mad082

only if they didn't have insurance, which is highly unlikely as for the damage, it looks like there could be close to that sort of amount of damage. as people have said, it isn't just the bar, but the reo bar, that black grill thing in the bar probably has broken clips and i wouldn't be suprised if the exhaust is bent too. there is also the chance that the reversing sensor wiring is damaged.

just stick with the rb25. while the sr20 is a decent motor, it is lacking in torque compared to the rb25. the weight difference isn't that much when you look at power to weight ratios of the entire car. cost wise it's probably a lot cheaper to use the rb25, and i dare say a lot easier to do the conversion. using the 6 speed would also result in you having to change gears more often than the 5 speed, and when sitting on the highway the actual revs it sits on at the speed limit won't be that much different.

so you are saying that if you detune a car you will use less fuel? like to see you explain that one. go and back your timing right off and see how your fuel economy goes. or lower your compression. it isn't really that much different to adding the weight of a loaded trailer onto the car to ruin the fuel economy. or even just loading the car up with a heap of weight. you are altering the power to weight ratio which affects how much fuel is required to move the car. modern cars are a prime example of how higher tuned engines are more fuel effecient. things like the modern falcons and commodores are heavier and more powerful than the older version yet more fuel effecient. in most cases, more power = more effecient use of fuel, so less fuel is required to make the same power. and when you factor in that it takes a set amount of power to move a car at a specified speed, the engine that runs the most effecient (makes the most power from the smallest amount of fuel) will give the best fuel economy. you might also want to tell the thousands of tuners around the world who take stock ecu's and lean them out (make them use less fuel!!!) and raise the timing, resulting in both more power and better fuel economy, that they are doing it wrong. obviously if you lean it out past stoichometric levels then you will start losing power and getting better fuel economy (as shown in many racing categories such as f1, v8 supercars, etc), but this comes at the expense of engine life. another prime example of less power = more fuel is e85. now yes, diesels are somewhat of an exception to the rule given that they have no throttle body and simply inject more fuel to make more power, so most of the above means very little, however the fact still remains that it takes a set amount of power to move a car at a given speed. the amount of power required is different for every car because of so many variables, but for a set car in set conditions if you get 2 identical engines running 2 different levels of tune, the engine that is more effecient in how it makes its power will give the best fuel economy and most power. this is why modern engines, both diesel and petrol, are able to make so much more power than the older versions without using 2 or 3 times as much fuel.

it's not like this is the first time the police have set up a defect station down the road from something like this. they've done it plenty of times before and will do it plenty more times in the future.

that civic must have a bit of work done to it (or possibly an engine conversion from something like an integra or prelude), as well as some sticky tyres don't suppose you've taken any notice of the trap speeds of it?

yeah, 2 pack requires a booth and breathing apparatus if you care for your health. certainly not worth it for some doing a minor touch up or painting something like a grill or mirror.

sounds like some threads in the past that may or may not have been made by female members planning outrageous builds and are more posting to brag than for actual advice..... lol on topic though, it sounds like an extremely expensive build. for starters, if you can't do the metal work yourself then the cost of carving out the old guards and stitching in the new ones won't be cheap. plus painting costs. then there is the case of sourcing the guards. are you going to buy a written off car to cut the old ones out of, or buy new panels? if you want to do it then by all means do it. if it was me than my first step would be a simple photoshop to see if it's going to look any good. sure it isn't going to be 100% true to life, but it'd be good enough to give you a rough idea of whether it's going to look like arse or not. you just need to be somewhat accurate with placement and size.

i think that a better way to say it is that replacing the stock cat is probably best off doing before the dump pipe, although doing them both at the same time is the best option, and given that you can get basic 3" cats from under $200 that are more than fine, it isn't that much more expensive to go that way.

as above, no you can't. but then there is no real reason to. it is perfectly fine to run that extra 1psi of boost. it won't cause any problems.

given that the replacement alternator you bought was second hand, you can't rule out it just being on it's last legs and nothing more. having said that, doing what carbon 34 said wouldn't be a bad thing to rule out other possible issues.

even the 25kw or so gain just from the nistune is somewhat questionable. the 121kw or whatever it was (too lazy to scroll up) seems roughly right for a tuned power output, but the 96kw original power run seems somewhere between 5 to 15kw too low.

yeah, no. as for CAI's, don't bother spending too much money on it as the gains are minimal (mostly in the drivers head). on a modern car that already has a bit of a CAI from factory, the gains are only a matter of a few kws. in a lot of cases i wouldn't be suprised if there is no gains.

