Quinny

I am keen. As long as I have my new clutch by then, I am in.

I have done a search on this topic, but I could not find exactly what I was after. I am interested to know how much boost can be run on a stock R33 turbo, and stock intercooler. I am getting a Power FC and dyno tune done soon and want to up the boost a little while I am at it. Is it safe to run 10psi with the stock 'cooler, or should I stick to about 8psi? The search results show that some people say a FMIC is needed, others say nothing, others say FMIC not needed.... can anyone clarify this? For the record, the boost guage (at least in the R33) is in (x100) mm/Hg. The conversion rates are 1 mm/Hg = 0.0193psi 1psi = 51.715mm/Hg 1 bar = 14.5psi or 750mm/Hg

That would be a rather difficult chop. For a start, the pics are not on the same angle, which means that the front bar or the bonnet will not line up when pasted on to the new pic, and no amount of scaling, skewing, cutting or anything else will make it fit. Second, the pic on the left is jet black, it is almost impossible to modify black on Photoshop because everything blends together. It would be very hard to chop the front bar & bonnet, paint it black, and make it look realistic. obviously, there are others more skilled than I am with PS, but that is how I see it.

I take it you have probably seen these before, but I figured while we were on the topic of Skylines being powered by non-Nissan engines, I might bring it up again. This R33 has a 5.7L LS1 V8 shoe-horned between the strut towers, done by Street Force in WA.

Yeah, that sounds like my problem. The clutch was slipping quite a bit going up the hill, but not all the time. Although, I did notice it getting worse as I drove longer. I won't drive it all that far again until I fix it. It is really starting to sound like the clutch. Maybe the smell (or lack of) is just related to the compound used for the clutch plate. I guess a new sports clutch is in order. I will get the gearbox pulled and clutch checked first, but it sounds like a prime suspect. Thanks Paul. Cheers.

Hmmmmm... I suppose you are right. It still doesn't explain why I had the car sitting at 3000rpm, right where it slips worst for an hour cruising up a steep hill, and no burning smell from the clutch. Clutches usually stink really bad when you slip them bad like that. Also, why is it that I get less slippage at higher revs, when full-boost is on? Thanks for your help PaulR33. One step closer to finding out the problem.

I just had a thought (doesn't happen all that often...kind of hurt a bit.. ). Usually, a slipping clutch will have the same problem in any gear, correct? My problem does not occur in first gear. It will rev cleanly through the whole rev range in first, but it has problems in all the other gears. 3rd is the worst, 2nd is still pretty bad. Would the fact that the car does not have the problem in first let the clutch off the hook as a suspect? Would this still indicate the coil packs? Any other ideas?

I think you may be right MIVEC. The guage in my car was reading 1/4, I went to the servo, put in 33L, and now it reads full....That doesn't add up for a 60L tank.

Spend the extra $300 and get someone else to hook it up. Then you don't need to worry about how hard it is to fit because someone is doing it.

Thanks QRI05E, that is the kind of info I am after. I might try the clutch out and see how it goes taking off in 3rd. The car doesn't seem to have any trouble with taking off normally (i.e. in first), but I will see how it goes in third. So the coils are under the top cover on the engine? No wonder I couldn't find them. I will take the car to the tuners on the weekend and put it on the dyno. Hopefully that may give some indication as well.

300rwkw will run 10s in Commodores, a well setup Skyline will do better than that I would think. 250rwkw in a well setup Skyline would probably run an 11 or go close. If you want 300rwkw, just get the dyno operator to put the temp probe next to the exhaust...

I wasn't trying to be bitchy or trying to insult you, I was just intrigued by your comment: "-tyres and suspension are not relevant in making power on a dyno." I have been playing with performance V8s for a few years now, and have seen a few people who just like to have 300rwkw because it sounds good to tell your mates that you have that much power. Personally, I would rather aim for strip times rather than power figures.

