jrocket

Hey Al Yeah i thought that it was a fairly rare factory option bumper. It was on the car when i got it. One guy already offered me $400 for it. How much would you think it could be worth? But dunno it i gunna part with it. I like how its the only skyline around with that particular bumper. I got to a few cruises etc every now and then. Not sure when the next one is on. I will hav to come for sure. Might check the events section now that you mentioned it.

LOL dude its factory plastic this one is. Not cheap fibreglass one. Yeah i thought it was a bit ghey at first with the lights hanging over the bumper. But to be honest you dont really notice it at all when you just look at the car. That low down pic prob doesn't show it at its best. I had many people complement me on how good it looks with that bar. Meh its kinda grown on me.

Get a bumper like mine for your S1. Mine is meant for a series 2 or something GTR i think. Not 100% sure where it is from. This fits quite well i think and looks good.

Hmm well put the CAS back on the car last night. Previously a had been to a tuner to hav my car dynoed. My car has a modified ECU in it and was found to be runner very rich. This tuner tweaked the CAS to help a bit by advancing the timing slightly. The car seemed to go ok etc. Previously the car used to backfire and pop between gears as you would expect from a car running rich. After this CAS adjustment the pops etc seemed to stop. Car still running strong too. I marked this position of the CAS before removing it. When replacing the CAS last night i thought i might back the timing off a bit to make the sensor sit around the middle position of its adjustment range. This had been mentioned in other threads as being the standard spot. I took the car for a spin and now it just seems to want to back fire n pop again like previously. I am thinking i might just set the CAS back to the position the tuner put it at and see how it goes. This tuner only increased the timing to a little over center position in the advance direction. After the dyno run the A/F was still rich as hell even with the advance in timing(like 10+:1 ratio). I was told this was due to ECU probably having some crazy fuel/ignition map and would need to be remapped etc to fix. I hope to get the computer retuned and the car sorted out later this year. I will put the CAS back to where the tuner set it later on tonight (marked this position before removal). My question is, would it hurt to bump the timing up a little more. Currently about 3mm offset from the middle position. Maybe do 1 mm more. I know this prob bit dodgy without a dyno to check it on etc. Car had been performing very well with no evidence of pinging. What do you guys think. Am i cruising for a F!#k up?

Hmm i took the CAS sensor off last night and had a look at it. When i turn it over by hand it seems to feel smooth and has no sign of bearing failure. I tried to disasemble it to see what it looks like inside but it seemed to hard to remove the pin holding the fitting on the shaft on. So i just left it in tact. I think i might just try and find a cheap second hand one to put on it.

Water Pump also replaced when timing belt done. I replaced timing belt, water pump, tension pulley, idler pulley, cam oil seals, crank oil seal. Only thing i can think of is the CAS is buggered. Sounds buggered tho.

Hmm ok i will investigate this tonight. I am fairly sure all the parts are there tho. I took care to keep all parts together when doing the timing belt on the car.

I got my fibreglass from Bunnings Warehouse. But i think that boat places etc can sell it cheaper. Also you will use alot of resin. Get more than you think you need. I started it and thought i had enough and ran out. Such a pain in the ass too when you are in the middle of it all. My box still allows for easy access to the spare wheel. Reason i picked the drivers side of the boot to install the box was bacause the Jack is on the other side. Didn't want to make to impossible to get the jack out when i need it. I will be making a fake floor etc too soon. Might start that this week as a matter of fact

Hey all. Just wondering what you guys think. I was cleaning the valve that controls the idle of the car (R33 GTS-t) last night becuase it was starting to hunt while idling. As expected the AAC valve was choked up with crap. I cleaned this all up and put back on car and warmed it up n tweaked the idle. While reving the engine slowly i noticed this weird scrapping noise comming from the exhaust cam area. It sounded a bit like metal scraping etc. I think the engine used to do this when i first had it. I changed the timing belt not long ago and had the lifter covers off. The cams both looked fine etc and oil pressure is still good. When i increase the revs slightly i get this weird knocking/ticking noise. If i increase the revs it seems to stop and only return when i ease off on the revs again. I did the old screw driver trick and listened to various parts on the lifter covers and the engine. I think i have pinpointed the problem to the CAS sensor. While reving the car and listening to it, you can hear alot of noise comming from it. I am fairly sure the bearings are buggered in it. Has anyone else had this problem and what have they done? I would like to replace it but i am not sure if getting a second hand one would be a good idea. And a new one looks to be round $450. (ouch). Is it possible to disasemble and replace the bearings without too much hassle? I dunno how much longer i can use the car with this dodgy sensor? Also the car has done "135,000kms" Is it know for the CAS to fail around this kms? Any info would be great guys.

