tdan

X 2 for pics. I know this is an old thread, but pics would help out a heck of a lot!

Hey dude.... Any more updates with this build? Wanna see more progress on the build. BTW, I don't see this being very heavy. I assume the majority of the build will be done with fibreglass and a thin MDF frame. Tony

If they are the same size as the Series 1, you should have no dramas fittinf 6 to 6 1/2 inch speakers in the whole. You may need to modify the plastic thingy a little. Should help.

Hey All I am in need of the factory skins for my 33. I started a project with making my own custom doors and, well, I ran out of money. Now the project has ended, I plan on selling the car to try and recoup some costs. My only problem is, I need the factory skins. I am located in Mindarie, WA so I would prefer someone close by. I don't mind driving a bit to collect. Would prefer pick up also. If any one has the door skins for sale, hit me with a PM and we can get in touch to try and organise something. Cheers Tony

To all the haters out there, not every one buys a Skyline, let alone a GTR, because they want to race it. Some people just buy the car because they like the look of said vehicle. So, if you are not happy with the build this guy is doing, don't look at his post. It is as simple as that. Now for the build.... You are doing a great job dude, fromt he looks of things, you are going to have some nice cures and a very distinct shape to the install. Good luck with all the sanding once the 'glass has gone down though, the shapes are gonna hurt you. Also, you will find that fibreglass will cut a lot of the weight out of the install, so you will still have a fast GTR with only a little weight in the trunk. GOOD LUCK DUDE AND ENJOY.

If it is as simple as the siren being f&*ked, you can simply head off to jaycar and buy one of their universal sirens. Connect it up via the siren signal wire and bob's your uncle. If you don't know how/what you're doing, it may be a better idea to head off to a sparky and sort it that way.

OK! First things first. Who fitted it? If it was fitted by a qualified installer, go back to the shop it was fitted and get them to look at it. If you did it yourself, I think you may have made an error in your connections. I installed an alarm in the in-laws car and they had the same problem. After some investigation and research, Google is your friend, I found that the immobiliser relay was not connected properly. This may be your problem. But first, I would suggest you take it back to the shop where it was fitted, if that is the case. Good luck!

Hey dude...Just wondering if you still have the front door trims still available and how much?? With shipping to WA, 6030? Cheers

How much for just the front door skins? Both drivers and passenger side? Where are you located? Cheers Tony

Yes, that is one other set up you could use in this scenario. Both setups are good and will both sound equally as good. It does all mainly depend on the type of amp he is using and the types of sub/speakers. Again, based on the pictures the OP has posted, the amp being used has a built in crossover. This would mean that if he did use 3/4 for the sub and 1 & 2 for the front speakers, they could all be tuned separately. I have had this set up in my own cars many times before and they have sounded great for a basic set up. Each to their own I guess

Hey dude First things first. Based on the pics posted, you have a four channel amp. However, your HU only has one set of pre-outs. So to connect your amp up to your HU, you will need to get yourself some Y-connectors/splitters. What these do is turn a two channel HU into a four channel HU (in a sense really anyway). To get you started follow these simple steps: 1. connect the red and whites RCA plugs to the back of your HU. 2. connect one Y connector to the red plug and the other to the white plug. 3. plug the Y connectors into the amp. Matching white with white and red with red. Congrats, you have now given the amp a sound signal. Now to connect the remote wire to turn the amp on. 1. grab some 4mm wire from your local auto shop 2. on the back of your HU, there should be the remote wire for the amp. It should be blue in colour. If you're still unsure about which wire is which, the wiring diagram should be on the top (or bottom) of the HU. That will tell you which wire it is. 3. join this wire to the wire you bought from the shop and run it to the location of your amp. 4. connect it up to your amp. Congrats, you have given your amp a switch. Now when you trun your HU on, the amp will turn on. Connecting your sub now depends on how many subs you have and whether or not you want to run other speakers off the amp. The best way that I would suggest would be to bridge channels 3/4 to power your sub and use channels 1 and 2 to power your front speakers. You can use the on board crossover to tune the speakers and sub to whichever frequencies you want. Give that a go and see how it all ends up. Doing it that way, should work out to be the simplest and most effective method. If you have any dramas, post up and let us all know. Good luck Tony

Hi again The mods that I currently have are: 3 1/2" cat back exhaust (about to purchase a 3" dump pipe) Large FMIC Apexi Pod Filter Aftermarket Coil Packs GFB Boost Controller What makes me think that the turbo is going to die, is the fact that it has been in the car for 14 years now and I think that it is dirty as hell or on the way out. It still manages to boost at around 12PSI though. So I could be wrong. My other plan was to remove it and give it a massive clean and have it tested to see how bad, or how good, it really is. I was reading the workshop manual that I have and it hints at the point of black soot covering the rear bumper. Apparently it is caused by excessive carbon and sludge build up in the exhaust turbine. Which is why I was thinking of just cleaning it out. I was thinking about having the current turbo recon'd, but then my missus said to me that I may as well buy a new one.

