Sime

I had to drill my homemade one out a bit to let more air through. Now I can adjust between 7 and 15 psi. It hits 12 psi at about 3500rpm and stays on it all the way to the redline.

My mechanics apprentice has King Springs on standard shocks on his R33 and says it is worse than the standard springs. It handles like a bag of @#$*. I've put Pedders springs on mine and am quite happy with them. I will eventually get new shocks though. The stiffer springs don't quite match the standard shocks properly.

I've used an irrigation valve from Bunnings 3 for $4 and have the same result as Grim. No spiking either. Sounds dodgy, but seems to do the job.

East Coast Auto Spares on the corner of North Rd and East Bounadry Rd, Murrumbeena have the white paint you're looking for. It was about $10. I can't remember the name of the colour but they can look up the code on their computer.

Thanks Dremen I guess all 3 of your points could apply. I have a feeling the plugs are cheap and nasty so that may part of the problem. I'm getting it put on a dyno this weekend so hopefully my mechanic can have a play around and sort out the problem. It really felt like something was holding the car back, then it would surge forward then back off again and so on. It's nice to get some opinions before a mechanic gives his.

Yesterday I took a nice leasurely sprint through the Dandenongs. A lot of fun and I highly recommend it. Just make sure you don't get carried away! Any way, after about 10 minutes of giving my car a hard time, I noticed the power really started to drop off and the power delivery wasn't as smooth as normal. Once I let the car cool down a bit it was fine which makes me think it's because the turbo heats up and pushes hotter air in but I wouldn't have expected such a big change in the cars behaviour. Has anybody else had this problem? I have a stock GTS t and am running 12psi.

I've been told that the 3rd immobiliser, used to cut out the fuel pump has caused problems in the past when cars break down which is why most manufacturers don't make them any more. Not sure exactly what the problem is. I only got the 3rd one for insurance reasons. I assume most remote start systems have the option of the gear lockout. The viper does but it doesn't fit in the Skyline. All it does is stops the remote start from working if it is in gear.

I have the smaller autometer gauge in my vent. My brother has the larger one and there's no chance it will fit.

If it's an R33 You need to remove the entire dash trim that goes around the stereo/climate control, across the steering wheel. Remove ash tray, 2 screws in there. Remove trim around gear stick (just lift up at the drink holder end), 3 screws at bottom of trim under stereo. The entire piece then clips off all the way to the right vent. You need to pull it out far enough to fit a short screw driver in. The vent is a separate bit held on with 2 screws and a clip. It's pretty easy and there's no damage. By the way, the gauge is awesome there!!

I'm not sure yet. I was thinking some fome. Anything softish to stop the the trim vibrating against the metal door.

You should run your speakers off an amp. Head units don't give out enough power and can actually damage your speakers. I don't know much about sound deadening except it's expensive if you buy the real thing. I don't know how good the alternatives are. (Anyone else out there know?) Speakers took less than an hour. That doesn't include installing the amp. Once you've figured out the first door, the second one will only take a couple of minutes to get off. You'll need a drill to screw in the speakers as you'll have to create the holes in the plastic ring. I just used self tappers rather than drilling a hole first.

I've just got the tweeters on the dash next to the window facing up. It's easy to run the wiring from there between the dash and the A pillar. They're not the optimal position for sound quality as they aren't pointing at you and the sound supposedly bounces off the front window. Unless you've got a very good ear, you won't notice the difference. The problem is they are visible from the outside. You could always put a Maccas drive through sticker there to hide them. The other one is hidden behind the reg sticker. I thought about the mirror plate but decided I couldn't do a neat job of it there. As for sound deadening, that's on the cards. My speakers sound awesome at the moment but I do get a bit of rattle as the door trim vibrates against the door.

Hi guys I just installed some Kicker 6.5 splits in mine. Very Easy and hardly worth paying a pro for. The door trims aren't complicated. There are 3 screws along the bottom of each door. One screw in the bottom of the door handle (hole). The rim around the door lever just clips off (take care). The power windows switches come off in one bit and are just clipped in. On the passenger side there are 2 screws holding the handle in. Remove the cover on the bottom one. The top one is under the power window switch which will just unclip with a screw driver. Then just lift the door trim up. The speakers can be mounted to the black plastic ring which is stuck on the factory speakers. No need for any MDF. As for the wires, pull back the rubber seal along side the dash and you will see a hole even with the bottom of dash. Run your wires through there and into the door. Make sure you have enough slack wire so the door can open fully but not too much as it will get caught in the window mechanism. Hope this helps.