mad082

i see they've gone to an IRS rear end as well as being 100kg lighter. no mention of new motors though. but it's good to see that they are interested in having other manufacturers join the field. pretty safe to say if any other manufacturer wants to join the field and win races they will have to get 888 racing to drive their car, LOL

you could always get a consult cable (or consult display), then you can read the ecu's temp sensor (different one to the dash). although a new thermostat is probably cheaper than both of them (and not hard to install). you could just buy a new thermostat and put it in. and if it happens to stabilize the temps then you are ahead.

if you contact the seller and they give you some crap story about them being overseas, or requiring a deposit before you see the car then it's bogus. if you can go look at the car then it's fine.

barichello would've won a few more if he hadn't been ordered to pull over to let spoilt child snr through.

i actually have to agree with this. a mate of mine owns 3 86's, all with different spec (4AC, 4AGE, 4AGZE). the later 2 go well in a straight line (the 4AC is a slug though). they handle ok, but not that great, even with mods, and they are absolute crap to drift. i have no idea why they are a cult drift car. that is the reason why you seem amature drifters in them constantly spinning out.

is your cat converter still intact? and how big is the oval muffler? my commodore only has 1 oval muffler in it (2.5" system) and it isn't very loud at all. it's a decent sized muffler though. also, what sort of resonator does it use? is it the oval type? it may be that they fitted it the wrong way. when i got one put on the pulsar it had a right and wrong way. fitted the wrong way it wouldn't do much to quieten things down.

the stock gauge isn't that accurate. it will sit in the middle of the gauge over about a 15 degree temperature range and won't actually move above the middle until the temp is about to go critical. if the gauge is dropping below the normal temp when driving then the thermostat isn't closing properly and the temp is probably dropping down to about 60-65 degrees at a guess. another way to tell if the thermostat isn't operating correctly is by how long it takes to warm up. it should come up to normal operating temp within about 5 mins of setting off (will be longer if you let the car sit and idle up to temp). there is also the chance that the car is fitted with a lower temp thermostat.

point 1: asking for production based race results as to how good an engine is is one of the most stupid things you could say. it is about the complete package. you could have the best motor in the worst car and it won't win races. when people talk about how good a mx-5 is they are generally talking about how good they handle, etc. they generally aren't talking about how great the enging is compared to everything else out there. in the case of the wrx, it's main rival is the evo, which is a car with much more gizmos and a substantial price difference as well. of course it is going to get beaten. point 2: do you consider the 4AC powered AE86 a cult classic? what about the 2 door coupe? i'm assuming you are refering to the 3 door hatch as being the cult classic. so are you just choosing to ignore the ugly and less powerful models or are they a classic too? and technically speaking the 3 door hatch version is a hatch and not a coupe, just like the 180sx is a hatch while the silvia is a coupe for those not familiar with the 2 different body styles, 2 door coupe 3 door hatch

you've been told wrong, or been told by people who had one with a dodgy o2 sensor so it was running rich.

webber looks like he's praying for a random lightning strike about 1m to his right.....

s1 and s2 use the same PFC

i wasn't aware of there being a difference between the 2. was the speedo sender you got from a different spec car by any chance? so if yours is a natro was it from a turbo? reason i ask is that i'm pretty sure they run different diff ratios so may be calibrated differently.

FYP i love reading threads like this because you get to see all the green eyed fanbois who are afraid of change. they see a new version of a car coming out and think that it should be the same old clunker that was around 20 years ago. maybe we should all start complaining about how the RB motor shouldn't have been put in the skyline and they should've stuck with the L series motors, and the GTR should never have been 4wd......

they are ok cars, but not as nice to drive as an impreza or SSS pulsar. they are a bit boring/vague. corollas are the same (although a little bit better to drive than the lancers) lern2sarcasm as the person above changed your post to say, so you are saying that you want plenty of police attention? and by the sounds of it getting a natro import will make you stand out pretty well, because i'm guessing you'll like trying to drag people off from the lights and a natro import will really help you stand out and be talked about, because in most cases the natro imports will get beaten by commodores and falcons, so people will be saying "yeah i beat that guy in his import" also having a car that is different to everything else in town makes it very easy for the police to identify you if someone reports a car like yours doing burnouts or racing around town.

yeah that seems a bit high. i'd expect it to be in the 50k range though. that is WRX sort of money. even a sti is $65k, 10k less than a 370Z

why not? if you say aything to do with torque steer then you're an idiot. sure you can't do fully cockhead i mean sick drifts, but if you are doing that on the roads then please just take the bus. as for fuel economy figures, the best i've got on the highway from the SSS is 6.5L/100kms, VT commodore (with over 220,000kms on it) is about 8.5L/100kms. based off the many fuel economy threads on here, a natro skyline will get you about 9L/100kms on the highway, often a bit more, depending on condition. take into account the need to run premium in the imports and your weekly fuel bill will be a few dollars a week more. i went with the commodore over a 4 cylinder for a few reasons. first being comfort. big comfy seats in aussie built cars as well as cruise control. plus the fact that you can get one in reasonable condition pretty cheap as there are plenty for sale. similar aged small cars will cost more. this balances out the difference in fuel costs. plus i didn't care about putting lots of kms on a dirty old commodore. when i go to sell it i will still get close to what i paid for it (in the case of my car, possibly more). i've put nearly 23,000kms on it since march.

