stasis

Well i called NPC clutch this morning and spoke to Doug. I told him wjat my rig is making at the moment and later on i will be taking it up to about 320kw@wheels. And he recommends me to go for the NPC ceramic 6 Puk single plate which will handle 350kw@wheels. For $924 oncl GST = postage and the rebuild cost is only a fraction of the price. And it doesnt "slam" everytime when you engages the gears. I think i will be going with NPC.

How does the NPC twin plate clutch drives in traffic or in the city? Is it a nightmare like a lot pf people says. Does it feel heavy on the pedal? Does the NPC twin plate includes the flywheels when you bought it? Can they do rebuild for other twin plater clutches as well( nismo's twin plate) Yudy

I got castrol 10w-70 in the engine at the moment but im goign to swap to a Mobil1 5w-50. Cos my tuner prefer castraol and im goi nt o swap to mobil very soon. I used mobil 1 all the time and its a good oil.

im running Tein HAs ATM with s pring rate of Front: 9 and Rears : 8 and its good and dont forget its a stagea. I had the valving swapped to Oz specs by fulcrum suspension. And its firm but nice. The car feels like its stuck to the road when going on rough roads. I had the damper set to the softest on the fron and 3 clicks from the softest at the rear

You taking your car to grey imports for? For the brake rotors or the pads? If for the rotors i dont think you will find any cheaper RDA rotors around for that price.

nangking or nankang? If its nankang i will go for it. Have you check out the maxxis Z1? Rated by wheels very good

quick questions as well, are the clutches interchangeable between the R33gtr 98' and R34s?

quick question about JB clutch. for those gus with big Hps does the clutch slips at full boost and at high Rpms?

guys heres a picture of it. Now if i take off the line to i have to bleed the system? Its been sugested it might be the O ring inside the cap.

From memory the sloted front is A$300/paor delivered which is preety good price. I havent got them yet. My rotors will be in for another set of brake pads before i need to change them. I will be getting this rotors for sure when i need them. Im using endless SSS now it came with the car when i imported it in. As it is estimated at 30% left on the pads, i will be switching to EBC Green. Reason is my rears have EBC Green ATM. I prefered Ferrodo though. Cos they say its better to use the same brand pads for front and rears as their coefficients are the same but somo people might think it doesnt matter. I prefer Ferrodo they are only AS$50 buck difference in price between EBC and ferrodo. Its up to you really. Boys on the budget?! EBC, not so on the budget?! Bendix or Lucas, spoil yourself?! Ferrodo. It also depends how you are going to use the car. Normal driving or track? If normal driving EBC or bendix should be ok. Hope this helps. Yudy

You might want t to check the GB section. Theres an ongoing GB for RDA (ithink) brake rotors. Very cheap. You might want to give him the dimension (diameter of your rotors and thickenss) and he will sought you out. Get the slotted ones don get the dimpled onr cross drilled ones as they might crack under heavy use. Let us know if you have any problems Yudy

ok thanks buddy

AHH superb project Simon!! Nice to hear from you again. The photos makes me HIGH!!!! LOL!! Very good. what is your expected final Kw at the tune? Give me your address too (kidding!!) Damn how i wish i was an engineer!!! Ohh Ilike the "ASS lube "too.

sre the tension the same between the 2wds, 4wds, Gtrs and GTST and 32s, 33s and 34s? How much to replcae the rose joint? Soz for hijacking this thread.

Hi Markk, will you be doing this GB again in the near future?

you can tell the difference when you swap the xhaust from a std to a 3". Go at least 3" for the exhaust system. Your arse will feel the difference when driving it in terms of the power gain LOL!

ok got that. How about the bolt and nut on the outer arm, should i add a washer to it? Cos it didnt have a washer on it for some reason.

you mean the o ring in thecap? If i take off the cap replace the oring and put it back on, will i need to bleed the system?

if i take off the line, would it suck in air then i have to bleed it? Cos i know its a bitch to bleed that line.

Guys quick question. My car is the 260rs which is basically the R33Gtrs. I changed the rear upper link(original) to an adjustable camber arm. Now there are 2 bolts one is the inner and outer arm. The qiestion is on the inner bolt. Its an adjustable one correct. and outer is not adjustable so thats fine. The bolts on the inner arm is a bit different and my inner joint on the upper arm is a spherical joint now. So do i need to change the bolt and the nut to a normal one? Lemme know. Yudy

Ok I took some pics today while i changed the rear upper link. i checked the bolt with the 17,, spanner and it was tight. And her is a picture of it. See what you guys think. It begin to form droplets and soon it will drip onto the floor

i will take a look tommorow and will try to take a couple of pics to be uploaded. Although, after changing the coilovers before i discovered the leak. I did a few tight turns and the rear seams to disengaged somthing. It happened tiwce, and once when i was backing out from a parking lotwhile turning and it also seemed to disengaged somthing. None of the warning lights came on. The fluid level at the back of the boot is at normal levels.

Hi Guys , anybody knows about the RsR Ti2000 springs? Are they good? Will they be able to fit onto a coilovers with a conical springs? Thanks

i have seen cryogenics on beyond 2000 years ago when it was commercialized. One of the things that can be done is the exhaust. It makse it sounds more "alive"

Guys , took the car in for alignment 2 weeks ago after i changed my suspension. While the car was up on the hoist i noticed in the middle of the undercarraige theres a bis pot of oil. So i slipped underneath the car when i got home. i can pinpoint where the oil patch is from. Its located directly underneath at the start rear tail shaft. Whats that thingy right underneath the rear tail shaft?! It looks like a wiper motor and its got an insulated tunbe running to the rear of the car. The oil is not dripping on the floor when parked for long periods. Its just annoying to see the patch of oil on the car itself. I hope somebody is able to shed some light onto this. Since its seeping oil, will it affects any of the components?! Thanks guys