mad082

both are true. but when it comes to getting the car off the line cleanly slipping the clutch is better. why do you think f1 cars run a dual stage clutch system? when we talk about slipping the clutch we basically mean taking off normally, but faster, not riding the clutch like a learner driver. for rwd cars you are best off stalling it up on the handbrake. so handbrake on, build revs, let the clutch up to friction point so the rear end starts to squat a bit. when the light goes green drop the handbrake and let the clutch up.

or it could be that RBR let TR have the parts that they tried out on mark's car that didn't work as well as the parts they tried on vetools car.

regarding the left/right nostril breathing thing, everyone does that (well most people). it's just more noticable when you have a blocked nose. studies have shown that your brain functions in different ways depending on which side of your nose you are breathing through (left nostril breathing = right side of brain more active/dominant and vice versa).

i had a great sleep last night. note: i don't drink coffee or drink energy drinks at all. sometimes have tea with quite a bit of raw sugar, lol. here's the lead up. wednesday night, got to bed at 10, didn't get to sleep to at least 10:45. woke up at about 2am. got back to sleep at about 2:45. woke up to my alarm at 4:30. drive to work to go for a 6am ride before work (takes me 50 mins to drive to work which is 62kms away). ride 47kms (first half at average pace, second half at high pace). work from 9 till 5. drive home. eat dinner, watch tv and then bed about 10pm. i was out within about 5 mins of the light going off. slept in till 8:20 (no work today). have a feeling i will sleep well tonight too since i rode 50kms this arvo. i used to sleep like crap when i had my business. sleep much better now that i'm working for someone else (much less stress). i still often wake up once during the night though, but only for a short time, unlike before when it would be for a few hours.

only drop your rear tyre pressure though. pump your front ones right up (unless it's a gts4). letting the fronts down will slow you down. also, unless you have very good tyres, you are better off slipping the clutch off the line. if you have a heavy duty clutch and dump it it will just fry the tyres. this is why, even in a mildly modded turbo, you will do better times with a healthy stock clutch than a heavy duty clutch. same goes for suspension. stock is better than stiff coil overs

were they back to back tests on the same day, just a few minutes apart? if not then you can't rule out some variance due to weather differences, differences in how tightly the car is tied down, etc. also the gains on a v35 will be different to an older rb motor. i'm guessing you'd see more gains on a v35 than on an rb

that's a pretty shocking 60' time. some decent tyres will drastically drop that time. brass button clutch probably doesn't help if it bites hard (promotes wheelspin off the line). get the 60' time down to around 2 seconds and you should be running flat 14's.

pretty decent time. 0.2 of a second faster than what my magna ran.

as above, they aren't exactly rockets. bog stock they do the 1/4 mile as fast as my v6 magna did (high 14's). with a few simply mods (exhaust, cooler and boost increase) you can easily knock a second off that time. as for the lack of tack off when they come on boost, they run a pretty small, ball bearing turbo, so they come on boost pretty early and smoothly, so they have more low end power and don't have the sudden kick of power like a car with a bush bearing turbo, or a larger turbo.

repost. there is already a thread about this.

lowndes and skaife are a winning combo (and i'd love to seem them win it), but it's a long race and anything could happen. there have been plenty of "johnny on the spot" wins and podiums where teams have been mid pack for the whole race and then a safety car at the right time has fitted in perfectly with their strategy and put them up the front.

unless they ditch the softroader suspension and drop it on its nuts it will probably still handle like a wet fish.

just like the other coil pack thread you will not get any closer to an answer. everybody has a different opinion as to which is better. most people will say splitfires, but yellow jackets are good too, as are genuine nissan ones. people have had issues with near new yellow jackets and people have had issues with near new splitfires.

GTR ones run the same as non GTR's in most cases (few exceptions to the rule). GTR coils are not a performance upgrade.

one of the coolest things i've ever seen

kill it with fire! looks like nissan got an artistic drawing of a new mini and made it look a bit like a murano

if they are going to pay for the rebuild then i don't think they'll want to fork out for an expensive rebuild, so i wouldn't be suprised if they simply source a new motor. if they do rebuild it then it will be a stock rebuild, but you may be able to negotiate with them to pay the difference and use better parts.

just pull the plenum off. the time spent trying to get the plugs in and out without pulling the plenum off will be longer than what it takes to take the plenum off and put it back on. as for the pod, i wouldn't bother. just get a decent panel filter to fit, although if you already have the pod and want to use it, make a template of what the adapter needs to be and take it with you and find the adapter that is closest to what you need and then make it fit.

engine failure will have bugger all to do with getting a tune and injectors. it's just bad timing, so you will be stuck with the bill unless you can actually prove they caused the failure, which i highly doubt you will be able to. is your rb25 turbo or natro? if natro, why did you bother highflowing the injectors? that is a major waste of money on a natro unless you have extensive headwork done and are putting out power close to that of a standard turbo motor. if it was because the car was leaning out then the fuel pump was the issue, not the injectors and your engine was probably already stuffed before the tune due to that.

pull out the spark plugs. i bet you find one that is covered in oil (rather than all of them). i'm guessing that it is an engine failure rather than a turbo failure. turbo failure doesn't normally blow the dipstick out.

as i ask in pretty much every thread about fuel economy, HOW MANY LITRES ARE YOU PUTTING IN? sorry but i'm sick of every person who starts a thread using "a tank" as their quantity. everyone fills their tank at different levels, and all fuel gauges read differently, so you may be getting better economy than someone who posts up saying that they can go 100kms further because you fill up with more fuel left in the tank. put your fuel economy into a litres/100kms format and then you can see what sort of economy you are getting. anywhere between 10L/100kms and 15L/100kms is accepted as normal without knowing your specific driving style, conditions, etc.

i don't. the way i see it is that there are too many morons on the road that casually speed where ever they go. many of them could do with a bit of a wake up call. i actually randomly flash people when there is no speed camera. makes them slow down, LOL.

the answer is both yes and no. if you are paying attention and using a bit of throttle control then you will be fine, and if the back was to start to let go you would feel it starting to lose traction before you were out of control. if you just turn hard into the corner with your foot burried into the carpet then it may let go (but more likely you would understeer more than oversteer in that example). the same goes for if you were to just floor it mid corner. moral of the story, drive like a dick and bad things will happen. drive sensibly and you will be fine.

i wouldn't bother.

the stock r33 ecu can't be tuned without modifying the ecu. very few people/tuners can do this. so you either have the option of putting in a full aftermarket ecu such as a powerfc, or using a different ecu such as a r32 or z32 ecu with a nistune daughterboard. both will require a full tune though, so expect to pay a minimum off roughly $1000 for nistune and the tune, and about double that for a powerfc and tune.