Hey All. Does anyone know the part number for the FRONT and REAR tie rod ends for a R33 GTS-T 1995 S1. Mine are shot and the guy at nissan ere has NFI. If i get the part number for him then maybe i will get more joy out of the nissan dealership. I am also considering aftermarket parts too. anyone suggest a good option? Any help appreciated.

Sorry bout the late reply. Yeah it was easy to take out of the boot once i made it. But at the same time i did design the box with ease of removal in mind. Therefore i didn't mold it in any way that would make hard to get out once the fibreglass was hard. I mean like dont mold it around the back of the framework of the boot making it impossible to remove LOL. But yeah dont need to be a scientist to work that one out. When it was hard i just grabbed onto both edges of the fibreglass and gave it a good old yank. It came out with the cardboard and all still attached to it. I then just pulled all the tap and cardboard off the fibreglass mold which was fairly easy. Ofcourse my cardboard mold did get distroyed. With the first few layers of the mold done i just worked on it on the bench putting more layers on it and shapping it etc. I think there is like a release wax or something that you can use also, which can help ya remove from boot etc. But yeah didn't care about the cardboard template so i just ripped it all out together. Cheers

God Dam. Now thats a great finish. Thats an unreal finish. Wish mine was like that Might do something like this in the future.

+1 For fatal beating. People like this just wont learn. Better to help everyone out by making sure they are unable to do this again.

He He yeah i am reasonably good at driving. Used to have paddock bombs etc so used to sliding round etc. I know for sure that i am a hell of alot better driver than most of the dumbasses out on our roads. I nearly get into an accident every month due to some dickhead that can't drive for shit. LOL there is one roadabout near my place that i nearly been cleaned up at about 5 times. Always when i am turning right at the road about i get people that don't look or give way. Last incident was only 2 wks ago when this guy come racing towards the roadabout in his 4WD towing a tandem trailer. I seen him comming as i turned right and could see he goin fairly fast. Sure enough he locked it up comming into the roadabout. I just stopped in the roadabout and waited for him to slide to a stop before continuing to turn right. I dunno what he was thinking. Dumbshit. Well thats just one of my many stories. I am sure you all have some.

Hey. Thx for the feedback. I am not entirely sure what way i am going to go yet. I can save for longer and get something more expensive etc but i just dont like the idea of smashing up a nice 10K + car. Meh i will prob get over that problem soon enough. I also have been thinking of the idea of getting a rolling shell and putting a rebuilt motor into it etc. All tho i guess once i muck around getting everything done to it i would prob have paid more anyways? Maybe i should just sit tight and save then see where things go. Thanks all

Hmm i seen quite a few r32's for sale for less than 10k and many 180sx's. I could afford a more expensive car but i dont really want one thats in the best body condition etc. I not worried bout that side of it. I hope to get something cheapish then build it up a bit into a toy for the track. I already got a large amount of tools to fix stuff etc. I would not be so worried about damaging it and not having it available for the next wk as i have my R33 to use and my current daily driver and my motorbike. So i should be right if something happened. I just looking for a good base to use and build on. I will be able to afford engine rebuild etc if something happened. Was just trying to find a shit box for under 10k.

Hmm yeah i would like an R33 but only looking at spending maybe 10k at the most on a car. I was thinking maybe of getting a R32 cos they would be a bit cheaper etc. I also would hate to smash up a good car that has good paint etc. So i thought older car would be ok cos it will have dints etc already. I guess if i have an older skyline i can always build the motor up better once it F!*ks up.

Hmm you have given me a bit to think about. I really like the styling of the R32 tho. Just not sure about the engine.

Hey all. I am wanting to get more into the track n drift scene in the near future and i am trying to decide on what car i should be looking at. I am prob goin to use the car as my daily most of the time, then take it to track days etc for a bit of fun. I have been looking at the following cars to use. - skyline r32 2ltr GTST - skyline r33 2.5 ltr GTST - silvia SR20 DET - 180sx SR20 DET - 200sx SR20 DET The car of choice needs to be reasonably fuel efficient etc. I would like a 4cyl car but i do like the 6cyl's charm I am just curious to know if a r32 gtst would be much more fuel hungry than a SR 20 engine? Which would give me better power output for drift or track stuff? The car will need to be registered and i will drive it around untill it gets canned then prob trailer it anyways to track days. Is it a stupid idea trying to combine a street car and track car. I would prefer it to be registered tho cos it will be far more use to me. Thanks

Damit. less chatting and more car torchin!!!!!! PS: better take some pics or vids.

LOL go and find some bum on the street n throw the keys to ur car at him n see if he will take it. Ya prob can't even give the car away now

'Snif' 'Snif' I smell insurance scam

Petrol and a match. Burn the car. its the only way to remove it for good.

LOL yeah same ere too. I thought who trying to get a high here. lol. If ya go to bunnings, they might be able to help ya out. then just nick down to ya local supermarket for some plastic bags. Then ya will be all set. PS: i take no responsibility for any death as a result of reading this