BlackRBS13

I dont want to thread jack but what is good static compression on a stock r33 rb26. Right now my compression is about 130 across all cylinders. seems low and was about 155 a year and a half ago.

If you know someone who can weld you could make your own piping for cheap. I cut all my own pipes and had them welded by a friend. I ordered a generic 3" aluminum kit off ebay. total final cost of usd100.

I will post a dyno sheet when if i can get ahold of one. Also what should the stock wastegate boost pressure be for the stock turbos? my car is boosting between 15 and 18psi. seems like that is higher than it should be.

Just wondering what the factory fuel pressure is on an r33 rb26. Basically I want to know because I just bought an aeromotive unit and I want to set it to the factory settings for now. any good advice on this would be helpful thanks.

My vote is going with something that is not ceramic shaft/turbine wheel. Basically I would stay away from another stock turbo. I would go for GT30r or even just a 28 if you are trying to keep it relatively cheap. Not too much modification would be required for either of those if ya stayed with an internal gate.

From my understanding -7 and -5 are the last digits in the part numbers and are both gt2860r. Disco Potato was basically the first turbo in the GT series which was created because of the success of this turbo. Also I dont believe that an S15 turbo could be a gt series turbo because GT series did not even come out until after s15 had been in production at least a few years. I am pretty sure the s15 turbo is just a strait ball bearing T series. T series = old tech. GT series = new tech. As far as whether the GT28r's will bolt up I would say yes with the reservation that you may need to swap in a couple R34 oil drain fittings. On garretts website it says the 2860s (-5 and -7) will bolt directly onto an R34 gtr. As far as the inlet on the compressor side they do have the same 2 bolt threaded holes as a 33. I think that rb26s13 is refering to gt2871r's and gt2876r's when he says they do not have the threaded holes because they do not One thing is that the 2860s are the only gt28r's that do bolt up. the 2871s and 2876s will not bolt up. From my understanding 2860s are essentially N1 turbos using slightly newer technology. Here is a link to the -5 on garretts website. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm

So the stock injectors should be good enough to keep up with the 15psi? Also is anyone sure what the boost is without the boost restrictor on a GTR? My car is swapped so I am not positive that the turbos are stock, since i got the motor with 30k on it. though I am pretty sure cause they appear to be stock. Also yes it is a stock computer. Fuel pump is a walbro 255lph so I would think it would be fine. I am gonna get it back on the dyno in a couple weeks and take another look at the afr.

I would run less boost but I am already running at just the wastegate spring pressure. No real way I can see to limit it below that.

How dangerous is it to have that spike at 12.9? Is it at serious risk of melting a piston or something else? Just wondering if I should be really hesitant to go WOT.

Alright I was just wondering what is the leanest afr you guys would consider safe. Basically I have a stock rb26 with no boost restrictor, exhaust and a FMIC, so the boost is around 15psi. had the car on a dyno and the afr ratio was mostly in the high 11s and low 12s but spiked at about 12.9. Is this getting pretty dangerously lean? Thanks for any help. Also what AFR would you recommend tuning to when I get PFC?

Could someone explain to me how the boost restrictor works? Also if you are not running the boost restrictor the motor will boost about 1 bar correct?

Just wondering what you mean by boost restrictor? Also wondering what that "PCM valve" is. I thought that valve was the factory boost control solenoid. The reason I ask is because I am not running it anymore and it seems like my 26 is overboosting. It will easily boost past 14 psi and I dont know where it would stop since I have been taking it easy since i noticed it. Just wondering if there is any connection or if one or both of my wastegates is just messed up. Not trying to thread jack just trying to get some info. Any help would be great.

Any ideas besides the turbos? I had them looked at by a turbo shop here in the states and they said both turbos looked good. Just wondering if there are any other possibilities to check out. Part of me still thinks that it is the turbine half of one of the turbos leaking but I want to check out all possibilities before spending money to rebuild them.

I have an r33 rb26 with stock twins. when my car heats up it starts smoking quite a bit. it is much worse under boost. Compression is about 145-150 psi across all cylinders. the motor pulls good vacuum. Not sure what the problem is so I am looking for suggestions.

Cant get them from nissan really or anywhere else since I am in the US. But thanks for the info anyway.

I have an rb26 with a 25 tranny and I need to buy the 4 bolts for the bell housing. Does anyone know what size they are? Also just out of curiosity are the bolts the same for all RB's? Any help would be great thanks.

Alright so i will be getting an r33 rb26 with a pull type clutch on it. And I will be using the push type rb25 tranny. Is there any way to convert the clutch that will come on the motor to work with the tranny. I basically am looking for the cheapest solution possible right now. In the future I plan to run an OS Giken, Nismo, or Exedy but for now I need a cheap solution. So what is a simple solution preferably a way to use the clutch I have now with the rb25 tranny aka a way to convert the pull clutch to a push. Thanks guys.

does rb25 clutch bolt to the rb26? i mean if it does then that makes the solution simple.

Alright I have an s13 which I am currently swapping an r33 rb26 into and I will be running the rb25 tranny. I am asking if I should use an r32 gtr clutch since the r33 clutch is pull type and the r32 would be push type. Basically which clutch do I need r32, r33 Rb26, or rb25 clutch. Any info on which one to use would be great. thanks guys.

thanks. yeah i figured that was basically how they were plumbed. I may be running the gtrs or possibly a couple of blitz units. Not sure yet but just wanted to make sure I set it up correctly.

Thanks. are they plumbed back before or after the mafs (afms)?

I am looking for the r33 wiring diagrams. Also is there any difference at all between r32 and r33 gtr wiring? If anyone has the diagrams or knows where i can find them I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

I was just wondering how the stock gtr bov's are plumbed. are they located on the side of the intercooler near the throttle body or the other side near the turbos. Also do they resirculate one to each turbo or how is it set up? I am wondering cause I am plumbing BOVs for my swap in an s13 and it did not come with any ic or piping. Thanks for your help guys any and all info will be usefull.

Just like the title says basically I am wondering if it is possible to run a map sensor instead of my mafs with PFC. I am making a decision on engine management between AEM EMS and PFC and I know with AEM you can run a map and am wondering if you can do the same with PFC. Thanks.

I am doing the swap myself so when i get the motor I will be taking off the oil pan anyway since I need to use the rb25 unit. Is it possible to tell visually by just removing the oil pan? either way I will take pictures and post them up on here of the crank collar. Also I was wondering if the engine number I listed is exactly correct. Should the D be a 0? I had some trouble reading the hand writing of the guy who gave it to me.