out hail damage.

could also be a fan belt has started to tear. i had that problem. at idle you could hear it tick, but went away a bit with some more revs. the backing of the belt was coming off and i had been too lazy to change it. once it started doing that i changed it.