mad082

yeah mate, if you want to advertise then you are required to become a business trader

can't remember who it was that was telling me that the heat you sometimes feel with new shoes is to do with chemicals they treat the shoes with. basically has a similar effect to deap heat, etc.

wouldn't that restrict flow (especially once it has started to catch crap and get blocked up), thus putting more stress on your water pump as well as making the car more prone to overheating issues? or is it only used after flushing the system? sounds like it was a good idea that was only half thought out. fuel filters and oil filters don't suffer from this problem because they are designed with a much greater surface area of filter membrane. having said that, a really dirty fuel filter can causing leaning issues.

saying s1.5 is the easiest way to clarify things. yes it is techincally a series 1, but when it is running a s2 engine, wing and a few other minor differences, it can be vital for noobs to say that they have a s1.5 at times. for example if they say that they need new coils and want to know what part number they need for splitfires. if they simply say that they have a series 1 then they will get told the wrong information.

baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha, so true i have a small chance of meeting mark webber tomorrow if i want to. he is in noosa (where i work) at the moment and will be doing some of the group road cycling rides. but i'm too lazy to get up at 4:30 to get down there in time for the ride, and i'm sure there will be plenty of other posers/star spotters getting in the way and causing crashes

how does the rev limit affect speed? and will it rev to 10,000 rpm on the stock ecu? i think not. so no point comparing a car running a higher than stock rev limit to one running the stock. there are plenty of 6.xL holdens out there with the rev limit set to up around 7500rpm. as for servicing intervals, the standard service intervals are 15,000kms, but they recommend it done at 7,500kms. but yeah, i'd take the maloo, although i'd take a supercharged falcon over it, but honestly prefer a turbo falcon over all of them.

most s1.5 ran a s2 engine. there are a few things you can look at to see what it is, such as tps and afm and turbo. you can also tell by the engine number, but i can't remeber what the s2 numbers start at.

and will they dose?

not to mention polution, etc. and yeah the noise is a big thing. on a quiet night, with the wind blowing in the right direction, when i lived out of town i could hear the speedway, and it was on the opposite side of town, about 15kms away as the crow flies.

the problem is that in the case of f1 cars, they rely so much on aero that a car can be catching the car in front by relatively large amounts of time each lap, but then when they get within half a second or so they suddenly can't do a thing because they are in the dirty air. half the time they have trouble just getting close enough to even try and make a pass.

as zebra said, all the gauge will tell you is whether your o2 sensor is working or not. the readout will give you no other usefull information at all. whenever you put your accelerate at over about 25% throttle it will just go into the rich section, even if it is running dangerously lean. they do look pretty though. oh and it can be wired either to the correct pinout of the ecu, or the o2 sensor wire in the engine bay. it's the same wire, just a different end of it

the one on the left looks like a character from thunderbirds.....

replace all of the studs. you will most likely break more getting the manifold off. assuming from your name that you have a GTR. it will most likely be a turbos off job (know it was from my 33 gts-t).

might be a wire with a bit of wear on the outer insulation and when the body is flexing it is shorting out on the body

+1 for leaving it off. keeps them cooler as well as actually keeping them free from moisture. the reason being that while moisture may get the them a bit easier, it can also get away from them easier. for example, if you degrease the engine, the cover doesn't seal that well and water will get in around the coils (know this from experience). with the cover offer, after a bit of driving around most of the water will be gone. leave the cover on and even after a few days the water will still be there because it can't evaporate easily (well it does, but it just stays under the cover as steam and then into water droplets and only a small amount of it actually gets vented - also know this from experience). as for crud dropping into the motor when you change your plugs, if you are stupid enough to pull the plugs out with crud in the valley then you have no-one to blame but yourself. anyone with half a brain would clean it out before hand.

i'd hazard a guess that it's a transmission issue. could just be that it's low on fluid (check the auto trans dipstick), or the box is on it's way out. if you check the fluid level and it's fine, then the next stop would be an automatic transmission workshop.

well you can expect all you want, but i asked for very simple information in order to give him a better answer. he asked if he should gap the plugs (in other words, should he alter the gap). i simply wanted to know what gap he was running so i could give him an accurate answer. you said yourself his post didn't have much detail, so why be upset when i ask for more? if a mod asking for info is bad form in your eyes then you are going to be regularly dissapointed on this forum. since this is a question that has been, believe it or not, covered hundreds of times, most mods would've simply said "use the search function" or simply not posted at all. to answer your question about what gap you should be running, stock gap is 1.1mm, but anything between 0.6mm and 1.1mm is perfectly fine. the bigger gap the better, but sometimes you need to reduce the gap below 1.1mm to make up for weak coilpacks.

to see if it's on o2 sensor, simply unplug it and see if it changes how it runs. o2 sensor shouldn't affect anything other than light throttle acceleration. when you floor it the ecu ignores the o2 sensor

very sad to hear

that is correct. the thermostat stops the flow of cooled coolant from the radiator from entering the engine. the water pump just cycles water around inside the engine until it opens.

yes the age of an exhaust will alter the sound. the piping gets a layer of carbon on it which will make it quieter, but at the same time the mufflers will lose their ability to absorb sound.

hsv coupe 4 XF falcon sort of did (some were made as prototypes)

could be a crank angle sensor issue

as above, what are you currently running? if it's running fine then there is no point. if you have dodgy coil packs and they are starting to misfire then gapping the plugs to a smaller gap is a band-aid fix

you might have a leaking injector or a dodgy afm. might pay to put it on the dyno and see what the AFR's are.