Quinny

Yes the dyno graphs were on Pump fuel (explained above). The 4 second passes are not done on pump fuel, but there aren't too many cars running quicker than 9s on pump. The 4 second cars I was referring to is Top Fuel Dragsters, they run 4s with a blown big-block V8 (around 600ci from memory) and make about 7000hp.

Even if the clutch was not rated for the power of the car, I wouldn't think it would shred the clutch like that. I have seen clutches explode from being driven in stupid ways, my clutch was FUBAR when I pulled it out, but I have never seen a clutch do that. I reckon it is either a defective clutch plate or not put in properly.

Yes, the 1200hp one is TRYHRD from Summernats this year. Both Brett Waine and Eddy Tassone have made higher figures, but I don't have a photo of those. All Summernats Horsepower Heroes cars must run pump fuel (not sure about the Optimax being the control fuel - i thought it was just any pump fuel). Brett Waine holds the unofficial world record for highest HP on pump fuel - 1470.8rwhp. Another interesting thing is that Summernats only has categories for NA small block, FI small block or NA big block. No FI big block. Imagine a twin turbo big block..... Nice.... I have a mate with a Monaro that would like to talk to anyone who reckons that turbocharging is better than V8s. His Monaro ran 9.4 before the new motor, hunting low 8s, fully street driven with the new motor.

No, really, they do.

Price drop - $18000. This car is gorgeous. Fast and sexy. It has a brand new clutch and 3 years warranty. What more could you want? May consider trade for car worth ~$8000-10000 + cash.

I was under the impression that Optimax was actually 99RON. I remember reading something about it a while back, it is the highest octane fuel available (until they released Extreme - 100RON). Also, the V8 Supercars use Optimax, so it can't be that bad, I have used all 4 types of Hi-Octane Premium, and I am buggered if I can tell the difference.

Just further to my previous post, here is a dyno sheet for a Naturally Aspirated V8. Can't say I have ever seen a dyno sheet from a Skyline look like this. By the way, I also drive an R33, so I think I am entitled to an unbiased opinion.

Slightly on a different track, but I have a book called "How to rebuild and hotrod a Holden V8". I know it isn't turbocharging, but it goes through all the models of Holden V8 through the years, and step by step how to pull the engine apart and rebuild it.

As a V8 driver myself, I have to disagree, but here is not really the place to argue about V8s vs Turbos. When someone gets a 4 or 6 cyl to run a 4 second pass, then we can argue that there is a replacement for cubic displacement.... All I can say is what happens when you turbocharge a V8......? This....

I did the clutch in my R33 a couple of weeks ago, mine looked worse than that. I wish had kept it now to get some photos. I should see if my mate got any photos of the clutch in his Pulsar, it exploded into lots of little pieces.

I have been thinking about few things I might be able to do to make my car more secure, I think I might put on a couple of kill switches separate to the alarm, and an internal siren might make some difference. Or, I reckon one of these could be the go.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I have been tempted to sell the car after only having it for 6 weeks, but I don't really want to, I am just so worried about something happening to it.

Here is a chop of my personal favourite, Simmons FR18.

Car: 1996 R33 Series 2 Coupe Colour: Black Trans: 5 speed manual Mileage: 73000kms Rego: May 2007 Regular features: - Power steering - Power windows - Power mirrors - Limited slip diff - Factory body kit - Central Locking Other stuff: - Turbo back exhaust system - 3" from turbo to cat, Catco cat, 3.5" cat back with HKS cannon muffler - HKS pod filter - Brand new Exedy heavy duty clutch - 17" SSR wheels with good tyres - Lowered suspension - Pioneer CD/MP3/WMA player - Braided brake lines - Alarm System - 3 year warranty I have only had this car for a couple of weeks, it is a fantastic car, fast, sleek and sexy, a beautiful car to drive. Reason for sale is that I can't afford the insurance and I don't want to risk something happening to it. Attached is a pic, click link in my signature for more pics. Price: $19000 negotiable. Email: [email protected] Phone: 0411174831 or PM if you are interested.

You need Adobe Photoshop to do the images properly, Paint is pretty useless for doing chops. Check out the link Topaz posted, that is a good start to car modifying, but it is very difficult to master. I can do some PS work, but I am still pretty crap at it, some people do some amazing things which I have no idea about.

Here is a link, I remember reading it somewhere else too, but can't remember where. http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/5

I don't think that Splitfires is really considered as a power mod, it is really just insurance against coil-pack problems which seem to plague Skylines. Although they do claim more power in the top end. Split fires are about $580, not $1k.

The thrustbearing is on the input shaft of your gearbox. It would be a reasonablly big job to do yourself, unless you have the right tools (like access to a hoist). It should go away by itself, but if it doesn't go away, then you may need to have a look at it, probably just needs a little grease.

Quick question for GT4 gurus. In the professional events, the last race (GT World Championship or something like that), just wondering if anyone has finished that event and what car they used. I have tried it with the Toyota Minolta 88-V Race Car, with about 1150hp, but my biggest problem is that my tyres just don't last, even with Super Hard tyres on. If you pit, you lose, if you don't the tyres are screwed and you lose anyway. The race I have the most problems with is the Hong Kong track (hate that track). Any tips?

Thrustbearing. I did my clutch in my R33 2 weeks ago, and I had the screeching sound when I had my foot on the clutch, took it for a spin around the block (a rather 'spirited' spin), by the time I got back, the noise was gone, never to be heard from again. I think it is just the new thrustbearing wearing in against the clutch plate.

I don't think your target of 350bhp will be a problem for the ARC. Apparently the splitfire coils are the way to go, not cheap though, I will be upgrading to these pretty soon.

This is why I chose an ARC Turn Flow cooler, not only is ARC a good brand, the cooler also uses the stock piping. Instead of a pipe going through the chassis on the drivers side, the pipe goes back under the cooler to the standard pipe to the throttlebody. Here is a pic of what I mean, the R33 kit is top left.

I will be using an ARC 470x260mm "turn-flow" intercooler, Power FC, GCG Hi-flow at 14-15psi and 3" into 3.5" exhaust. I will also be getting a tune up with new plugs, coils, fluids etc. Hopefully I can obtain a result similar to yours. Did you ever do a quarter mile with your Stage 1 setup?

Thanks mate, that is good info. The stuff you have listed here is pretty much what I had in mind. I thought of changing the plenum, but not sure if it really helps much at this level. The other difference really is I will be using Power FC. From the dyno sheet looks like you were using about 1 bar boost, which is where mine will be. Did you make this on the stock fuel system?

I know how you feel, mine went a week after I got it too. alphanumeric: If you have budgeted $400 to put the clutch in, it will probably go over, but not by much. My mechanic quoted me 5 hours, which was $400, but that was an estimate, could be a little more or less, depending on how good your mech is at doing them. The cost of the flywheel machining will probably put it over, but it will be close. If you are doing the rear main as well, your budget will explode big time.