mad082

i think that you should buy that car if the traction control won't properly turn off because the last thing this country needs is another cockhead drifting in the wet on public roads, especially in an import, as this just makes the authorities just crack down harder on import owners and ruins the already tarnished image of car enthusiasts. moral of the story, you sound like you don't deserve to have a licence.

FI could mean Forced Induction (meaning turbo). not really sure on what TP could mean though. it could be Turbo Petrol. in which case the FI could also mean Fuel Injected

a mate of mine told me he ran a rb20 ecu in his car (ceffy running rb25) when he was trying to sort out a fault and he didn't alter any of the wiring and it ran fine (he's generally not one to bullshit)

pretty sure the turbo option was available on most models of the range. only one it may not have been was the base model executive, but i could be wrong.

best for what? getting police attention? doesn't make the car go any faster

plenty of people will run their natro on 98 because they think they have to, but they don't. they will run fine on lower octane fuels (unless the timing has been advanced) as it's only the turbos that need to run on premium fuels. but any car (import or not) will generally run a bit smoother on premium fuels, but whether it is noticable or not is a different story.

+1 for fish oil there is some other stuff you can get too but i can't remember what it's called. it's a bit thicker. the old man uses it on his boat trailer.

skylines don't "break down a lot", but like all cars they will have the occasional issue, and once pushed harder they will have more issues if not down right. the ford is no exception to this rule either. if you up the power one and don't do the appropriate mods to go with it then you will end up with some issues as well. as for the r32 GTR, they are generally reliable but they are getting a bit long in the tooth these days and if you go for a cheaper example then you are more likely to end up having issues with it. i'd be more inclined to go the falcon or the r34 GT-t over the GTR for the simple fact that a r32 GTR for 15k isn't going to be in the best condition, so you could expect to have issues. for your budget you could get a r34 GT-t and then rather easily get it up to 250kw with a new turbo, ecu, AFM and injectors.

tyre compound plays as big a part as tread depth, and tread pattern plays a big part too, especially if you have directional tyres and have rotated them yourself and put them on the wrong side. size also plays a big part. if you have wide tyres then they will aquaplane more than skinnier tyres. and +1 for altering tyre pressure. having said all of that, i've had some pretty shitty, almost bald tyres on cars before and never had any issues with aquaplaning. had a few moments where it's been close in absolutely pissing down rain though. maybe it has something to do with driving style as well. oh and you don't use tyre shine by any chance do you? if you do, do you put any on the tread of the tyre? cause that's a big no no.

yeah try what's in the link above. but you can certainly work around it as well. just reset the trip meter everytime you fill up and then fill up when it gets to around 300kms or so (for round town driving)

the blowing of smoke means the turbo has seen better days. as for the flakes, as was said above. could also be that the cat converter is starting to break up.

this. the majority of boot leaks are caused by the sealing of the tail lights. certainly was in my case

JZ = engine code, 2 = 2nd generation of that motor, G = wide angle valve DOHC, T = turbo, E = electronic fuel ejection.

the car in the first pic is a commodore.....

what sort of diagram are you after?

when you buy the car you pay the finance company what is owing and then the balance to the guy selling it. if he is selling it for less than what's owing, walk away. i should note that that only applies if it is a secured loan (where the car is the collateral for the loan). if he simply got a personal loan to buy the car then it is no problem as the car isn't secured against the loan so if he stops paying the repayments they don't take the car, just any possesions to the value of what's owing.

you do realise that you just dug up a thread from 2008?

shroud makes a massive difference (make more difference than the bigger radiator will). deffinitely run it.

yeah as above, pull the lead off the battery isn't a good idea, however the car should still run without it on. i'd say that that symptom as well as your battery draining fast is probably a sign that your alternator isn't working properly. i'd get it checked (can do this yourself with a multimeter or have an auto electrician do it for you)

yeah i've done that before. sat behind a motorbike cop on the highway doing 115kmh for about 30 mins. when he did pull off i just made sure he wasn't going to come back down the on ramp behind me then continued on my way at the same speed

does it have a cannon or an oval muffler? if it has a cannon then get an oval muffler put on there. what size is the piping? simplest solution though is to take it to an exhaust shop and tell them that it's too loud and they can give you some options to make it quieter once they've looked at the system that is on there.

ok, few answers for you. 1: bugger all difference between s1 and s2 motors other than electrics. 2: yeah need to do a little bit of adapting to get the speedo to work. i think you can use a vl speedo sender, or is it a navara one? but yeah, just search it. plenty of info on it. 3: 300kw is the upper limit of the stock engine with any sort of reliability, although you can make more power but it becomes a time bomb. my suggestion would be a 25/30 for that sort of power. 4: for what it would cost you to buy a 26 and a 25 gearbox, etc, you could do the 25 conversion and mods (or 25/30 built) to be making more power than the 26.

unfortunately the "it came like that standard" line doesn't always work, especially if it's an import. there was a guy with a nissan patrol ute who got booked because the number plate wasn't visible from 45 degrees in every direction because the stock location for it is a bit too far under the tray (stock tray). in the case of an import, they could simply say that it should've had new windows put in when it was complianced. not much you can really do about it other than either change the windows, or try telling them it's standard and hope for the best.

slightly odd question, but does protein powder make any of you guys do really stinky farts? seems to be that a few hours after i have some i start producing the sort of gas i could sell to the army as a weapon......

are you 100% sure they aren't tinted? get a stanley knife and try making a cut in the corner of the glass (somewhere tucked away in the corner where it isn't visible easily. you may find that they are actually tinted. i honestly don't know though as i've never paid much attention. having said that, from memory, it doesn't matter how dark the tint on the rear windows are, only the front windows.