1: yes and no. while the car will happily work as a daily driver driven on the street and it isn't really a waste. out of all of the GTR's out there i'd say that only a small percentage of them actually see the track. 2: again, yes and no. as i said above, it will handle being a daily just fine, however you have to ask yourself whether you are going to be constantly worrying about whether it will be getting bumped or scratched in car parks. if you would then it will sour your experience a bit of using it as a daily. 3: i doubt the validity of your statement about the majority of GTR owners being in the automotive industry, but that is a little bit off topic. when you get right down to it, a GTR is no more special than a commodore. they require similar maintenance and care, it's just that when it comes time to do more in depth work (diagnosing problems, replacing turbos or tuning, etc) you want to use someone with a bit more knowledge than your average mechanic. changing oil, spark plugs, etc, can most certainly be done by yourself or by the average decent mechanic (if they can't do it right on a GTR then they probably can't do it right on a commodore or falcon either). it is no harder than any other car out there. 4: there is the chance that with any inspected car it could blow up a week later, or even on the drive home. some problems have telling signs before the problem gets serious, other times things just fail all of a sudden. this isn't that common though. most more serious things generally start to show signs which you can look out for when buying a car, and a professional should be able to spot.

a natro skyline or silvia is as well. both will also be slower than the commodore or falcon as well. both will also be more comfortable, economical and generally cheaper to run and maintain (including insurance, etc) than an import. as for imprezzas, yes they are good cars. if you get a 2.0L one then it will be about as fast as a natro skyline/silvia as well. slightly less economical than the fwd 4 cylinder cars since you are pushing an awd system, but not by that much. i'm a little bit biased, and plenty of people will be expecting this from me, but get a SSS pulsar. they are great little cars (i own one) and pretty fast (powered by a natro SR20).

well considering that toyota doesn't have a motor that resembles anything like a JZ or 4AGZE, and it would cost them an absolute buttload to either get an old engine to meet emissions, or about as much to design a whole new engine, it was never going to happen. plus the fact that it was designed in conjunction with subaru. i'm just hoping that subaru bring out a turbo version. if they don't though, it shouldn't be that hard to either bolt on some turbos, or even upgrade the engine to a 2.5L turbo motor from a subaru.

not surprising to see whincup and lowndes and 888 racing being the most respected and sort after team. had paul morris been in the championship all year he would've gotten the dirtiest driver. he is fkn shocking. very little skill so just has to punch people off the road, then the moment he gets the slightest of taps he bitches about how bad the other drivers are. and whincup would've gotten the hardest to pass award if it wasn't for the fact that he was either too far out in front to try and pass, or the one doing the passing making his way through the pack, lol.

yeah i had figured that was the reason for the price difference

either a commodore/falcon or 4 cylinder hatch is my vote. the 4 cylinder hatch will get you the best economy (SSS pulsar gets me about 7L/100kms on the highway and it's a little bit on the thirsty side for a small hatch), but the commodore or falcon isn't that bad either. i drive 130kms a day to and from work. my daily is a vt wagon and i see under 9L/100kms from it and i just run it on whatever the cheapest fuel is. don't have to pay for premium fuel. it also doesn't matter if you are a bit slack on maintenance.

i like fishing, just don't get to do it often enough. got a 3.6m tinny that i haven't used in over a year (thinking of selling if anyone is interested). living 45 mins from the water doesn't help (even though i work 5 mins from the water). generally only go after small stuff, like whiting, flathead and bream. i either go to maroochy river (went with kenny/RBNT a few times) or tin can bay, with the occasional trip to burrum heads. only fresh water fishing i've done was in the mary river in gympie (where i live) and that was just for bait to use in crab pots. got a few eels. the missus caught a few decent catfish though.

another option is to pull off the door fab and get the code for the lock off the back of the lock and go into a decent locksmith and they will be able to cut you a new key without even needing your key to start with. that said, i got a key cut for my 33 at a locksmith and it was fine. they had no trouble cutting the key.

when i went to get one from autobarn for my r33 a few years back the NGK catalogue listed R32, R33 ones and the part number was the same as the one for the SSS pulsar (natro sr20), plus the part numbers on websites such as kudos motorsport are the same.