My apologies, I must have described the whole situation very poorly. All I really want to do is buy a new turbo for my car. I'm not looking for power gains, nor am I looking to lose any power. From the research that I have done, mainly with Garrett Turbos, I have found that they do require for new oil and water lines. I basically want a new turbo to replace the one that I have. Just one that will bolt straight on with little or no modifications at all. I hope that makes a bit more sense now. Cheers

Hey All I have been searching for about 4 hours now. I think I went through nearly every topic posted on the entire website. Well, that may be a small exageration on my part. I am looking to upgrade/replace the turbo I currently have in my car and I want to know the quickest/easiest way of doing so. Also, the cheapest. What I want is a turbo that will just bolt straight on to the existing fittings and lines. I have no idea which one will do the job, I'm guessing someone out there will know exactly which one it is. My car is a 1995 R33 GTS-T. Please help, I think my turbo is about to die. Cheers Tony

Thanks for the replies guys. Firstly, I did bleed the system properly and the bleed valve is on correctly. So, there should be no air pockets in the system at all. Secondly, my car was overheating before the flush, collant change and thermostat removal. Well, according to the Autometer gauge it was. As I said in my original post, the water temp on the Autometer gauge reached 110C, but the factory gauge showed normal temp. I was also thinking that the probe for the Autometer gauge is faulty and it is now time for a new one. One thing I will be doing for sure is putting the thermostat back in to the system. Once that is in place, I will check the whole system again and bleed it through thoroughly. Then I'll see how things go. One question, what temperature rating would be the best to go for with regards to the thermostat? Thank you all again for your help and assistance. I'll let you know how things go once I put things back where they belong. Tony

Howdy Y'all I'm not sure if I am in the right section or not, but I will ask my question to see if anyone out there can help me out with the issue I am having. I currently own a '95 R33 GTS-T and as the title state, I am having cooling troubles. After having driven my car in peak hour traffic the other morning, I noticed the temperature of my Autometer gauge reach about 110 C. After seeing this, I looked at the factory gauge and it appeared to be normal operating temp. Kinda confused the hell out of me! Once I arrived at my destination, I turned the engine off and heard some sort of gurgling sound. I lifted up the bonnet of my car and saw all the water from the radiator being pumped into the overflow bottle. I watched it slowly fill up and sure enough, it did. Then to my surprise, the water began being sucked back into the radiator. That was what I found weird and confusing. I'm not sure if that is supposed to happen or not. I don't think so. About a week ago, I gave the whole cooling system a flush and a clean with some cleaner bought from super cheap. Once that all went through, I ran clean water through the system and waited for it to run clear. Which it did. I also removed the thermostat, after being recommended to do so by a mechanic. Something about not needing them in areas like this. No snow in WA. My main problem is that I don't know if my car is behaving normal, or if it has some major problems with the cooling system that need to be fixed before next summer. I am lost with what to do next as I don't want it to heat up that much that something goes bang and I'm up for a new engine, or worse a new car. If anyone could help me out with advice, I would really appreciate it. And if you need more info, just ask and you will receive. Thanks in advance. Tony

OK. I understand your predicament. Firstly, the connections that need to be made are: orange/white - connect to any light source in the car that comes on when you turn your headlights on. In my car, I spliced this wire into the wire that illuminates my cigarette lighter. What this does is when you turn your headlights on, the head unit display turns down a little so as it is not as bright when driving at night. Not 100% necessary, but it does the trick. For your antenna, I assume it is electric, you can utilise the blue/white wire coming out of the head unit. This is the same wire that turns your amplifier on, if you have one, but it can also be used to raise and lower your antenna. If you do the connections like that, you won't have any problems with anything and it will all work the way that it should. Just be sure to solder and cover all connections that are made. I hope this helps you out. Good luck Tony

I'm pretty sure it's all DIY stuff. There is a "contact us" link on the website. Click on that and shoo them a question. But in all honesty, it's not that hard to DIY carbon fibre. It just takes a little time and a lot of effort. Hope that helps.

