Quinny

I reckon the coupe is the way to go (yes, I am biased), generally coupes are lighter, stiffer (chassis stiffness) and more aerodynamic than 4 dr variants, I am pretty sure that is the case with the Skylines too (which is why the coupes are generally quicker). The coupe is still fairly roomy, though if you are planning on carrying rear passengers often, the 4 dr might be the way to go. IMO the coupe looks better too.

Sorry guys, I am going to have to give this one a miss. My clutch is FUBAR and I won't be going anywhere until it is fixed. Definitely up for the next one though.

One thing to check is how good the warranty is. Some warranties are not worth the paper they are written on. For an R32, I bet the warranty is one of the dodgy ones that covers like $1500 for an engine rebuild and about $200 for everything else. I got a 3 year warranty with my R33, and after reading the booklet, I wish now I hadn't bothered. The question has to be asked, "why does a 119000km engine need rebuilding", but I think alot of GTRs are getting rebuilt engines with relatively low kays. Also remember that the dealer would only be willing to swap for 2 reasons: 1) the car you are swapping for has a problem, and they want to get rid of it. 2) your car is worth more money than the car you are swapping for. A dealer won't swap a car for one worth less than the one they have unless there is a reason - i.e. the car has problems, no-one wants it (why?) etc. I have swapped a couple of cars with dealers, and they will try to shaft you every time, the last swap I did was a bit of a disaster, I don't think I will do that again. As for the value of your car, GTT models go for as little as $28000 these days, so that would have to be the upper figure for a GT in primo condition. It is a risky trade, but pretty much any R32 you buy is a risk, they are getting old and developing problems, a rebuilt engine could be a good thing if everything has been done properly, no cut corners. If it was me, I would see how much you can get for your car (have a look in the trading post or something at similar cars and what they are selling for), sell privately, then look for another car.

Meet in the middle and get an R33 GTR, they can be had for the low 30k mark now. I wish I had a few extra $$ when I bought mine so I could have gotten a GTR. The R32 is getting a bit old, and it will be pretty hard to find a good one as most will have been hammered, the R34 would be my pick.

You do realise it is a major defect to have 18x9" rims on the front? You are only allowed 8" wide rims on the front by law (I think that is an ADR requirement). There is no point in 18x9" really because if you are going to go wider than a 245 tyre (which is about the widest you can get on an 8" rim), then you will probably have problems with rubbing on the inner guards at full lock. I would stick with 18x8" on the front with 235 tyres.

Yeah, I have learned that lesson. The car won't go anywhere without slipping really badly. The only trip it will make now is down to the mechanic to get a new clutch. If the flywheel gets screwed, that is a pretty good excuse to get a nice lightened one.

Yeah, I am not too worried if it is only the clutch, I am glad it wasn't something worse. I will be getting the brass button clutch, but the sprung centre will help the on/off action a little, so it isn't quite as violent so it is better in traffic. The place I am getting it from says that it is the toughest single plate clutch they make for the GTS-T, and will take over 350rwhp with no troubles. Not bad for a $500 clutch.

I can get a brass button clutch with a sprung centre for $430, so I think that might be the go. I have no intentions of 350rwkw at the moment. I drove the car today...... clutch is screwed. Big Time., I think last night when I took the car for a drive to test the clutch out, I think I gave it a bit too much of a hiding, because the clutch slips at any revs now, even like 1000rpm.

Thanks Munna1, I have had a look at your tuning guides, and my mods are pretty much in line with the Stage 1 guide. I already have exhaust and pod, I will be getting a FMIC and boost controller soon. I will change boost to 10psi, other than that, I don't think I will be doing much more with the car because it starts to get into expensive mods after that. Around 180-200rwkw would be nice. I am just not sure whether it will be worth the extra $500 to get the PFC if the SAFC will do pretty much the same job.

I tried taking off easy in 3rd, and the clutch slipped until it hit boost then the car took off, so I think the clutch is stuffed. Also the fact that in any gear, if I bury the foot, the revs slip to 7000rpm before dropping back to about 4k to accelerate again.

I just took the car for a drive, it is definitely the clutch. I did a few tests - took off in 3rd gear, clutch slipped until boost came on and the car took off. I also tried mid-gear acceleration and the revs slipped right to 7000 before dropping back to 4000 or so to pickup again. I am convinced now it is definitely the clutch, and it needs to be replaced soon.