yeah but you also get plenty of muppets that go to these events, never participate, but then proceed to bomb up skids as they leave the car park. i've seen this happen plenty of times at all types of events from test and tunes to skidpan days to top level motorsport events. so you can't really blame the cops for targetting an obvious location.

sorry to point holes in your theory, but if they were underpowered then they would use more fuel as you would have to floor it everywhere. my boss has a 4wd TD hilux that's a few years old (probably mid 00's) with over 200,000kms on the clock. i took it for a drive a few months ago and was suprised at how well it went. as for why they get better economy than a pootrol, it may have something to do with them weighing a few hundred KG's less and a smaller engine. to say that it "easily gets 7.0 to 7.5L/100kms" in your first post is more what he was refering to. it doesn't easily get that, but it is possible. some flat highway driving and most modern 6 cylinder cars will get close to that. even my vt commodore would do that. i often get high 8's as my average economy over a full tank of mostly highway driving with probably 20% city driving on my way to work. it isn't the flattest drive (rolling hills most of the way) and there is a 1.2km long 10% climb at 80km/h about 4kms from work (and the car isn't quiet up to temp by the time i get there) which it drops back to 3rd to go up. on a flat drive i could get better economy. pretty sure that the official highway fuel economy for it was 7.2L/100kms, same as the BA falcon (based off ADR tests of course). my old v6 magna used to get under 9L/100kms on the highway too. pretty sure that on my trip to willowbank to go to a test and tune i got low 9's and that included about 5 or 6 runs, plus the stop/start when moving foward in the line up, plus i hadn't been taking it that easy on the way as i was running late, as well as a car load of people

i wasn't saying that a beer tasting festival was a driving event. more just stating that there is a higher chance of someone drink driving there than normal times, in the same way that they have more chance of finding cars with illegal mods/defects at something like winternats. i'm also sure that they will get plenty of cars with near bald tyres, which i think we can all agree is a genuine safety issue as it drastically reduces grip in the wet.

i'm assuming that most of the aussie 6's you are racing are autos? is your car a manual by any chance? if so, then that is a somewhat unfair comparison. go up against a manual falcon/commodore and you will get chopped. just like auto skylines, auto commodores/falcons are noticably slower than the manual versions. although if you go up against an auto with a shorter diff ratio in it (since they are stupidly tall in standard form) and it too will beat you.

yeah there isn't much you can do about it. all of the mods you have are illegal. you may not have been aware of this as you bought the car with a RWC/safety certificate, however this only means the car is safe, it doesn't mean the mods to the car are legal.

my brother in law has a 4.2L diesel patrol that has had a turbo fitted. he gets pretty ordinary fuel economy. highway towing his boat (which isn't that big, only about a 4m tinny) and it gets about 15L/100kms. to put that into perspective, i could tow it with the pulsar and get around 10L/100kms.

why wouldn't they set up a defect station? they will get heaps of cars with illegal mods, plus a heap with bald tyres, etc. it's like setting up a RBT down the road from a beer tasting festival. makes more sense than doing it down the road from a primary school in the middle of the day in the holidays.....

if you have a shifter big enough just try and tighten it up a touch more so it doesn't rattle loose

i skimmed over that last posted so there is probably other stuff i may be able to help with, but too lazy, LOL. i mainly wanted to answer your question about the low temp nismo thermostat. so in answer to your question as to whether to go with the nismo item, i would have to say a big fat NO, especially for a NA that is going to be driven on a daily basis. run with the standard temp item.

price of fuel here hasn't moved in about 3 weeks. price of fuel in noosa only jumped over the weekends at the coles and woolies based servos.

saw this on a mates facebook page. it was one of those "at first i was......" moments

a new motor by itself with none of the loom, etc (which you wouldn't need as you can use your current stuff) wouldn't cost that much. a few hundred dollars. then get a few mates round and spend a few hours putting it in

if you do extractors then you would want to do a cat back exhaust to make the most of it. the power gains from doing this would be in the range of 5 to 10kw, but that will be more at the top end of the rev range. the low to mid range won't increase much, or may even drop a little bit in the lower rev range. it really does sound like you have unrealistic expectations from a 4 cylinder car though. as i said in an earlier post, i've driven a 1.8L lancer and they aren't bad to drive as far as power goes. sure the don't have the low down pull of a larger motor, but they are far from lacking (unless there is a mechanical issue, but from your fuel economy i don't think there is). any mods you do to increase power will only gain you about 10% more power, most of it at the higher end of the rev range. so not really the sort of change that it sounds like you are after. about the only thing that would give you the sort of low to mid range power gains is bolting a turbo to it.