mad082

the best economy i've gotten out of the missus SSS was 6.5L/100kms, but after driving it to work the other day, it reminded me just how much more comfy the seats are in the commodore. and the general driving position for that matter. not as nice/fun to drive, but much more comfy

loose bolts: well that's normal. engines vibrate and nuts/bolts may come loose, especially if they weren't checked after a day or 2 of driving after installing new parts (things can sometimes settle into place and bolts/nuts need to be re-tightened), especially when talking about exhausts where the metal heats and cools (and therefore expands and contracts) as for the dodgy welding jobs, are you sure they were actually done by the workshop in question and not by the previous owner or one of his mates? it's not really worth complaining unless a: you know for sure it was a workshop's dodgy work, and b: you were the one who paid for the work.

so are you wanting to run your car on LPG to save fuel? think about this. you are willing to spend a heap of money converting the car to LPG to save a few dollars a week on fuel. sit down and think about how long it will take before you actually start saving money. you would be better off spending the money on a cheap 4 cylinder

saw a white r33 gts-t coming out of venture drive in noosa yesterday. had a dealer plate. i think i've seen it parked around the corner outside the RACQ workshop. i was getting the work signs off the footpath as it took off. made me miss my 33

just use your electrics (tps, coils, afm, etc) and it will be fine.

for the cat back part of the exhaust, any exhaust shop that isn't run by monkeys will be able to make you up a decent exhaust to suit your needs.

and there is an option to have it automatically add the space when you lift. i have it turned off though, so that if you try to type a long word that is made up of 2 words but it doesn't like recognising it, you can just swype the 2 words seperately.

yeah it's a mix of more torque, taller gearing, inertia and general physics. most large cars are generally detuned quite as they are designed to be good at highway cruising (hence why plenty of falcadores will get better economy on the highway than a more highly strung natro skyline). and the fact that the amount of extra power required to hold an extra few hundred kgs at 100kmh isn't that much. so not much extra fuel is required.

talk to the person who will be tuning your car. if they are more confident with one type of ecu compared to another, then go with that. at the end of the day, the quality of the tune makes a bigger difference than the quality of the ecu

it isn't just the iphone site, it's the mobile site. android users have the same problem.

i just use the swype keyboard on my galaxy s2. as long as you get the settings right, it's very good.

have seen a purple r32 (i think GTR) with the plates U LOSE going past work a few times during the week. could normally hear it coming as the driver seemed to be doing a good job of enforcing the media's view of import drivers (although not as much as some others that come past work)......

i used some in my vt commodore (had about 210,000kms on the clock at the time, and has nearly 245k on it now). other than making it smoke like a sumbitch when i started the car again (until it burnt it all away), it didn't actually do much. i pulled the intake plenum off afterwards and it was still sort of caked on so i scrubbed it clean with some carby cleaner and degreaser. didn't make any difference to how the car drove though.

try getting a better quality muffler (such as an oval shaped muffler), and look at getting a middle muffler put in.

is there still an error code showing after replacing the AFM? did you replace it with the right AFM?

i think you guys read his post wrong. his speedo is reading faster than what he is actually doing. putting bigger wheels on makes the speedo read slower. from stock the speedo will read a bit higher than your actual speed. pretty sure they are required to do this by law. i wouldn't be too fussed about fixing it. just think of it as your speeding fine insurance. you know that you can sit at, or just above the speed limit without having to worry about getting booked.

the stock boost gauge is pretty innaccurate

ahaha, i know what you mean. i'm starting to feel like a minority in my commodore..... ans spotted a 33 heading south on the highway south of gympie (at the roadworks). it had a headlight out and a tail light out as well

maybe if you like to tailgate and jump hard on the brakes everytime you need to come to a stop. i have to do some somewhat moderate braking down a 1km long 10% descent everyday on my way to work. i'm using the stock brakes with unknown pads (probably cheap ones) and the brakes only have a minor shake after doing this trip at least 4 days a week since march last year. sure it's no gts-t/gtr skyline when it comes to stopping, but it does the job of a daily just fine. same goes for the handling. if you spend the majority of the time sitting at highway speeds in a straight line for hours, how the car handles through tight corners isn't much of a concern.

buy yourself a boost gauge and then you can see exactly what pressure the boost is set at. even just a $50 one will do the job. and i have to ask, why did you buy a car without knowing what exactly you were buying? not to make fun of you, but you bought your first turbo car, it is modified but you don't know how. you would be best of contacting the person you bought the car off and asking them what boost pressure it's running, and what mods are done.

my boss found out a small issue with IOS today. he isn't that tech savy so he has never updated the OS. he went to download an app that both me and the other guy at work have on our android phones. turns out that because he doesn't have the latest IOS he can't download it without updating. that's where android has an advantage. you can be running older versions and still be able to get apps. of course there will be some examples where you can't (for example if the app requires android 2.1 as a minimum for the flash player), but generally speaking it's more backwards compatiable.

you won't really use any extra fuel with the 95, it may just ping a bit under load (depending on a few variables)

saw a gun metal grey one today driving past work (toyota dealership is about 200m up the road). they are a really nice looking car on the road. might get one as a daily when i win lotto.....

it could be that the timing belt has jumped a tooth. i've seen some pretty weird stuff happen with cam timing that is out. a mate had a CA18 with a broken cam (so timing was variable, LOL). yo ucould get it to blow flames by pumping the accelerator at about 2000rpm. it was also a slug at times. sometimes it would drive fine, other times it felt like you had your foot hard on the brakes (this also resulted in it making full boost by about 1500rpm).

+1 for big aussie 6. mainly commodore or falcon. seats in the magna/380 aren't quite as nice (not sure on the aurion/camry but the mid 90's ones were like a park bench). as i've said in other threads, i drive a vt wagon 60kms+ each way to work everyday. i have a bad back and don't have any issues with it. having tilt adjust seats as well as reach adjust steering really helps. fuel economy is good. even with over 240,000kms on the clock i'm still getting mid 8's/100kms. as to whoever said the pulsar, while i generally agree, if you are tall you may find it a bit cramped on leg room on longer drives. the seats in the SSS are pretty good. but the leg space gets to me a bit after about an hour, unless i put the seat back a bit further, but then the reach is a touch far. reach adjust steering would solve this, but generally only family cars have that. if my back isn't playing up i can do 4 hours pretty comfortably, but still nowhere near as nice as my wagon.