Quinny

The car does have an aftermarket exhaust, so I suppose that would make a difference. I might get a boost guage and boost controller hooked up, that way I know exactly what is going on.

I am just wondering if it is possible to change the boost setting, without having a boost controller. I am sure that my car is running more boost than factory, but I can't see a boost controller anywhere. I will be buying a boost controller soon (not sure if I will spend the extra cash for an electronic one, or just go a manual one), so I can keep track of the boost (about 8psi for the moment), but I suppose I have to work out how the boost was increased in the first place.

That sounds pretty good for a stock 200k+ km GTR. If the car was modified the it might be a different story. The figure is even better if you used a 4WD dyno as you get more drivetrain loss. I wouldn't worry too much about the actual power figure asy dynos always vary, your power & torque curves will tell more about the way your car is running. Beer Baron: 225hp is about 168kw.

I would have thought that a coil problem would be evident in more than 1000rpm of the rev range. I will try resetting the ECU, and getting 0.8mm spark plugs, if that doesn't work, I will be getting a Power FC & dyno tune soon, so hopefully that will will fix it. I also need to get a EBC, to make sure my car is running the correct boost. I think I will set it for 8psi until I get the cooler. Thanks for your help Munna1.

The car is fairly quiet, and I didn't notice a popping noise at all when it hit the flat spot. I kind of felt and sounded like the clutch slipping, but I highly doubt that it would be the clutch.

Is there any reason why the flat spot does not happen in first gear, only in the other gears?

Thanks, I will give that a try, seems to be the easiest thing to check first, the car is getting serviced next week, so I will get some 0.8 plugs put in then.

I suspect that the boost has been raised in its previous life. I have read in a few places that if the boost is raised, then you need 0.8mm spark plugs, which is why I asked. I will be getting a full service done next week, so hopefully that will shed some light. mr_crust: how sure are you that the coil packs would be the problem? The Skylines run 6 coils don't they? I don't understand how a car with 6 coils could have a flat spot consistantly in the same place. I don't really want to start guessing what might be the problem and spending heaps of money replacing stuff that doesn't need to be replaced. I should also mention that it does not have a flat spot in first gear, not sure if that makes any difference.

Where is the switch for the foggies on the R33 Series 2 GTS-T? I have only had the car for one day, and haven't had much chance to play with switches yet, but I figured I would ask since the topic came up.

What is the fix? Retune, replace the coil packs? spark plugs & leads?

I picked up my R33 Series II GTS-T last night, I noticed it has a flat spot between 3000 - 4000rpm, but goes like a rocket after 4000. What would cause this? How can I fix it? As far as I know, the car is running factory boost, but I am not 100% sure on that. I read that disconnecting the factory 2 stage boost setup can cause a flat spot, could this be it? BTW, I did a search, but could not find anything related to this topic. Any help would be appreciated.

I have the clicking problem as well when I have the aircon on, and when the car first starts up, and when the turbo timer kicks in. Mine has an aftermarket headunit as well, so when I change the headunit, I will look at the vents to work out what the problem is.

Thanks Munna1, that is very helpful. I noticed tonight that my car has a flat-spot between about 3000-4000 rpm. What would cause this? As far as I am aware the car is running factory boost, but I don't know for sure...

Thanks mate, I might let a dyno run decide what to do next, if everything looks ok, then I think I will bump the boost up to 10psi, and add the FMIC, then get the computer a little later. If the tune looks out when the dyno run is done, I will get the computer and re-tune. Thanks guys. Sorry for all the questions, I am new at this....

Would I be better off spending my money on a good intercooler or a Power FC computer and dyno tune? Which would give better gains for the money for a basically stock engine (10psi, exhaust & filter)? I will be getting both at some stage, but which would be better to get first?

That is what I like to hear. I want to avoid spending too much money on the car, I have spent way too much money on cars in the last couple of years. I want to try to get the best gains I can with the basic bolt-on mods. I don't want to go to the trouble of changing the turbo, internals, upgrade the fuel system etc, I just want the best gains I can get for a basically "standard" car.

Ok, so it looks like I need a little more work for 200rwkw. As I said, I am more concerned with reliablity than performance, so I don't want to go too stupid. What sort of power would you expect from 3" exhaust, filter, FMIC, 10psi, dyno tuned on standard turbo and computer?

OK, so 10 psi is a better idea, no worries. I am not as concerned about performance as I am worried about reliability. I don't want to do anything to jeopardise the reliability of the engine.

Cool, so 180-200rwkw is achievable on 12psi with exhaust, intercooler and tune (assuming the tuner knows what they are doing)? Sounds good to me. I didn't notice the boost guage on the instrument cluster, I will have a look when I pick the car up. I have a unit converter to work out the psi figure. Thanks guys.

Hey all, I am relatively new to the Skyline & turbo scene (usually found playing with V8 Commodores) - but I have just bought a nice black R33 GTS-T - 1996 model. I just a couple of qustions about them: 1. How much boost does a GTS-T run standard? I don't have a boost guage so I am wondering if anyone knows off-hand. 2. How much boost is a good, safe level to increase to - maybe 12psi? 3. In the next few weeks I am looking at adding FMIC, maybe a bit more boost, and do a dyno tune. The car already has 3" turbo back exhaust & HKS pod-filter. I am hoping for around 180-200rwkw, what else do I need to do? Thanks guys, I will post up some pics when I pick the car up next week. Cheers.

I knew that the GTR gearboxes were good, but I didn't realise that they would put up with that sort of abuse. It is pretty common for AWD cars to have gearbox issues - mostly in WRXs, Evos, GTiR, Familia etc, the GTR was designed for racing so I guess it makes sense to have a pretty good gearbox...

Unfortunately, I can't get the GTR just yet (though I desperately wish i could), I need to pay some bills first, so i am doing some homework. Modding an RB26 is not so different from a V8, the RB26 is cheaper to about 350rwhp, but once you get to the point where you are replacing 2 turbos and rebuilding the engine with forged internals, the costs are very simiar and the power gains are very similar. But I agree that the Commodore would have trouble keeping up with a GTR simply because of traction issues. But, like I said, they are different engines, making power in different ways, and they don't really need in-depth analysis here. I am not overly fusses on power figures either, the ET and MPH figures are the ones that tell the story, but the HP figures can be a good guideline when building the engine so you know where you are headed, especially when you are on a budget and are treading a line of a nicely modified engine and going too far. Thanks for the help mate.

Just about any reputable bodykit manufacturer will make a GTR or 400R style front bar to fit a GTST. You should not have to change the guards to fit it. It would be kind of pointless making an aftermarket GTR front bar only to suit the GTR....

Yes, but the commodore is naturally aspirated, where the GTR has 2 turbos making its power. In fact, the Holden V8 (not the stupid LS1) is not so different to an RB26 in terms of modification potential, they are both great engines, but make their power in different ways. Anyway, I didn't come here to discuss the virtues of GTRs vs Commodores. Swapping the turbos does make sense, but it is an expense I wasn't really planning to outlay. It sounds like 350rwhp and low 12s or high 11s is a pretty good target for a relatively stock GTR. Ok, I think I have a plan sorted now. Step 1: Find the right car to start playing with......

Hope it goes well, mid 12s should be a walk in the park with 250rwkw in a GTR. I know several Commodores with around 300rwhp (225rwkw) that run high 12s, so I reckon a GTR would be better again. Let me know how it goes.