If you are worried about cutting holes and stuff, why not just get someone else to install it? The people I have spoken to quote $200 to $400 for installation depending on the car and kit (i.e. what they have to modify), they will do the modifications to the front bar, cut holes, run piping etc, so much easier than trying to screw around with it yourself if you aren't too handy with tools.

I am also looking at using either a SAFC or PFC. Is there really much benefit in going for the PFC for a mildly modified car? My mods will be exhaust, FMIC, 10psi, filter, thats pretty much it. Is it worth going for PFC, or would SAFC be ok. Sorry to hijack the thread, but it is kind of on the same topic.

That is kind of what I am thinking too. Could it maybe AFR's or something like that? Coilpacks? AFM? O2 sensor? Any other ideas?

Yeah, 4th gear does the same thing, but it is most noticable in 3rd. In my previous experiences with clutch slip, the engine usually revs, but you don't go anywhere (or not very quickly), in this case the car sort of hits a dead patch where it just does not really want to rev, but once it gets over 4000 it is ok..... weird. I might try resetting the ECU - no harm in that. If it is the clutch, then that will be replaced soon too...

I had yet another thought with my car. The car seems to be flat-spotting at around 2500-3500 rpm. The more I think about it, the more it seems to be a flat spot rather than a clutch problem. Usually with clutch slip, the car will rev quickly but not go anywhere. Mine sort of revs, then hits 2500-3000, just as boost is coming on, and sort of dies in power, when I bury the foot, it is almost like a really sloppy auto downchange, the revs creep over 4000rpm, then it revs ok from there. Would it be worthwhile resetting the ECU? I have read that a few people have fixed flat spots like that. The car is getting serviced next week with new plugs, and the clutch will also be checked, but I am starting to wonder if it actually is the clutch. I have also noticed that the car seems to run a bit rich - you can smell it (not too strong, but you can still smell it) - would this contribute to my problem? Any other ideas - or is the clutch still #1 suspect?

I believe there was a production car championship in about 1990 or 91 in Japan, an R32 GTR won all 29 races in that series. The GTR was built to win races, it was designed to be better than anything available at the time, which is why it did so well. Today they have a bit more competition, which I guess is why they don't seem so dominant anymore.

Another Picton boy eh? Hopefully see you around. Sorry, back on topic.

As mentioned, the guage is not in PSI, it is in mm/hg (x1000). 7psi would be just over the half way mark between 0 and 7 (works out to about 362mm/hg). So between the 3 or 4 mark on the standard guage would be about right.

The Fast & Furious style "smoke" is actually made by purging the nitrous lines. Hook a nitrous bottle up (illegal here, not sure where you are), with a purge valve coming out behind your bonnet which is activated by a button. You can load up the lines by opening the bottle, then purging the line by pushing your little button to activate the purge valve, and the nitrous will vent to the atmosphere instead of the engine, and create a nice little cloud. My mate has a similar setup on his big block Monaro.

Yeah, a supercharger would be cool. I don't think that anyone makes a 14/111143 blower though. By the looks of things, it doesn't use a camshaft. Imagine the size of the cam for an engine that big!

Just use an RB30 block and crank. There was another thread about this, it is a very common conversion with VL commodores to use the RB30 bottom end with RB26 top end. The RB30 bottom end will be way cheaper than a 2.8 stroker kit, and you get 3.0L instead of 2.8L. As stated, there is not enough metal on the bores to allow you to bore a 2.6 to 2.8. In regards to the rev limit, if the engine has been built correctly (i.e. good rods & pistons, balanced, intake etc), then you could get them to rev to 8000 or 9000rpm+ easily. The sky is the limit. Put it this way, the Trick & Mansweto Capri drag car makes 1000rwhp, naturally aspirated at 9000rpm from a 600ci big block V8. You can get any engine to rev high if you have a good engine builder and plenty of money

Highly doubtful, but you might be lucky to find a collection of model drift cars or something which may have a Cefiro, but I don't like your chances.

I am not so sure it is photoshopped. Custom hinges are not uncommon nowadays, neither are airbags. The back wheel is on a funny angle in the pics where it is dumped, but it looks consistant in all the pics. The shadows look ok to me, so I am not sure where that conculsion came from. I have looked at these pics trying to find inconsistancies, and I can't find any, which would be rather hard if all the pics were chopped. If it is chopped, then it is a very good job, someone has put alot of work into it. If it is real, the owner needs a slap upside the head for doing that to a perfectly good Accord. Personally, I think it is real, someone has gone to alot of effort to make this a show car, but its appeal is limited. This is a good example of money not very well-spent.

True, but that 300ton crank, and the massive headstuds had to get machined some how.