Are you only interested in making power on the dyno? 300rwkw is not going to win you any dyno comps, so why bother? I beleive the current benchmark (at Summernats at least) is 680rwhp for a turbo 6. If you are not going to drive or race the car, what is the point of having 300rwkw? Bragging rights at the pub have limited appeal...

I have been looking at FMIC kits for my R33, I have been told to stay away from the cheap kits, in particular Hybrid coolers. I have been tossing up between a Trust kit from Advan performance for $1400, or a HKS kit from Perfect Run for $1270, which is the better kit? Are there any others that anyone would recommend? Sorry to hijack the thread.

I was thinking it was a dying clutch, but I drove the car for over an hour, up a steep hill (Mt Ousley), and had no burning smell, so I am not so sure. The car does rev over 4000rpm, but still feels like it is struggling, but nowhere near as bad as at lower revs. It seems to start "slipping" at about 2500rpm, then is pretty bad by 3000 to 4000rpm. I really don't want to spend money on replacing parts that I don't have to replace, so I really need some help on this one.

I am not sure if this is the right place for this, but I could not see a specific section for pics of our cars, so if it is in the wrong section, I apologise. Anyway, here is a couple of pics of my newly acquired black R33 Series II GTS-T. It is basically stock except exhaust system and HKS pod filter. It also has 17" mags, lowered, and has Cusco front and rear strut braces. She looks to be in pretty good nick, only 72000 on the clock (whether that is genuine I am not sure), the interior is immaculate. Feel free to make any comments (good or bad) you like, this is my first Skyline so I am interested to see what other people think.

I am starting to think you may be right. I am starting to see the symptoms of coil failure that I have been reading about. One question, where are the coils located on an RB25DET, I can't seem to find them. How hard are they to replace?

I took my R33 for a run last night, and I think I may have found the problem. It seems that the "flat-spot" comes on just as the turbo starts coming on boost. I am thinking that the "flat-spot" is actuallt the clutch slipping when the turbo hits boost. Does this sound right?

I will be pulling the dash apart this weekend or next to change my headunit, exactly what needs to be done to fix this problem, it is annoying me...

I took the car for a run yesterday, judging off the factory boost guage, the car is reading about +370mm/Hg (which works out to about 7psi) at full noise, so it seems that the boost is at the factory setting. I think I might just take the car to a dyno and see what the tuners think... When I got the car the other day, I put 95RON Premium fuel in by mistake, would that contribute to the problem?

I posted a question about this issue in the General Discussion area, I apologise for the double post, but I now realise the question should be asked here. I bought an R33 GTS-T Series 2 a couple of days ago. I noticed what seems to be a flat-spot in the rev range at about 3000rpm. Once it gets past 4000rpm, it revs quite well. The sound is kind of like a clutch slipping or a sloppy down-change from an auto gearbox. I was suspecting a boost issue, but I had a look tonight when I took the car for a drive, I revved the car to 7000rpm in 2nd & 3rd, and the boost guage was sitting on about +370mm/Hg (so about 7 psi). The car is basically stock except for a HKS pod filter, and an exhaust (I am not sure if it is right through or just cat-back), and as I mentioned above, the car seems to be running factory boost. A couple of people have suggested to check the coils, and replace the plugs with 0.8mm units, this will be done soon. Can anyone think of any other reason that this might occur? I am pretty new to Skylines, so any help would be appreciated.

This may be a stupid question, but I was reading about the Power FC, and noticed that the Power FC can run the car using a MAP sensor instead of the AFM. Does the car have to be tuned using the MAP sensor, or can the Power FC be tuned using the AFM?

Found it. $1040 for the PFC, $400 for the boost controller. Looks like getting the PFC boost controller is the best way to go because it is cheaper than all the other units.

Does anyone know the price of the PFC boost control kit? I am looking at buying a PFC pretty soon, and figure I may as well get the boost control as well rather than getting a separate boost controller.

Are you referring to a Boost setting in the Power FC computer - I read somewhere that it has a boost control setting? So you don't need an EBC if you have a PFC computer?