Quinny

Some of those rims won't photoshop very well as they are on a different angle to the car pic. you can use the transform tool in PS to correct it, but it doesn't always work perfectly. Personally, I reckon the SA-70 will look best, I will do a couple of chops tonight.

Most likely over budget - but I should be used to that by now. Power FC ARC Turn-Flow FMIC EBC I am undecided yet if I should get a hi-flow. I could get a GCG one, but that would blow the budget completely, or I could get a Slide Performance one, but I am not sure about using a bush bearing turbo. I will either: 1: get the above mods and a GCG hi-flow. Get as much power as i can with the standard fuel system then retune it later when I get a new pump & injectors 2: Get the above mods, maybe a Slide Performance hi-flow and spend the rest on giving the car a tune up (new coilpacks etc). I need to sell my Commodore first (hopefully soon), once I have the money I will make up my mind.

That pic is a bit better. Do you some idea of the rims you want? If you have a pic, post it up. Do you want 5 spoke, mesh style, tri-spoke? Give me something to work with here. Or I can just chop the drift-r's, Simmons FR or something.

I just grabbed a pic of a stock R33, it was actually one that was posted up in my photo thread, I thought it was yours... oops. Post up some decent pics of yours, I will do some more. Apologies to whoever owns that car....

Here you go mate. Slammed on some Drift-R's

Really? Sounds like a happy dyno, considering that a stock R33 puts out 187kw at the engine...

182rwkw is not stock. C'mon, out with it...

Not really having any problems with the car, had to replace the clutch after only having it for 2 weeks, which was a mission. Took us half a day to get the car apart and change the clutch, about 2 days to get the box back in, and about 2 hours to bolt everything else back up. The only other problems I have is that side skirts have come unstuck, which looks a little crap, but that should be pretty easy to fix, and also my passenger side headlight keeps getting water in it. The badge was not on the car when I bought it, so I take it the previous owner took it off. I probably would have removed it anyway.

I am surprised that is has taken so long. That would piss me off if I realised a flat spot like that.

Here is a couple more pics

Nah, I got it from a car yard on Parramatta Rd. I won't mention who because I don't have too many nice things to say about them. I also discovered my car has a turbo back exhaust - 3" from turbo to cat, Catco cat, 3.5" cat back into HKS cannon. It also has braided brake lines.

I have seen the ones on EBay, they are too small, from memory, 1:43 scale. Like the grey one a couple of posts above. I want one in 1:18 (preferably), or even 1:24 scale.

Based on what I have read, I think it looks like a viable alternative to a GCG hi-flow. As long as the oil lines etc are done properly, hopefully shouldn't have any problems. Slide: I will put my order in shortly mate.

I am looking at getting a hi-flow turbo, and have been looking at the GCG one, but this one has kindled my interest. I will be running Power Fc, ARC front mount and EBC, along with my 3" into 3.5" exhaust. I want to run up to 15 psi depending on the fuel system. I would be interested to see the results in a direct comparison between the two. I think if the bush bearing turbo can be reliable at 14-15 psi as a daily driver, then I think it is definitely worth considering.

Your car seems to run a little rich at the top end, the power curve seems to flatten out when the AFR drops below 12. Maybe that has something to do with it?

Really guys, we are talking about 2 mildly modified cars, on different dynos, there are so many inconsistencies here. The real benefits of an aftermarket computer probably won't be as evident until you start getting some serious HP. This is kind of going around in circles now.

MPH is a pretty good indicator of performance. Usually on the drag strip, MPH won't change a great deal, evn with a bad launch, missed gear etc. My stock 5.0L Commodore on my very first run at WSID ran 15.5 @ 93mph (bogged it down big time), then on my next run, I ran 15.0 @ 93mph. 93mph should be good for about 14.7, but it was the first time I ever raced on the strip. A busted LSD might be a problem though. You could organise to be at the same workshop on the same day for a dyno run, no inconsistencies then...

I reckon Mad and Paul should get out to a drag strip an settle this on the black-top.

Ok, I might get a new pump and reg, then see what the tuner can do. If I need new injectors, I will have to look into getting some.

The prices listed are for parts only, you need to add labour to that for fitting etc if you can't do the work yourself.

How far can you push the standard injectors? One post above says 200rwkw 'unless you get some fuel pressure into them'. Could you fit a different fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump to add extra fuel pressure (even as a temp fix)? I am thinking that I am going to buy the components I listed before, get the car tuned for whatever power I can get safely on the stock fuel system (even if it is only 180rwkw or so), then get the pump, regulator and injectors (if I need to), then retune with more boost for around 220rwkw or so. I can't believe that a set of 6 injectors costs like $1000. I got a set of Boch 30lb injectors for my Commodore (which is good for over 300rwkw), cost me $500 for a set of 8.

I was expecting the HKS to be more expensive than that. I don't suppose it would use the same exhaust? (I doubt it). I already have a good exhaust system. When you say that the hi-flow was laggy, how laggy is it? I have heard people saying it is pretty noisy, but haven't heard complaints of excess lag. I would be interested to see those results.

I agree that an aftermarket turbo would be better, however, the mods I listed will break the budget as it is, so I figured that the hi-flow might be better value for money on the budget. Seeing as it is the factory turbo with modified internals it can use all the factory bits and pieces, and you don't need to re-do the exhaust.

If you are building a 300rwkw engine, you can't skimp on anything. Ideally, if you want reliability, you should use forged internals. Judging by your last comment, my guess is your budget is around $7000. I am in a similar position, but my budget is around $5K. I have decided on the following: Power FC - $1000 Electronic Boost controller - $500 ARC Turn Flow FMIC - $1200 GCG Hi Flow turbo - $1950 Tune - $500 Also add Nismo injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure reg will add a little more. If I was in your position, I would go for the above or similar, add cams and a heavy duty clutch will part you with your money. I am only fairly new to turbo engines, but from what I have read, you could get around 250rwkw from these mods. Like I said, I am no expert, so others may feel differently, but that is my 2c.

Thanks 217/r33, there is quite a few people have different opinions on how much boost is safe, some people say 10 psi, some say as much as 14. Personally, I can't really afford to be fixing broken bits so I will be playing it safe with my cooler. I will also be using a EBC, so the boost should be pretty accurate. Now that I realised I don't need a new exhaust, so I will spend the money on getting the stock turbo hi-flowed. So my combo will be: Power FC Electronic Boost Controller ARC front mount 14psi or thereabouts I suppose I will need Nismo injectors, GTR fuel pump and new fuel pressure reg. I already have a good exhaust, HKS pod & HD clutch. Anything over 200rwkw would be good - 225rwkw (300hp) would be great. Anyway, I think I have the combo sorted, now I just need to sell my Commodore to get the cash for it..... Thanks for the help everyone.