mad082

Yeah, plus 4cyl rego is cheaper than 6cyl rego. I work between 4 and 6 days a week and drive about 125km (round trip) to and from work everyday. The Commodore got about 8.8l/100kms, the mirage gets just over 6l/100kms (best I've gotten was 5.7l/100kms).

No, I replied to the guy who dug the thread up.

I actually said that to him a few months back when I met him at work. We were talking and a regular customer (who claimed to be a major fan, yet didn't even know he was now racing for porsche), asked him what he was doing this year and mark started telling him that he was racing wec for porsche and mentioned le mans. I chipped in with "hopefully it goes a bit better than last time you raced there". I laughed, mark chuckled, and the customer/mark webber fan didn't get it, lol.

The post you just responded to is from 2011.

Haven't owned a magna in about 5 years or so. Currently have a vt Commodore (which is for sale) as it's been replaced by a ce mirage. I drive 130kms (round trip) to and from work each day, so the mirage saves me about $4 a day on fuel.

Yep. Whoop-dee-doo basil....

Quality post.....

There is a few things you can do. First, reset your odometer everytime you fill up, then just run it till the needle is pretty much spot on the empty line. Then take note how many litres it takes to fill it. Then you can work out your average economy and then work out how much further you could drive based off how much is generally left in the tank when the needle is on the empty line. This method will give you an accurate way to calculate how much fuel you've used and how much is left down to a few litres. Much more accurately than any fuel gauge as they can work in funny ways depending on tank shape. For example, I've had 2 cars where I could drive close to 150kms before the gauge moved from full, yet my current car will be down to 3/4 after that distance, but yet the last 1/4 (from 1/4 to the empty line) I can do close to 300kms. But I don't see what the problem is really. Just fill up when you want/need to. It makes difference to whether you fill up with 20l left or 10l left. Your economy will be the same, and in the long run it still costs the same.

A bench grinder with polishing wheel will make the last step of the process much easier and faster.

Yes. Post your vin number in the Nissan fast thread. It will also be on your import plate, but they aren't always accurate

There is probably a small break in the element which is why it isn't working

Of course. My bad.

Injector issue?

If it was totally dead it wouldn't change gears. Well at least that was the case when I unplugged the tps in my Commodore trying to diagnose a miss a while back

It's pretty safe to say that it's going to be the line. He's already stated a few times that he tried bleeding the system on the dodgy side with the caliper off and it wasn't pumping much fluid out. I'd start by looking for any kinks in the metal line. I've driven a car with a kinked brake line and you could turn corners by taking your hands of the steering wheel and just jumping on the brakes, lol. Trying to blow some air back up the line may help if there is a blockage at the start of the line. If there is though, you'd want to then blow out the other line too so it doesn't get blocked. Do the fronts have one line out of the master cylinder that then splits, or is it 2 straight out of the master? Cause if it's 2 then the blockage may be in the master still.

It may possibly be the tps, since it can make the gearbox do funny things. If it had a sudden spike in voltage then it would think you had floored it and make it drop back a gear.

Wouldn't a vacuum leak also cause higher revs on a map sensor engine? What about a dodgy tps? Or even a dodgy injector or fuel pressure reg?

As ben said, if you're running sock ecu then stick to stock injectors or it will run like arse and you'll just waste fuel. If you're still running the stock turbo then stick with the stock injectors as you don't need the bigger injectors. Save putting in the bigger injectors until you plan on putting a bigger turbo on and then just do it all then.

One or 2 people have done it, but not many and I'm not sure whether they are on this forum. I know there's someone on the forum with a 5l v8 in his r33. It would probably help a bit if you said what you are actually putting it into

Just make tyre size directly related to power. The more power you have, the skinnier the tyres you get. The engineers may have to design the cars with a bit more steering lock then, lol.

I would've thought you would've had "another 2 cylinders" on your list. And rocket launchers. Or at least paintball guns given to some people positioned at each corner.

Yeah. I don't think making pit stops faster is really a good thing. It's just going to lead to more mistakes, unless they are planning on having automated wheel changing machines and not having humans do it. I was going to say "no, that's the v8 utes" but they are more of a destruction derby.

Just buy a new one from eBay or an import wreckers, or the for sale section of the forum

Your local signwriter

that could be the issue. But by the sounds of it both the high beam and low beam are just the one bulb, which isn't right for both the s1 and s2