mad082

only illegal if they don't have a solid mounting bracket. but that is in qld. in some states you are only allowed 1 intake mod, so either a cooler or a pod, not both.

both interchangable. wrong. the series 2 ignitor is in the coils. i have a series 1 ecu in a series 1.5 motor (series 2 coils) and it works fine.

you can buy proper heat sheilding materials. most exhaust shops would be able to help you out. some stuff if pretty expensive.

i haven't been to the track yet, but on the road if i want to get off the line well i hold it at about 4500rpm, heel/toe the brake (too lazy to use the handbrake) and gas and ride the clutch to friction point to build boost and get the rear to squat. then jump off the brake and let the clutch up, and use throttle control and a bit of clutch slipping to keep it on the fine line between wheelspin and traction.

as it says above, my car has developed a ticking noise under boost. and it isn't just once it hits positive boost, but under moderate aceleration. now before you say 'gasket', here's where it gets a bit weird. it only does it when its cold. once the car has warmed up a bit it goes away. i'm thinking possibly clutch fan, if not that then gasket.

pretty sure the plugs are on the drivers side of the trans. if you get under the car you should be able to see. they are up at the top of the box. make sure the car is cold or you will find out just how hot the gearbox gets. still work checking the bulbs though. it might turn out that there isn't any in there.

or for $5000 i know where there is a 12 second car. people at jamboree would've seen it. blue sigma with a stock sr20 in it (with a slightly shagged turbo). it ran a 12.9. it has run a 12.56. and there is plently left in it as its still on the stock turbo (at 15psi)

the 25 with 250kw is going to much more user friendly than a 20 with it. there'd be less lag, and a more even power spread.

i've had 2 cars insured with just cars now, and been happy both times. when i cancelled the first policy i got a refund of the remaining time. never had to make a claim though.

sir-d has a point there. the big aussie cars are made out of decent amounts of metal, and have a decent amount of room between you and the side of the car, and you and the front of the bonnet.

mine are similar. 50L city = between 250 and 300k's 45L highway = 410kms (with a bit of lead foot city driving, and cruising with the flow of traffic at about 125kmh, in a 100zone)

on the highway i get pretty good economy. i did a trip to brissy and back (about 380k's, with a little bit of WOT with 3 other people in the car (not high speed, just full noise up to the speed limit), and another 30km's of city driving, so 410km all up) and used 45L of fuel = just under 11L/100k's.

because they are idiots. plain and simple. they do it for 2 reasons other than that though. 1. to make it flutter 2. to stop it leaking boost, and make it spool up faster. the down side to blocking off the bov completely is that you have much more lag on gearchanges (unless you don't lift off the throttle). if you have an auto then it is ok to do it, but the immediate response if you lift off then step on the gas again will be slower.

i'd take the aac valve off and give it a clea. you just need some carby cleaner.

just don't be expecting miracle sures from a new o2 sensor. it may help, it may not. if you having a lead foot is the cause it won't help.

you don't have to use 98ron fuel, but it helps. if the car is basically stock you should get away with it, but i'd use 98ron just to be on the safe side.

could just be the rich mapping of the stock ecu. but try cleaning the AFM and see if that helps. just use some electrical contact cleaner.

a good fibreglass guard will cost a bit. but they aren't that strong. they don't dent, they just crack. and once they crack they keep on cracking. sure they do flex a bit first. at the end of the day what you have to weigh up is- 1. price 2. the fact that is someone backs into the guard in a carpark, if it is glass you are going to end up with a big tear in it rather than a dent 3. legallity. i'm not sure if fibreglass guards are legal.

easy way to know for sure if it is fuel smoke is to stick it on the dyno and get the air/fuel ratio checked. your o2 sensor may be stuffed and making it run supper rich.

you run your car on regular? seriously not a good idea. not a good idea at all.

saw something like this on beyond tomorrow a few months back.

ok, i just re-read your post, understand now. but why do you have to set the timing at 650rpm. i never heard that before.

as i said in your other thread, why do you want the idle lower than 650rpm?

how much of a change in fuel pressure was made? and was it up or down. if the pressure was raised then economy would get worse. i get about 350-400k's to about 45L (about 12L/100k's) out of my missus SSS pulsar (natro sr20), and turbo cars chew much more fuel. also they run pretty rich from the factory. just get a remap or a safc2.

why do you want your idle lower than 650rpm?