topper

Not to be rude but the trouble with your first 2 paragraphs is this, From what ECR033 has said it appears that this problem is intermittent( even if it isnt we still dont learn anything from this), so when testing the current draw with a multimeter if the short is not on at the time of testing, the reading he gets will tell him nothing, if the short is there it tells us only what we already know, but not where the problem lays. We already know at some time the current draw is enough to blow the fuse, the difficult part is what is the cause? It may be a case of disconnect one at a time, all the accessories that feed off that fuse and drive the car for a while, a process of ellimination, not great but it may lead to a solution.

From my experience (over 25 years) as an Auto Elec, over 90% of short circuits, ie blowing fuses, is caused by people doing something, eg changing stereo, screwing a self tapper unknowingly thru wiring loom, connecting something incorrectly etc, the way wiring looms are run in general cause very few problems.. So the first thing I would be doing is thinking what has been done to the vehicle in the past few weeks, and start from there. I am afraid I don't have a wiring diagram to help you but hopfully this may trigger something in your memory and send you looking in the right direction. Cheers, Neil

Set the multimeter to amps dc, start at around a 10 amp range, disconnect the neg battery terminal and put one lead of meter to neg batt terminal and the other to the battery lead(the one you disconnected). With doors closed everything off you should have less than .2 of an amp drain. DO NOT try and start the vehicle or turn on any high load items whilst doing this test.

Justin, a fully charged battery should show 13.2 volts, engine not running and no load(6 cells times 2.2volts per cell) truth is you will rarely see that. Start your car, and at the battery you are looking for @ 13.8 - 14.5 volts at approx 2000rpm, if it reaches 15 volts or higher it is being overcharged, less than 13.0 volts poss crook alternator or possibly voltage drop between the alternator and battery(bad wiring). Take your car to an Auto Electrician and ask them to load test your battery. The other possibility is that something is draining your battery when the car and all accesories are tuned off, eg boot light staying on, glovebox light staying on, relay drawing power etc. Dont just go and by a battery add hoc, it may be a waste of money. Topper

I thought some people might be interested in this movie. It is @700 meg download so is only suitable for broadband connections, It covers mainly R33 R34 GTRs in England and Japan. Hope you enjoy. Oh and I hope this hasnt been posted before. Cheers, Topper. Link removed. If you want to see it, go out and buy it. Links to illegal downloads do not belong here.

First of all check all the lights, for each side, come on when you turn on the flashers. Some load sensing flasher cans will flash at an increased rate with a blown globe, others will not flash at all, ie the lights just stay on. If all your flasher lights are working the problem is more than likely a faulty flasher can. Don't go to a mechanic if you can't sort it yourself, go to an auto electrician. Cheers, Topper

Thanks a lot for such a fast response BBGTR Cheers, Topper

Would someone please check this for me ECR33131645 I have been looking for my first skyline for 2 months now and if this checks out I may have just found it. Thanks in advance Topper

What ever you do DO NOT hammer on your battery terminals, you run the risk of destroying the battery post seal, leading to corrosion. Please go to your local Auto Electrician and they will solder on a new pair,the correct size) for you. Cheers, Topper (26 years working as auto elec)