mad082

well i clocked up about 26,000kms in my commodore since march just driving to and from work. would've clocked up another few thousand in the pulsar as well driving around town. no mods (unless you call pulling lowered suspension out of the commodore and putting stock suspension back in because it was cheaper than a camber kit).

probably because she didn't start off by saying that she's a girl

i got a place you could touch........ sorry, had to get in before anyone else. welcome to SAU.

i've decided to sell my boat. 3.6m tinny, crappy trailer and early 80's suzuki 8hp (runs well). all registered. i just never use it. haven't used it since australia day 2010 (other than ocassionally starting the motor in a drum of water to give it a run)

have seen 32HKS (or was it HKS32???) around noosa a fair bit lately. also saw a 35 GTR on the highway a few weeks back. as someone said above, not really a fan. see plenty of porsches go past work and i much prefer them

to get out on the road bike at least 3 times a week, instead of the usual once or occasionally twice.

so if you rev the car by turning the throttle body it is fine, but then if you go and sit in the car and rev it with the accelerator pedal (while still parked) it lags a bit? if so, then yes, sounds like there is an issue with the cable. may be that either the cable or outer casing is damage, or it is slack and needs tightening up

welcome to the world of car ownership where values drop everyday. to be honest, the value of $20,050 was pretty high to start with. $14,950 is much more accurate.

for a race car yes, for a car driven on the street, then hell no. if you are making less power below 5000rpm then stock, then you will spend pretty much all your time driving a car with less power than you started with, unless you plan on only driving round in 1st and 2nd gear, and maybe 3rd on the highway. less power at lower rpm results in higher fuel usage as well as a car that isn't as nice to drive on a daily basis. in a lot of cases the difference in drivability and fuel economy is minimal.

where you tie it down sort of depends on the trailer and where the points are to tie it down. my opinion is to tie it down via parts of the car connected to the lower part of the suspension that aren't going to move too much if the suspension is compressed. for example, if you were to tie it down via the body somewhere, if you hit a big bump then the suspension of the car can compress and the chains/tie-downs can slacken and the car can move. but as i said, it comes down to where the points are on the trailer to tie down to. also make sure that you have the car foward all the way so you have most of the weight over the front of the trailer. this will make it tow better. having too much weight over the back of the trailer is a good way to cause an accident once you pick up a bit of speed.

is it massively smaller? i think it know what's going on, but if you could get a pic of the old one and new one side by side would be good.

not discounting your gains, but what you said is somewhat of a blanket statement and doesn't show the true nature of the power gains. unless you overlay the before and after power runs and compare the power gains throughout the rev range you can't accurately see what gains you made. the majority of people just look at the peak power output. this can mean that while you may have a car that at the top of the rev range makes more power, but in the low and middle of the rev range (where you spend most of the time when driving on the street) you may be down on power. not saying this is the case for all cars, it's just a generalisation. i've seen plenty of cars with exhaust systems that give gains at the top 1/3 to 1/4 of the rev range, but lose power at the lower end of the rev range. the funny thing is though, because of the slightly steeper power curve, it gives the sense of total power gains. i've also seen exhaust systems that gave no total power output, but lower power in the lower rev range that also gave this feeling of more power.

looks nice. and good to see that there has been a solution to whether your car had been a turbo or not. if you still think your car may be down on power then put it on a dyno and get a power run done, then compare your reading to the dyno thread in the NA section of the forum.

as above, the NA skylines are a bit of a slug, especially the autos. what you are describing sounds like there is something else going on though (without knowing whether you are exagerating it or not). your transmission fluid may be low or you may have a sticking brake or the engine may simply be low on compression, resulting in lower than normal power. there are other things you can check though, such as the ignition timing, to make sure that it is right so you aren't losing power there.

+1 for cooler pipes if you have ruled out everything else. also might be worth putting it on a dyno to see what the AFRs are doing when it happens. if they richen up when it does it then you know it's a leak

pretty much every sport. it all depends on how you look at it. if you ask how many f1 fans have ever been to some sort of motorsport event then there will be lots more. in the same way that you could ask how many soccer or footy fans have been to a club level game compared to the world cup.

you have obviously confused the roles of moderators with some form of forum kiss-ass. we are here to make sure that the rules are followed. besides i'm not a moderator of this section, just a general participant. plenty of more blunt posts by other mods and admins on here. as for belittling her, i wasn't doing that, simply pointing out some facts to her. and at no point was i bagging out non turbo skylines in this thread. i was bagging out turbo skylines with the turbo removed though, as it needs as much attention drawn to how bad of an idea it is to do so that anyone new to skylines, who thinks they might do this to save a few bucks and get around P plate restrictions, knows why it isn't more commonly done.

more often than not you will get away with it, but if you get a cop who wants to get you on a technicality then they have you bent over a barrel. but the question still remains as to why anyone would want to take the turbo off a turbo engine and run it natro. people have done it before and proved that it is a bad idea as you end up with a car putting out about as much power as a hyundai excel, and i'm not joking about that either. your car is probably putting out about 70hp at the wheels. to put this into perspective, a small 4 cylinder hatch such as a corolla is probably putting out a handful more hp, but weighs in a few hundred kgs less. so without being too rude, what you have is purely a posers car. all looks and absolutely no go. if the car has had a factory non turbo motor put in but is simply running off the turbo ecu then it's not so much of an issue, but without the correct tune on the ecu it may just be a matter of time before something lets go.

"get it in there...." LOL, sounds like a farmer talking to his dogs rounding up sheep

wait, i'm not clear on this, but are you saying that the car had a turbo on it, or just the ecu was from a car that was turbo? if it was a factory turbo that you have pulled the turbo off then there are 2 things to mention (other than asking the question of why bother?). 1: the car is still registered as a turbo, therefore it is still illegal to drive on your P's. 2: it isn't the ecu making it produce less power, but the fact that it runs lower compression than the non turbo model, so even with a natro ecu it would still be about 30% down on power.

some aircon compressors can't have the pulley removed (or at least not to a point where you can get to the bearing). the best thing to do would be to talk to an aircon specialist. they will be able to look at the compressor and tell you whether it can be fixed/replaced or not. also wd40 is one of the worst lubricants on the face of the planet. it should only be used for lubing up things like door hinges, and kept away from anything that has high load or speeds.

if the car is still running then there isn't much to worry about.

it's the coating they put on them, plus if you had oil on your hands when you installed them then that would also add to it. you can give them a degrease and it will help, but it will all burn off after a few drives

as above, it's pretty rare to actually see it spinning

the cap should seal up so you get the pressure build up, so if you have tried different caps and still not getting the pressure build up and it's leaking then it may be the filler neck that is the issue. this has been covered many times over the years. generally with people getting a fuel smell. it is something to do with when they compliance them.