mad082

where would the fun in that be?

you have a point regarding the equation. i was wondering the same thing about that. i think that is why using a different gear doesn't alter the readout by much. however i think there is still a slight variance in there. and going to bigger wheels gives a taller ratio which will have a small effect on power. but i think more of it probably comes from the weight difference of the bigger wheels. and if it does make a difference, this may play a part in how some people are able to get higher readings from a car running a stock ecu/turbo, other than the usual "happy dyno" call.

^lol might be worth checking the oil and coolant to make sure that you don't have a crack in the block and it is the old oil/coolant milkshake that is leaking. if the oil and water look white then you're up for an expensive fix

how tall are you?

lighter wheels with skinnier tyres will make a difference too, as you are spinning up less weight with less resistance

i think we all need to remember something..................... they all look a metric shit tonne better than a stagea........

you aren't the first person to discover copper plugs being cheaper than iridiums. i was running the heat range 6 plugs of the ones you mentioned (BCPR6ES) 6 years ago when i had my 33 gts-t. the heat range 6 plugs are better for people with minimal mods and are using the car for everyday driving as the colder heat range 7 plugs you are using are a little bit more prone to fouling. the only downside is that they need to be changed more often than the iridiums, which does negate some of the savings.

it's all about the track of the vehicle. if you widen the track of the vehicle by more than the legal limit, then you can be defected. funnily enough, putting uber camber on to make the wheels fit in the guards will widen the track and make the car less legal, plus you will go through tyres more often than you need to change the oil

there is no "or" option. the wheels are illegal so you have to remove them. you could remove them, get the defect cleared then put them back on, but you will just get defected again. could get pretty expensive pretty quickly. so to summarise, you buy the wheels, pay fines, sell the wheels for less than you paid. sounds like an expensive few minutes of looking "cool"......... which you won't, cause to me, stupid offset looks, well, stupid

air locks make the engine temp go up, but if the air is in the heater core then it won't get hot becuase there is no hot coolant getting in there to heat it up, but an air buble shouldn't just stay in the heater when the engine is running

funny thing is though, a poor condition r32 looks much worse than a poor condition r33 or r34. i saw a r32 4 door yesterday, it was a silver one with a black bonnet, average paint work and a massive crinkle along the drivers side rear door. it was just like a skyline shapped beat up vn commodore really, lol. to me the r32 is really starting to show its age and look dated, and there are certainly more and more tired examples of them getting around, and fewer and fewer tidy examples. a bit like the s13. that to me makes me think of a model of car being ugly, rather than a poorly modded one.

Just thought I'd post this up in here in case someone either knows someone who suddenly acquired a lot of bikes (or parts) or someone tries to sell you a bike at a bargain price. I meant to post it earlier in the week. Some may have seen this in the news, or heard about it, but long story short, Trek bikes had a demo trailer broken into in Canberra and a heap of 2013 model bikes stolen (26 bikes, probably about 200k worth). The majority of which aren't on the market yet, so anyone riding around on one stands a very good chance of being caught. Some of the bikes are running parts that also aren't on the market yet (either exclusive to that bike, or just not released yet). more here: http://www.ridemedia.com.au/?p=6658 this pic shows all but one of the stolen bikes

the s1 has an external ignitor and the s2 have the ignitor built into the coils,

the stock setup on the r33 gts-t feeds back into the pipe between the afm and the turbo, so nissan would agree with that idea, lol

the r33 has a bleed screen near the intake plenum. it's on the drivers side of the engine at the front of the plenum. it has a 10mm bolt at the top of it which you open to bleed the system. this is the best way to do it. as for the heater, as above, make sure the temp gauge is reading in the middle of the gauge. for best results with the heater, don't turn it on until the engine is up to temp otherwise the car will take much longer to warm up because it has to heat up much more coolant, plus the fact that the heater works a little bit like a radiator, so it actually cools the engine a little bit. the heater core also takes a little bit of time to properly heat up, so it should pump out some warm air pretty much straight away (if the engine is warm) and should get hotter as time goes on. also for best results, turn the AC off when using the heater (just have the fan going) as the AC will cool the air a little bit. if it was working super well before the radiator change, but not after, then that may be because of 2 things. 1: air in the system, however just driving around with the heater on should bleed it out of the heater system and into the greater cooling system, so the heater should work fine. 2: the thermostat is making the engine run much cooler with the new radiator. if the old radiator was making the car run hot then any issue with the thermostat may have been masked. so just make sure that the car comes up to temp quickly. it may also be that the heat tap isn't opening properly (but because the car was running so hot the hotter coolant made the heater core heat up enough), or the water pump is on its way out.

that's not true. you will get bigger gains from bolt on mods than from a tune alone. you will gain 10 to 20kw from a tune if you have a turbo back exhaust, fmic and the boost raised to about 12psi. you will gain about 30 to 40kw from the bolt on mods.

they certainly have one. all modern cars do. there would probably be some sort of regulation that requires it. it may be that the bulb is blown or the sensor in the tank is faulty. i'm trying to remember where it is in the r33. i have a feeling it may be in the same cirlce as the fuel gauge, rather than being a seperate light like the handbrake light, etc. but if someone has a cluster handy, they could just remove the bulbs at the back and shine a torch through and you would see what each bulb does when you look at it from the front

maybe in the GTR, but certainly not in the GTS-t. i don't mind the r33, except for the 4 door. nissan really dropped the ball on the 3 door r33. and i prefer the look of a bog stock r33 gts-t to a bog stock r32 gts-t. the r32 looks good with an aftermarket front bar (or a GTR front bar), but the stock GTS-t bar looks pretty ordinary (in the same way that the stock GTS r33 bar looks ordinary). but it is always good to remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. some people think commodores and falcons look good (and some certainly do), and others think a r32 look better than a r34. it's all personal taste. no point arguing with people over it.

did the coils make any difference at all? there is always the chance that they were no better than the ones you replaced. the ignitor is also worth looking at (if it is a serious 1 r33) if possible, if you have a mate that also has a r33 you could try swapping parts with his car and seeing if you can isolate the problem part

have you tried spraying it with some lube (preferably a lube designed to penetrate) and let it soak for a few hours first?

as above, yes you will gain power, and a bit of economy too, from a tune. it isn't NEEDED though. and yeah, a nistune is the nest bang for your buck ecu you can get for your mods. pretty much any other ecu with as much tunability (or more) will cost you about twice as much.

i tow my tinny with my SSS pulsar. it does the job fine (sits on 100kmh fine), but you know it's there. i've towed a trailer with furniture and stuff on it as well. does it fine around town too. having said that though, depending on how much stuff you have, and how bit it is, you may fit it in the back of a commodore or falcon wagon without having to use the trailer. with the rear seats folded down you can fit in a heap of stuff. not to mention being super comfy. i have a VT wagon as my daily drive. i drive just under 65km each way to and from work every day.

people often try and use physics from NA cars on turbo cars, and it doesn't work. and technically speaking, back pressure is a bad thing on any car. it is just an unwanted byproduct of having an exhaust the right size to maintain the scavenging effect on a NA car.

doesn't make much difference to performance. you could go back to a 3" or 3.5" exhaust and notice no difference in power. may notice difference in noise though (depending on mufflers, etc).

as above, there isn't really any difference between the physical mounting of the bars (reinforcment bars are a bit different though). so they can be swapped across easily, but also as said above, due to the difference in headlights, etc, they don't fit up quite right.