mad082

shim will only work for a little while. weld or new diff are the only solutions

yeah just too lazy to buy a new one

only been married to him since october last year too. had a look at her results in DTM. pretty ordinary. certainly not worthy of a f1 drive. barely worthy of even just being taken round in the 2 seater f1 car, lol

this. the bulb is in the car so you can look for yourself and see what the bulb is

buy locally. you will struggle to get a half decent r33 imported for 10k. and unless you specifically want the look of the series 2 r33, i'd widen your search to include earlier r33's as you will be able to pick up tidy ones well inside your budget

ok a few things, there will be a big difference in the value of cars that are the same. you may get 2 r34's, both manual, etc that are vastly different in price. a lot of this will come down to general condition of the car. some will also come down to one owner being more eager to sell his car than the other. as for the auto vs manual price difference, there will always be a difference in price. the 18k manual one is at the upper end of the price range. you will certainly find cheaper ones around. unless you could get the auto for a lot less than 11k i wouldn't bother doing a conversion. for starters, parts will cost you a few thousand dollars to do it properly. will still cost you a few grand to do a half arse job. then there is all the dicking around with getting the wiring sorted so that the ecu uses the right maps (most people don't do this). i would also say the same thing about importing a car vs buying locally. don't bother importing. buy locally. that way you can personally go and inspect the car, take it for a drive and see what it's like. you can inspect the body, listen to the engine and get a general feel for what sort of condition it's in rather than just taking someone elses word for it. you may also want to do plenty of research of running costs and maintainence costs of a turbo car before you get too far in the process. things like how expensive insurance will be (a lot for a young driver), running it on premium unleaded, regular oil changes, etc. plus the cost of fixing common problems such as failing coil packs. they aren't for everyone.

yeah unplug the CAS, or the injector harness (at the end of the injector rails). or both

try a new fuel filter. is there any kind of EGR (exhaust gas return) on the car? it may be that it needs to be cleaned out. i know that is a common issue with the natro sr20's. also try unplugging the o2 sensor and seeing what that does. finally, is the car auto or manual?

yeah that's the one. used to live on rifle range road across the road from my grandparents place. i think the guy who owns it works at ford/nissan/mitsubishi.

i have it drop out all the time when doing updates over wifi (router boots it off. router is a piece of junk. restarts itself every few hours). this time i had it connected via ethernet and it was when it was installing one of the updates that it got an error, not a connection issue.

yes there is an aftermarket option, but the cost is high. i'd try nissan.

sounds like it may be a spark plug/coil issue, or a fuel issue (leaning out)

i had to reformat my ps3 today. reinstalled gt5 (twice due to it being stupid). then had to download all the updates. fuck me that was a pain in the sphincter. about 2gb to download all of them. after downloading and installing half of them an error occured. even though it had installed 5 of the updates, because of the stupid way it does it, i had to start all over again. 2 of the updates that it had already installed were 608mb and 1192mb, which it had to download again. so it took about 5 hours all up to install and update. really wish they would allow you to download the game updates on a pc to the install via usb, like you can with system updates. would mean that you could just download each new update as it gets released and then if you have to reinstall the game you can just plug in a usb stick and apply all the updates from that.

won't blow up from having no compression. may blow up from having to rev it out to redline everytime you take off in order to keep up with the granny in front of you in her yaris. the stock rb20de makes 114kw at the flywheel. a DET with no turbo would probably make about 85kw at the fly if you're lucky.

no point comparing an s15 and any new car. they are aimed at 2 totally different markets. if they were going to struggle then mazda wouldn't have had as much success with the mx5, and they wouldn't have even bothered with the rx8. the majority of people who will buy (buy probably isn't the best word as i'd say a fair few will be leased so they can claim it on tax) this car won't even look at the second hand market when shopping for cars. lots of them probably don't even keep their cars till the end of the warranty. plenty of middle age businessmen will buy them as weekend toys. they aren't the type to buy a 15/20 year old import.

won't find shit. the oil companies will simply say that they are refining it more than they used to to give better performance, or some such crap. or they will say that since fuel prices are higher they are selling less of it so the cost of producing it vs amount sold doesn't allow it to be sold for the same price difference that it used to. and besides, some fuel companies are still selling 95 octane premium so they have to have a bit of a price difference between the 3 fuels. not quite as much as there is, but there would need to be some sort of price difference

well either they have massive amounts of kms on the engine and are flogged out (possibly flogged out auto gearboxes), or your mates can't drive. in healthy condition and driven decently they would beat you. as for the SSS, most people on here know my feelings about them, lol.

yeah i really don't know how much of an answer you will get on here. not exactly something that gets covered much. hope you get it worked out though

there are certainly plenty of 15 second examples out there. to say that there would only be milliseconds difference in possible performance is silly. when i took my magna to drags there was a 0.7 between my best and worst run. started the night with a 15.5 second run, ended the night with a 14.8 second run. had i had better tyres i would've probably seen a 14.6. oh and FYI, the magna was about 160hp (at the wheels) and about 1450kgs

how good was whincup's spin in sunday's race? spun, kept the boot in, looped it round then drove off like a BAWS. last time i saw someone do that was (from memory) glen seaton at adelaide. got tagged coming onto the back straight, did a full 360 and kept on driving. was probably still doing 60kmh when he was spinning

massa would win all the points without trying.

the RB20DET uses the same shifter as the 25DET. just did a bit of searching through ebay and one listing of a short shifter (didn't take notice of brand) had it fitting r32, r33 and r34, but it said it wouldn't fit NA models. so i'd say they must be different

plus the power from the autech is up in the rev range, so bog it down a bit off the start and the commodore will be goooooooooone. same sort of principle applies between the 141kw corolla vs a SSS pulsar. 35kw difference in peak power, but in the real world they are about as fast as each other.

LOL. guy with a black 34 has moved into the units 2 doors up from my place (in gympie)

why not put them on the back then? or do you already have wider rims on the back?