mad082

as i said in an ealier post, if someone is only going to tow a few times a year then they are best of with a car that suits them for the 99% rather than the 1%. a falcon with stop more safely in the wet when not towing than a 4wd, is less likely to roll, etc, so if towing is a rarity then they would be better off with something more suited to daily driving.

there is a 5 speed auto option. however the 4 speed runs a lock up torque converter which will make it sound like it is changing gears 4 times. my 4sp auto VT commodore does it. the torque converter will lock in in 3rd gear, which sounds like a 3rd gear change and then it will change into 4th

if it was on a forum then don't trust it too much. probably either lying about mods, or bought the car with mods and doesn't know it (person he bought it off might've bought the car with mods) and a clutch dump is only good if you have sticky tyres. if you don't then you are best off riding the clutch a bit.

are you parked on the flat or on a slope? if parked on a slope then that will most likely be the cause. if not, just go for a drive and see what it does.

neither is the WOT switch. they are both just TPS sensor wires. the ecu just goes off the voltage for WOT. you would need to install a switch yourself that simply gets triggered by the accelerator pedal. it isn't that hard once.

i've seen worse cars tow a car trailer

you won't be so keen once you start and realise that they are just money pits.

for a stock EF xr6 to get into the 14's it would need super sticky tyres. my guess is that it wasn't stock. having said that, if it had had a headgasket replaced in the past and had the head shaved (which usually happens) then it would have a slight compression increase resulting in more power. my theory is that that's why some skylines seem to be able to make 200kw on mild mods easier than others.

yeah it all comes down to towing frequency vs daily driving. if you are towing on a regular basis, then go for the better tow car. if you are going to tow 3 or 4 times a year then go for something that will suit you better for daily driving (comfortable, nicer to drive/park, cheaper running costs).

i felt the same thing when i went in a mates BA xr6t with a mild tune. doesn't have that lag that gives you the impression of speed when the boost comes on. you just put your foot down the all of a sudden the scenery is going by much faster. i also got the impression that there was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more potential in the motor. it just felt really lazy, unlike my 180sx and r33 that felt like they were working hard reasonably hard, even when mildly stock. yeah will just have to get used to getting heaps more wheelspin off the line. when i ran the magna at the drags i had low profile 15" tyres (205/50/15 vs the stock size 205/65/15) and wheelspin was shocking. even when grabbing second gear. that is part of the reason why i was crossing the line well into 4th gear. speedo was showing about 170kmh, but trap speed was only around 93mph

i think you will find that you are pretty much at the limit of what you can do without more serious power upgrades. raising the rev limit won't do much unless you can have your car still make decent power at that rpm. a lot of cars power sort of falls off a cliff very quickly once you get up in the revs, so you don't see any gains. i think you will need to start grabbing 4th gear, possibly a bit earlier than you may initially thought was ideal. when i did the 14.8 in my magna that was crossing the line at about 93mph in 4th gear (was maxing out 3rd well before the line) the other option is to go up a profile size in your tyres. this will alter your final drive ratio by a small amount, increasing your top speed by a fraction. it will affect your acceleration a little bit though (bugger all difference though).

that makes it even moreso the car to have, LOL

don't overestimate how much bouncing on the limiter will slow you down. not saying you won't get there with a tune, but you are probably only losing 1mph, maybe 2. in most cases the speed will still increase slightly even while still on the limiter.

as above, the engine light is usually caused by failing coilpacks in a 34. a quick search will show you how to do a fault code check. my money is on it being coilpack related.

that doesn't mean the insurance company valued it at that. might've been worth 10 to 15k before it got a nice new paint job, etc. and if you read my above post where i talked about the damage to my mothers car, it was a 2000 model corolla. the damage was all in one small area and the repair bill was $16,000.

low profile tyres would've been hurting his launches

yeah you can get tunes that pass EPA testing. not sure if it has to be in the stock ecu (nistune) or whether it can be on any ecu.

yeah it's a myth in QLD (one the cops aren't exactly going out of their way to dispell the myth though). only time you get double points in QLD is if you are booked for the same sort of offence twice within (i think) a 12 month period

as a few people said, a repairable write off isn't always a bad thing. all it means is that the damage was more than the car was worth. doesn't mean the car was totally shagged. i'll give you a simplified example. lets say you have a datsun 120Y. the insurance company values it at $1000. someone backs into into the car in a carpark and breaks both tail lights and bends the bumper and puts a small scratch on the boot. you take it to a panel beater and they quote you $1500 to fix. you file it with your insurance company. instead of paying for the repairs they might just file it is a repairable write off and give you the $1000. another real world example. my mum was hit in the rear 1/4 panel. the only damage done was to the bumper, tail light, fuel filler neck and rear 1/4 panel (dent and deep scratch about the size of a shoe box). the insurance company initially wrote the car off, before deciding to repair it.

decent tyres (and launch) would see it into the 14 second bracket. bit suprised at the MPH as well. would be interesting to know what power the SSS is putting out. that may explain a few things.

something about "jazz hands" would've been more appropriate, lol

As above, as long as the octane rating is fine then E10 is fine. i've been running the 94/95 octane stuff (so basic E10) in my cars (nothing turbo) for ages with no issues.

i think that a lot of mechanic workshops can do it. don't think they need to be a specialist. again, they are something that is used in lots of cars (different types, but same principles) so any decent workshop with the gear should be able to sort it out for you.

oil shouldn't really have made a difference to warm up time. but no, it shouldn't be a bad thing

trapster is ok, but the info is only good if someone has already gone past the location and posted it. you could have a speed camera set up for hours, but if no other trapster users go past then it won't show up on the app.