mad082

the screech, if not a belt squeal, may be the starter motor sticking and not disengaging properly once you let the key go. as for the turbo whine, it's not just the usual induction noise that you are hearing? maybe google a few videos on youtube of turbos spooling to see if any have a similar noise to yours

you should have roughly 10L of fuel left in the tank once the light comes on. in the case of my commodore though, i drove from gympie to noosa (just over 60kms) with the light on and then filled up to find i still had about 10L left in the tank. in the pulsar though, the light comes on fully with about 8L to go, but starts coming on then going off at about 11L to go. back on topic though, if you want something RWD with better fuel economy than a skyline or supra, then get a silvia. the SR20 is a more fuel effecient motor.

Rather than start a new thread, thought I'd just continue with this one. The search function on the mobile site bites the big one. It gives the results of the search only as threads, but when you click on the thread with the result it just takes you to page one. Would be nice if it took you to the post that had what you searched for

Saw a silver r32 (i think gtr) with no wing and black wheels at the lights on duke St in gympie this morning. Plates ended in jjd i think. Saw it yesterday morning near woolies. Very tidy.

Might be worth stating where you are, or asking in your states section of the forum. But there are many mechanics who specialize in imports, and many normal mechanics who can work on them. At the end of the day, they aren't anything mystical, so any competent mechanic should be able to do regular work on it.

3" exhaust is way too big for a na skyline

not really. you can tell whether it has s1 or s2 coils just by opening the bonnet. you don't even need to remove the coil valley cover. if your engine has this at the back of the cover, near the firewall, then it is an s1 motor

my guess is that more people are getting hit because more idiots have ipods, or are playing on their phone and step out into traffic before looking to see if any cars are coming.

your timing will bounce around a little bit. that is normal. the raw fuel and flames may be caused by the timing being physically out (such as a jumped tooth on the timing belt), but it may just be that there is a more simple reason. i'm guessing that your catalytic converter is probably hollow (as that allows flames a lot more), but it may also just be that you have a fuel supply issue, caused by a fouled injector, AFM reading wrong, or an intake leak. or possibly even something like the thermostat not closing properly (causing the car to run too cold) can affect the fuel economy. if the car takes more than about 5 mins of driving for the temp needle to start to get to around the middle of the gauge (or it never does and only stays around the bottom of the gauge) then start by replacing the thermostat and you will find that the car runs better and uses less fuel. how many litres are you classing as "a tank" as that will give a better indication of your fuel economy and just how rich it is running. your driving style will play a big part. i used to only get about 17L/100kms out of my r33 gts-t, but i had a bit of a lead foot. regular boosting, etc.

maybe try ecutalk....................

to say that people are getting ripped off paying $80 for an aussie made product is wrong. that's like saying that anyone who employs an australian worker is getting ripped off paying their employee $16 an hour when in china you can get people who work for $1. on a lighter note, it looks like an ok unit.

search. it has been covered many times. as for the front bar, given that the S2 would probably look much different to yours, wouldn't it be obvious that yours needs a series 1? most body parts are S1 (other wing). interior is S1 (although there are some differences). coil packs are S2, as is AFM and TPS. that pretty much covers most of it.

the fact that it's made in 1995 is pretty much the key factor here. the majority of 95 model r33's are series 1.5 (not an official series though. they are technically just a series 1, but they run a mix of s1 and s2 parts and that's why we refer to them as series 1.5).

i had a magazine that mentioned this model but lost it a bit before i joined up here way back when. i mentioned this model (not knowing exactly what it was) and had heaps of people tell me i was wrong, that it didn't exist or that i must've been talking about a GTR model. good to see all these years later that i was right.

fusion green (that green you see on VE commodores) r32 parked across from subway in gympie this morning

if the starter motor is loose then that may be the cause of the issue as it may be pushing away from the flywheel. i'd start by tightening it up and then see what it does. they are a bit of a pain to get to, but not that bad. even just getting one of the bolts tight (and the other finger tight) should be enough to see if that is the issue

the main point we are all making is that it will be noticably slower than a factory non turbo skyline, for the simple fact that the engine is running much less compression. so that, and the fact that other people have done this and put it on the dyno and made about the same power as a hyundai excel. however the condition of the engine comes into play a bit. a very healthy DET will have similar compression to a rather unhealthy DE. however an unhealthy DET (that may still seem ok to drive with the turbo still attached) will be well down on compression compared to a healthy DE (to the tune of about 30%)

yeah the EX can't do much. you were given permission by both the child and the legal guardian. the first thing you are asked when filing an assult charge is "did you give the person permission to <insert claimed assault>?" had this question asked to me when giving a statement after being a witness to an assault (although in that case it was asking whether the victim gave permission). unless of course the way you removed the tooth was to punch the kid in the face........

eagerly awaiting time slips. my guess is that it's going to be in the mid 16's at best. if it's any quicker then the engine was probably originally a DE that had a turbo bolted to it, which was then removed.

Yeah well if you want a 3.5" system then you have to accept that you won't get an exhaust as quiet as a stock 2.5" system. That's pretty obvious.

don't pay too much attention to other peoples fuel economy. individual driving circumstances, etc will always come into play. plus things like individual speedo error, engine condition, etc, comes into play as well.

the same place as any other F1 race, the pits. when it comes to passing, F1 is much more boring than tin top racing because the amount of downforce lost once they get close to the car in front just makes it so much harder for them to pass. as i've said before, the car behind can catch the car in front by a second or 2 a lap, but once they get withing a second of the car in front they often get stuck and take half the race to get past without binning it. tin top racing they can sit right behind the slower car and just sneak down the inside, or bump their way past.

you sure you didn't have a mechanical issue? if you're using 30 to 40% more fuel then that isn't right

there are plenty. any exhaust shop could sell you about 10 different ones that would, but few people would want them on their imports as a: they aren't fully hektic cannons, and b: they aren't a straight through type (so don't flow as well). but even a decent flowing muffler used with a decent centre muffler will give you exhaust levels below the legal limit. a non performance orientated muffler will be built in the same way as a stock one and give the same level of noise attenuation

depends on type of driving and driving style, but it certainly won't be 2-3L/100kms different. flooring it everywhere may be 1/2L to 3/4L worse, highway would be less