Yeah it didn't take me long to figure out that Bunnings is a huge rip off. before I found these guys, I had to put it a special order with Bunnings to make sure they have the stuff in stock. Since I got hit with the customising bug, I have been going through heaps of the stuff.

I just thought that if the factory sensor is buggered it will be sending the wrong signal to the ECU. Then the ECU would not be correcting the A/F ratio which inturn the Autometer sensor is picking up the incorrect signal from the exhaust fumes. Does that make sense?

Cool, thanks for the hint. What I might do in the meantime is lift the bonnet and check the fuse that is connected to the probe and also the wiring. Maybe, just maybe, the fuse has gone and the reading is only just getting to the gauge. But I guess in that case, the probe would not give any reading at all. I think I'll just try a few things out and see what happens. Also, do you think that it could be the factory sensor? Could the fact that the factory sensor is faulty, if it is, that it is sending the ECU an icorrect signal and the Autometer sensor is picking that up. Maybe I should also look into having the factory sensor replaced. Well, time to try things out. Cheers.

Thanks for the reply. That is correct, it does work properly, then it dies off. Once it has gone off the "radar", it doesn't come back. Irregardless of whether I tromp it or not. The sensor is about 30-40cm from the turbo outlet. It is heated via the positive and negative wires when the engine is initially turned on (cold engine start), then it gets the heat from the exhaust. I am running the factory R33 GTS-T ECU and have been told by autometer tech-heads that the gauge cannot be connected to the ECU as it will receive the incorrect signal. So I have no idea what to do next. I thought maybe that the probe was dirty and I need to clean it with something, but it is a bugger to get at.

Hi all... I have an Autometer A/F gauge fitted to my car. It is connected to the exhaust via an Autometer A/F probe, so it is not coming off the factory sensor or the ECU. The problem I am having is that after driving the car for about 30 minutes (30 minutes constant driving) the A/F gauge displays no reading whatsoever. It just gradually fizzles from stoich. to lean and then goes off the gauge altogether. Just wondering if anyone knows what would be causing this? The gauge is wired up properly and all the connections are soldered and covered with heat shrink. I have no idea what the problem is and right now it's starting to give me the S*&TS Thanks for your help

Hi all... For all those out there who are looking for a wiring diagram to do some diy alarm installation, I think I may have found it. I was at work one night and I was searching for the same thing and I came across a suggestion made in a US forum. This is what was said "It is pretty basic Nissans of that year us or jdm are all pretty similar just get a diagram for a sentra of similar year and compare,if all else fails a good dvm or test lamp should do the trick.Only problem ar going to be the door locks." I have downloaded said diagram, but have not yet had a chance to check it out to match the colours of the wires. I will post it up here for anyone else who wants to check it out and see if it helps them. Constant 12V+ - Green Ignition Switch Harness Starter - Black/White Ignition Switch Harness Ignition - Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 - Black/Green Ignition Switch Harness Cold Start Wire Accessory - Red Ignition Switch Harness Tach - Green (AC) Distributor or Blue/Orange Position 3 Center Console Brake Switch - Red/Green Brake Switch Trunk Release - Red/Black Dots (-) Trunk Light Trunk Pin - Red (-) Trunk Light Head Lamp - Red/Yellow L And Red/Blue R at Light Switch Hood Pin n/a Factory Disarm Steering C N/a Door Trigger - Red/White (-) Above Driver's Kick Yellow Connector Door Lock - Gray (-) Door Lock Module to right of Column Door Unlock - Purple (-) Horn Wire - Green/White (-) Steering Column Windows Up - LF=Blue/Red, RF=Blue/Red Windows Down - LF=Blue/Black, RF=Blue/Black PLEASE NOTE: THIS IS NOT 100% CONFIRMED. ONLY USE THIS AS A GUIDE. I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE IF SOMETHING BLOWS UP IN YOUR CAR. And if anyone can prove me wrong with this wiring layout, let me know and I won't use it. Cheers and enjoy

Hi All For all those folks out there in WA who were looking for a fibreglass supplier and maybe even some carbon fibre sheeting for all their fabrication needs, I have found a shop in Osborne Park that supply such items. Here is the link Kirkside Products Click on that and you can get an overview of all the items that they stock there. You will still need to contact them, or go in and see them regarding prices, but to me, it works out a lot cheaper that buying the stuff from Bunnings evry 2-3 days. Good luck with your projects.