mad082

it isn't just to make it appeal to a wider market, it is to make the styling age a bit better. concept car styling is based off what is the current trend. it's all about making it look like something from 5 years time which generally gives it a pretty short shelf life when it comes to having a model that is supposed to last a few years between updates.

yeah i'd hazard a guess that nissan kept production pictures (that were released to the public) to a bare minimum. and it's not like camera phones were common back then. these days though companies like to brag a bit about some of the high tech production methods, so they release carefully taken pictures.

engine light on the 34's is often triggered by dying coilpacks. if the ignition circuit fault code came up then it's almost certain that you have at least 1 coilpack that's on it's way out

you should be able to get up around 170 to 180kw (or more) with that turbo at 14psi. sounds like you have some other issues going on there. may be a timing issue, or fuel issue (lack of fuel or too much). i'd start by getting a dyno run on a different dyno (to rule out a low reading dyno) as well as see if they will give you a dyno graph with AFR's on it so you can see how rich it is running.

good to hear mate

the lotus deciding at the last minute that he wasn't going to make the gap and getting hard on the brakes and taking evasive action would've probably ended worse than keeping it pinned and going for the gap.

probably tried to steal someones icecream in a drive-by, LOL

11psi shouldn't put the car into rnr, however every car is different. most cars don't hit it until up around 13psi. this is also the limit of what is safe to run on the stock turbo without drastically shortening it's life. this is well documented on this forum. plenty of people will tell you that the stock turbo stops making power at around 12 or 13psi, but that is totally wrong. this is generally said by people who have never tried it and have simply read it on a forum (written by other people who have never tried it and simply read it on a forum too) and they take it as gospel. but i digress. the 204kw i made in my 33 was on the stock ecu, so it was as safe as any stock ecu (safer than most aftermarket tunes). the AFR's were in the mid 10's at high rpm, so plenty of head room if it started to lean out. it was on the verge of hitting rnr though as there were 2 slight dips on the graph. i'd had to back the boost down by about 1psi on the way to the dyno as it had hit rnr. as for blowing the motor, the stock motor is safe at 200kw. the general concensus is that 300kw is the upper limit of the stock motor (you can make more power than that on the stock motor but it won't last long). it was the upper limit of what's safe for the stock turbo though. having said that i got a hold of a remapped ecu without rnr and was running 14/15psi for about a year with no problems. never had it on the dyno with that ecu (had checked the AFR's with a mates wideband though and they were safe). definitely had more power though. one day i wound the boost back down to 11psi and put the stock ecu back in and it felt much slower.

there has to be a dedicated brake light so that at night people can tell the difference between brake lights being on and just tail lights.

my 33 gts-t used to get around 110-115km/h at 7500rpm (the stock redline) i'd say that the emanage in your car is set to redline at 6900rpm instead of 7500rpm.

yup. had my 33 running the stock ecu with a front mount cooler, cat back and running about 12psi (and the timing advanced a few degrees) and it made just over 200kw at the wheels (204kw to be exact) on a dyno and AFRs weren't that rich (no richer than at lower boost levels). a mate made 177kw from his 33 at similar boost on the same dyno, but his engine was a bit worn and it had a remapped ecu (was in the car when he bought it, so no idea what it was tuned for). oh and i forgot to say, you only need aftermarket coils and plugs if the stock ones are cactus. my mates 33 that made 177kw, i installed a larger turbo on it and tuned the ecu he got for it and it made 250kw with the stock coils and copper spark plugs gapped at 0.8mm

water would be about 100 to 105 degrees. not sure on oil

don't bother changing the auto trans fluid unless you know that it's cactus. from what i read when i was thinking about doing it to my daily, it seems to be that plenty of people have gearbox issues soon after, unless the fluid has been changed regularly since new. seems that the life of the box isn't really affected by the age of the oil. a gearbox will last a few hundred thousand kms if changed regularly and will last about the same if the fluid is never changed. however i would like to hear from more experienced people about this as i've had little to do with auto transmisions.

well fuel pump won't require a tune as you could put the fuel pump out of a space shuttle on there and it wouldn't affect the tune (unless the old pump was dead). air filters and front pipe and cat won't really make much of a difference so it should be fine to run them on the current tune. sort of depends on the ecu though and the quality of the tune. you can even run aftermarket turbos on a basic tune as long as you keep the boost down.

that makes it sound a bit worse than it is. you can easily run 11 or 12psi safely without any issues and you will see noticable gains without needing a tune.

+1 for either buying a built 2x/30 or bolting stuff to the 25. as zebra said, you would blow your budget putting in a stock 26, or you could have a pretty nice 25 that would out perform the stock 26.

i've found that in the bigger towns and cities fuel is generally the same all week and it just goes up from friday to sunday/monday. sometimes though it will just be higher on friday arvo and sunday arvo for peak times. the other thing is that if you have to drive out of your way to get cheap fuel then it isn't worth it unless it is dramatically cheaper. if it's only 1 or 2 cents and you have to drive a few mins to get it then you've spent more to get there than you saved.

you can just hold the revs at about 2500rpm in neutral and should flicker. otherwise just tap the throttle and it should go rich as the revs pick up and then lean as they drop back down

when you load up the graphs, etc, then you should be able to see the o2 sensor data. if the sensor is working then it should flick back and forth between rich and lean

they work off the properties of metal changing with heat (expanding and contracting). no solenoids or anything like that. the thermostat should be hard to open by hand, but should be possible. very hard to test them though as they will often open when put in boiling water, but you can't be sure whether they are opening too far or not enough. generally i say when in doubt, replace it. as for losing the water when pulling off the hose, there is a drain plug in the bottom of the radiator. if you have a bucket or 2 handy and just drain some of the coolant out into that. then when you pull out the thermostat you will lose bugger all coolant.

pretty sure it's had a 34 tail light conversion as well. that explains why it looked so weird, LOL. and LOL at it breaking down. looks dodgy as

this x 11ty million

you can add timing without an aftermarket ecu.

yeah that's why so many are going out of business, like i did. aussie retailers need substantial mark ups to make up for the fact that every other cost in australia is also higher. this is everything from the cost of stationary to the cost of the IT guy that they use to design a website and on to things like rent. the average small business owner would be doing well to be making what the government classes as the 'average wage' (about 50k). there are many who are making below minimum wage. if any industry is gouging profits it's the commercial/industrial building sector. my sister in law has gotten 2 pay rises this year totalling an extra 17k per year. she's a building estimator and she's on nearly 110k a year and she doesn't even work in the mines. i think she may have even got another pay rise a few weeks ago because she is working up in townsville for a few months (even though work is paying for her accomodation, travel home on weekends, etc). pretty sure she said she's taking home an extra $300 a week while she's there. but i said we shouldn't keep going on about it so i'll shut my mouth on the subject now

changing the rear muffler won't do much for performance in either a positive or negative way. it will make the car louder though. also you need to know that, despite what a lot of people will tell you, you don't want back pressure from an exhaust system, whether it's turbo or natro. back pressure is an unwanted side effect from having an exhaust that flows well at lower rpm. the majority of people will just refer to back pressure when talking exhaust size without knowing what they are really talking about. what you want is an exhaust with optimum flow and minimal back pressure, however this is much easier said than done.