Quinny

It is a pretty impressive bit of workmanship, I would like to see the machines used to do stuff like machine and balance the crank or machine the bores, or machining the screw threads for the giant bolts and head studs.

Yeah, I got it from another forum, I hadn't seen it before so I thought I might share it here. I had a quick look to see if it had been posted before, but I didn't find anything.

They are used for really big ships like aircraft carriers, warships and big container ships.

Yeah, I know it is a pretty silly thread, but there must be so much work go into an engine like this. Just looking at the raw figures is impressive enough: 108920hp @ 102rpm 5608312lb/ft @ 102rpm 25480L or 1556002ci Fuel consumption works out to over 13000kg of fuel per hour Not to mention its physical size, 89feet x 44 feet (27m x 13.33m), weighing 2300tonnes. 38" bore, 98" stroke..... Although, the power to weight ratio is crap (21.11kg per hp), this thing produces enough torque to just about pull the Earth out of its orbit. Awesome.

AutoArt is about the best of the mass-produced models that I have come across. I didn't know that AutoArt did an R32, I might have a look at getting one. I have a bunch of model cars of all different brands - Hot Wheels Die Cast, autoart, bburago, maisto etc. Does anyone know of an R33 GTR die cast model? I don't care what it costs, I want one.

Check out this puppy. I wonder if I can get one to fit in my R33...? http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/ Sorry if this is a re-post.

From what I have read about R33 GTRs, they run mid to low 13s from factory, so with computer, exhaust, and boost (depending how much), you will probably run mid 12s maybe. If the boost controller is not turning on when the car is turned on, first thing I would check it the connections for power, earth and accessories. If those 3 are hooked up, then the unit should turn on when you turn the key to accessories, but if the unit turns on, but does not function correctly, that is a different problem.

I reckon there is a few drivers of very quick VL Turbos that would disagree with you there. A 2.8L stroker kit would be way more expensive than just using an RB30 block & crank. The RB30 crank is indestructible, no-one makes a forged crank for them because they just don't need it. The stock rods and pistons can cop a hiding, but it is probably a good idea to go forged just to make sure you don't have to do it twice. I happen to know where there is an N/A RB30 from an R31 Silohette engine sitting around, which is going cheap. If you are in NSW, let me know if you want one.

If you are going for forged rods & pistons, then it doesn't matter what compression the stock bits will give you. The main thing you need is the block and crank. Just get your pistons to suit whatever compression you want. Rebuilding an RB30 bottom end with forged pistons & rods will probably be cheaper, and you end up with a 3lt engine, with RB26 go-fast bits. I reckon that is definitely the way to go. One thing you might want to check is what gearbox you will be using and how easily it will bolt up the the RB30 block. I am not too sure on that one, quite a few commodores just use the VL Turbo box, but others have used RB25 Skyline boxes etc. I am sure you will work something out.

It is very popular with the VL Turbo boys to do an RB25 or RB26 head onto the RB30ET. Apparently it is a very straight forward conversion. There is heaps of info about it on the Street Commodores forum, maybe have a look there, maybe try the calaisturbo forum as well. The RB30 bottom end is already quite tough too, if you ar not going for stupid power, you probably won't even need the forged kit. There have been VL Turbos know to runs 10s on the standard bottom end on stupid boost (like 20psi). But, I suppose it is a good idea seeing as you already have the engine apart to fit forged rods/pistons. Here is a couple of links, they might help you a bit. I am sure there is more to be found with a little searching. Sorry if linking to other forums not allowed. http://forum.streetcommodores.com.au/showt...d.php?t=8464989 http://forum.streetcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?t=10231 http://forum.streetcommodores.com.au/showthread.php?t=44332

You may be better off getting an RB30 bottom end and swapping the RB26 top end over to that. RB30's are really cheap, and you will have a 3.0L Twin cam, twin turbo. Nice.... Paying $2k for the twin cam head and turbos etc is still a good price.

Sorry dezz, I am going to have to take a reincheck, I need a new clutch more than an intercooler at the moment. If the GB is still going in a couple of weeks, I will have another look.

That is pretty much my problem, the car revs but doesn't really accelerate, just like a slipping clutch (or another way of putting it would be a really sloppy downchange in an auto). There is no burning smell though, but others have said that they have had the same problem and the clutch does not smell much at all.

Ok, different problem, just ignore me.

If your problem is the same as mine (sounds pretty similar), but I doubt it would be fuel. My car was doing it when I first picked it up, then I put Ampol 95 RON (oops....) fuel in it, still happened, then Caltex Vortex 98, same thing....

I have a similar problem to what you have described, my car is stock apart from exhaust and filter, no aftermarket boost control, stock cooler etc. I have a hesitation around 2500-4000 under acceleration, always comes on when boost starts, cruising off-boost, it is ok. Mine feels like the clutch slipping though, then it gets over 4000, revs ok, but feels a bit restrained (like there it is still slipping a bit).

I have never "felt" it engage, the only time I have ever had the HICAS light come on is when my turbo timer starts when I shut the car off (HICAS light comes on for a second or so when the timer kicks in). If it is speed sensitive, then that would explain why the rears didn't move while stationary. Not to worry. Thanks guys.

I noticed the other day that HICAS system doesn't appear to be working on my R33 GTS-T. I have had cars with 4WS before, and usually when you turn the steering wheel, you can see the rear wheels turn as well, but mine were not turning at all. Is the HICAS system speed sensitive, or perhaps it has been removed/disconnected? Is there any common reason why the 4WS is not working? It doesn't particularly bother me, I don't really like 4WS, but I am just curious.

No worries.

My car isn't really spluttering, it is feels and sounds just like the clutch is slipping, it is only happening when boost starts coming on, when the engine starts developing is torque. I am pretty sure that it is the clutch, but I will be getting new plugs etc when I get the car serviced pretty soon.

Sounds good. Put me down for a kit for R33 GTS-T, just let me know when you need the money. Cheers.

I am very interested in this kit, when would payment be required? I will give you a definite answer next week, don't add me to the list yet, but I am about 90% sure I will be getting one of these.

South-West Sydney, Campbelltown area.

I was driving the car today, trying to keep an eye on the boost level when the clutch starts slipping, it seems that under acceleration, as the boost just starts coming on (at around the 0 on the factory boost guage), and around 2000-2500rpm is when the slipping starts occuring. It also seems to have gotten worse at higher revs and also in first gear. So, it sounds like I am up for a new clutch. What is the best kind of clutch for a mildly modded R33? I can get a brass-button clutch with a sprung centre for $530, would that be the way to go? Does anyone have any recommendations for a new clutch? I wouldn't mind the clutch being a bit heavier, as long as it will take a bit of punishment from around 200rwkw.

I plan to get the exhaust done as well - at the moment I am not sure what setup it has (it was like that when I bought the car). I figure that I am better off to get the tune, cooler, computer now, and finish the exhaust later (and get the tune re-done if I have to) than do the exhaust now, and get the tune and computer done later.