R34GT-t_07

1) maybe a stupid question, but how reliable are the R34s from 1998-2002? I'm just looking at a daily driver with a decent pace They r great cars and very reliable i've had mine for 5 yrs now and i havent had any probs apart from having to change the coils the main issue with them is that the standard coils which r said to go out at around 60- 70,000 KM but my ones lasted way beyond that. 2) are parts for these cars expensive compared to non-imports? this really depends on which parts there a lots of after-market parts avaliable some r expensive and some r not, they r not cheeper then holden/ford parts but r less then most euro/japanese non imports 3) when I'm about to buy one from a personal seller, who would be a reliable mechanic/service in sydney who could inspect the car mechanically? this i cannot answer as am from melb 4) how much petrol does a full tank need, and roughly how much km's do you get on a full tank, for just everyday inner city driving im my R34 skyline Manuel it says that its a 65 ltr tank but when its one the empty line and i go to fill it up i can only manage 52 ltrs which leads me to believe that the reserve tank is about 10-15 ltrs as for how many Kms per ltr that varies if u have any mods on the car, if the car is completely standard and in good condition than u should be getting anywhere from 400-500 per 100 kms thats provided u drive it sensibly and keeping it off boost. if the car has performance mods on it or if it runs a bit rich then anywhere from 300-400 kms. hope this helps mate and to the the WANKER who said let the flaming begun and do a search the guy is new to this SO IF U DONT HAVE ANYTHING HELPFUL TO SAY OR U CANT ANSWER THE QUESTION DONT SAY ANYTHING AT ALL.

if their both non turbo go the s15 it has the same power as the turbo and is lighter then the 33 and of course newer better looking but i suggest u go test drive both and see how u feel in each of them.

what type of FMIC do u have that could be causing problems, a friend of mine had similar problem as u and it turned out that the FMIC that he had was not up to the task of holding 250 at the rears and was making the engine ping do to lack of air-flow. hope this helps.

not sure if they are all rising rate but am using a TOMMI which is a rising rate, am verry happy with it my tuner recomended it to me, he also said that the nismo ones are very good as well. hope this helps.

the differences are its bigger,newer and much better airflow and it can handle more power the the 32, its good for 200-210 KATW my suggestion to u would be to go with the 34 SMIC. until u can get a FMIC hope this helps.

Station Rd in deer park is a 70KM/h road not 60. still what a f**king idiot

how much boost r ru running it could be that its to much for the for the standard ECU and not enough fuel getting to motor also have u checked ur spark plugs. one more thing do u have standard Air flow meter if not then thats ur problem the std ecu doesnt recognise aftermarket AFM's like a Z32 or any of the other ones. hope this helps.

to the moderators can u please delete this post as the car is no longer for sale. thank u

also forgot to mention Modz: Exedy heavy duty clutch 4 months old/hasnt been abused

For SALE my R34 GTT 1998 coup 5spd Manual Reason: Just bought a new car and the car is just sitting at home. Registerd until 12 Aug 2009 Km: 130000Km Mods: hybrid FMIC 600 X 300 3'' cat-back exaust TURBO HI-flow changed from from bushel to Ball-bearing and steal wheel the turbo is good for 290 kw atw amount paid for hi-flow is $2800 Greaddy Pro FEC B-specII boost controler Greaddy Turbo Timer the car makes 220.5 Kw atw on 9 psi POD filter air intake the car comes with the standard cooler and a (Drift diggital boost guage value $140 brand new still in box not instaled) Wheels 18" avanti 5 spoke lightwaight racing rims Tyers Hankook K 104 sports 265 rear and 235 front The car is in very good nic runs perfectly I've owned the car for 4 year and have never had a problem with it serviced every 5000Km during summer every 2500Km with MOTUL full synthetic oil. the car has never been in any major accident. regretfull sale but must be done on the count of new car. Contact details anytime DINO MOB: 0432179279 home: 90042505

' Ye thats true. 300kwatw is the safe mark this is what i was told by several tuners here in VIC how ever one of the tuners had tuned an r34 gtt to just over 340 @ the rears on stock internals.

An R34 RB25 det neo can take 300 KWATW before the internals need to be done an R33 can take around 250-270 before the internals need changing. it all depends on the turbo ur getting some turbos can produce 220 at the rears on only 9 PSI like mine which is An r34 turbo which has been changed from busshel to ball-bering and hi-flow.

why dont u try taking of the TC (Traction Controle) its got nothing to do with the ABS and if u still cant do it then ur just to retarded.

R34 GT-T 3'' catback Hybrid FMIC POD FILTER R34 turbo changed from bushell to ball bearing and hi-flow standard fuel pump Greddy ProFEC B-spec II controler 206.3 KWatw on 7psi 220.5 KWatw on 9psi

thts the dumbest thing that u could do as it will f**k up ur car the way that it makes the flutter sound is by instead of releasing the air thro the blow-off it sends it back into the turbo and that will make ur car run lean u'll get shit fuel consumption and constant staling. if u want the noise then get a screamer pipe any of the tuning shops will be able to do it its a lot better then blocking of ur blow-off.

it could be ur Throttle-body if its cutting out when u step on the accelerator. also check ur coilpacks and ur fuel preassure ur fuel filter could be clogged up.

Hmm that has to be the dumest vid i have ever seen.......

the Mitsubishi dealership in Mitcham VIC do when u buy an evo from them their warranty covers for the track days that they hold I think they hold about 4 per year in VIC which is very good. Nissan should do the same instead of selling a car with all this hype and then telling u u have to drive it like a grandma so as u dont void the warranty.

very simply everything that u do in the car is recorded in the cars computer. and am sure Nissan wil have some of its people at the local tracks

A v6 can produce more power then a strait 6 when modefied but the the strait 6 can hold power better then the v6 Example: Strait6 500hp V6 500hp the v6 would crack faster then the strait 6 would under havy driving.

u r a f**king idiot if u think that an r33 has better aerodynamics then an r34 then ur just a retard!!!!!!!

i am going to take a stab in the dark and say that its ur throthll boddy..

dont even bother my mate tryed it with an RS4 they organised a test drive and when he rocked up they asked for his creditcard and said that he has to have a minimum of $10000 limit on it. JUST THINK OF THIS AS WELL WHAT IF U WERE TO DAMAGE THE CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT WOULD U DO THEN....?

It has the N1 racing engen that is the main difference

if u were to get a havy duty clutch it wont damage anything in your car but if u were to get a brasbutton clutch then u could pop ur box unles ur car is extreamly moded. normal hevy duty wont do any damage